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Which negative cable is correct

Deanfitz27

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does anyone which negative battery cable is correct for a 69 roadrunner without a/c; 23 or 25 inch? As well should there be a ground wire grounding the body? Thanks
 
No body ground on a '69.. that happened in '70. '69 gets grounded from back of right engine head to firewall at the ballast resistor area.
 
Thanks Wayne. Do you now which negative cable is correct in the pic? I was going to order the both the neg and pos cables from classic as they have 25% off this week.
 
Before you purchase, are you positive you don't want to "upgrade" to a cable with a body ground? What with all the electrical "ground" problems our project cars can have, not a bad idea in my opinion. But if factory correct is the norm, I understand.
 
Before you purchase, are you positive you don't want to "upgrade" to a cable with a body ground? What with all the electrical "ground" problems our project cars can have, not a bad idea in my opinion. But if factory correct is the norm, I understand.
Yes that is a good idea, I may add a body ground as well. Thanks
 
Brother I would think twice on those repop cables. I had a practically new one go bad and it gave me fits because I didn't suspect it and I'm not the only one, a lot of guys have had problems with them. They are too expensive to have trouble with them, unless you are doing a full restoration and need a correct look, I would go with a parts store generic. Maybe you'll get lucky but it's a crap shoot
 
Brother I would think twice on those repop cables. I had a practically new one go bad and it gave me fits because I didn't suspect it and I'm not the only one, a lot of guys have had problems with them. They are too expensive to have trouble with them, unless you are doing a full restoration and need a correct look, I would go with a parts store generic. Maybe you'll get lucky but it's a crap shoot
Ok, tks for the info. I've noticed with the repo, there are two grades for the positive, a lower grade being aluminum for half the cost of the better grade copper or brass grade. I wonder if it was the cheaper aluminum people had trouble with?
 
Not answering your question, but good to know.

I've seen aluminum jumper cables melt while used, not a good idea. My Sears copper ones I purchased decades ago have always jumped started a vehicle, even when someone else's cheapos would not.
 
Ok, tks for the info. I've noticed with the repo, there are two grades for the positive, a lower grade being aluminum for half the cost of the better grade copper or brass grade. I wonder if it was the cheaper aluminum people had trouble with?
Mine was copper. the problem was in the molded block where the cable attached to the starter
 
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