Garage air line plumbing options?

[747mopar]

Now that I'm getting back on dad's truck and doing the bodywork it's high priority to get the compressor out of the work area! Pretty sure it's going upstairs but when I do I have no choice but to start plumbing the lines. I know I absolutely do not want any black pipes but what to use. I've got a friend who plumbed his in copper which is a viable option but I'm really liking the looks of these kits you can buy nearly anywhere that use what looks like Pex tubing and push on fittings. The ultimate option would be the aluminum kits I can get through our air system supplier at work but ?????? It's basically thin wall tubing, you borrow the installation kit which consist of a jig for holesawing the holes true then you simply install clamp on fittings, really nice setup.

Anybody use the Pex kits? Any other suggestions?

2 other concerns are the temperature from being in an unheated area and vibrations that the compressor will transmit through the floor. For vibration I can throw an isolation mat or mounts under it? I am however unsure of the affects it may have pulling in air from an unheated area, I could plumb the intake down through the floor if need be?

 

[dla4567]

I used 3/8” soft copper. Easy to run and hide. Can be soldered, flared or compression fittings. A short piece of rubber line could be used as a vibration eliminator. Or a braided stainless vibration eliminator.

As far as vibration through the floor, have you considered hanging it?

 

[747mopar]

I used 3/8” soft copper. Easy to run and hide. Can be soldered, flared or compression fittings. A short piece of rubber line could be used as a vibration eliminator. Or a braided stainless vibration eliminator.

As far as vibration through the floor, have you considered hanging it?

Haven't considered hanging it but wouldn't that move the vibration from the floor to the ceiling? The ceiling upstairs will be metal.

I do like the idea of copper but holy cow has it went through the rough lately! My only concern using the kit I posted is neatness, you would almost have to use tons of fasteners and have a board everywhere you ran it to fasten to to keep it straight and neat.

 

[dla4567]

I’m in hvac so I’ve seen air handlers hung with springs to eliminate the transfer of vibration. Look up spring hangers for hvac.
(Also why I have a lot of copper tubing laying around.)

 

[conv67bdere]

My buddy added an air dryer to his system which starts up a little before the compressor to try and keep moisture out of the system - makes sense - but that would mean you have water drain off to deal with in your unheated upstairs area . . . Not good

 

[BeepBeepRR]

i have a pex kit from northern tool. Its been hooked up to my 80 gallon compressor out in my shed for over a year. I have a small leak that i need to find other than that its been great. I also have a line ran in conduit under ground into my garage so that I have air there too. Again a year on that as well and no issues.
I have no heat in my shed. It did get into the 20's a few nights ago. But no issues so far.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200367525_200367525

 

[71SandbugCharger]

Whatever you do, do not get the kit from Harbor Freight or a similar one to what they sell/sold. Leaks everywhere! Also keep in mind your pressure and the pipe you are using. Copper is easy to use, but the walls can be thin, and you don’t want shrapnel all over some day. On the garage journal forum there are countless discussions and ideas.

Https://www.garagejournal.com

 

[Fran Blacker]

There are different grade of copper tubing. K has the thickest wall .065 for 3/4" but the price, Grainger Had it $46 for 10' of 3/4" ouch.

 

[dla4567]

You would have to have a kick *** air compressor to burst copper tubing. Even the thin stuff. Maybe 1000 psi? I know a business that just uses pvc pipe for there air lines.

 

[747mopar]

You would have to have a kick *** air compressor to burst copper tubing. Even the thin stuff. Maybe 1000 psi? I know a business that just uses pvc pipe for there air lines.

I had someone suggest that as well lol. I'm sure it may handle the psi but I can't stand that stuff, to brittle and easy to damage.

 

[747mopar]

Whatever you do, do not get the kit from Harbor Freight or a similar one to what they sell/sold. Leaks everywhere! Also keep in mind your pressure and the pipe you are using. Copper is easy to use, but the walls can be thin, and you don’t want shrapnel all over some day. On the garage journal forum there are countless discussions and ideas.

Https://www.garagejournal.com

I'm pretty well done with that place anyways, they have some stuff that's usable but most is junk. I have a whole drawer full of nearly new die grinders and I doubt more than half of them even work!

 

[dla4567]

I was just pointing out that I’ve seen it done. I would never recommend it. I don’t even like pvc for water lines.

 

[skicker]

This is something I also have to look into further...I need one dedicated connection at my blast cabinet...I'd like another on the center wall with fittings to both sides of the garage and then one at the bottom of bulkhead in the ceiling for an overhead reel.
I installed a 220 switch upstairs to shut the compressor off at night but may also want to install a ball valve to shut all the air off to the lines...

 

[INTMD8]

I used 3/8” soft copper. Easy to run and hide. Can be soldered, flared or compression fittings. A short piece of rubber line could be used as a vibration eliminator. Or a braided stainless vibration eliminator.

I used copper as well. All lines and electrical conduit surface mounted so install went very fast.

If it wasn't surface mounted I might consider one of those air line kits but I didn't think I would be able to make it straight/neat.

 

[gkent]

I've been using the same copper tubing in my shops for 40 years - LITERALLY the same tubing - I'd take it out of one shop and use it in the next one - seven different shops! I use 1/2" rigid because it looks neat and is easy to work with. The thin stuff has a 1200 psi rating so you'll NEVER burst it. Build it in sections on the floor then install it on the walls. I install air couplings above the bench every 4 feet, every 8 feet in the work area - keeps from having to drag long hoses everywhere. If you want to have it looking good, after you've done all your joints wipe the whole copper system down with muriatic acid and a quick wipe with water to neutralize then wipe dry. The copper will shine for years! Install a couple drops for draining the moisture. Aim your couplings angled downwards for safety - when you have 120 psi in the line and you don't get that connector seated properly you don't need it blowing square in your face !!!

 

[metaldad]

i've used type L copper on mine.
i have installed type K and sch. 80 black iron pipe on air jobs
for isolation, rubber/cork pads, available in many sizes.

 

[retractable]

I used the pex kit from Menards and it has worked well . Had it 4 years now and no leaks 170 psi.

 

[747mopar]

Thinking this will be the ticket, fairly priced, slick looking and easy to work with plus clean air. Yes it's a coil but after some reading it's actually rigid having aluminum in it, you run it through a die which rolls it out flat where it holds it's shape then easily bend your 90's.... looks like one slick product! Here's a link and some pictures.



https://www.rapidairproducts.com

 

[dla4567]

Please do a review after installation.

 

[747mopar]

Please do a review after installation.

If I go this route I sure will.