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1969 RR Dash/Dash pad

mpro69rr

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Hey Guys, I'm starting to take the dash a part on my 69 RR. I noticed the whole thing is metal including the top dash pad! Is the top dash pad removeable or is it part of the whole dash? I was going to replace the wiring harness by taking out my windshield (its cracked), taking the dash pad off and get at the wiring through the top, is this possible? I can't find how its attached if it is possible. Thanks!!!
 
The pad is held on by 5 or 6 nuts thru the back. If asking if the top comes off the dash.. no, the metal is all one assembly.
 
The pad is held on by 5 or 6 nuts thru the back. If asking if the top comes off the dash.. no, the metal is all one assembly.

You have got to be kidding! I just keep on getting deeper and deeper into this car. How do people replace the wiring harness? Do I have to take the whole dash a part in a whole piece or can I do this with it still in?
 
You can do it lying on the floor working up, or remove the steering column, windshield, bolts that retain the dash top and swing it down towards the floor. All depends how far you want to tear this machine down....
 
You can do it lying on the floor working up, or remove the steering column, windshield, bolts that retain the dash top and swing it down towards the floor. All depends how far you want to tear this machine down....

Can I just drop the steering column or do I have to remove it? I already removed it 2 times and the last time I put the pin in the coupler and I don't think its coming out! lol

I also want to thank you for all the info you gave me in previous threads, I really appreciate it!
 
I hope you didn't take the windshield out just to change the wiring !!!
 
Remove a-pillar moldings.
Remove steering column.
Disconnect all harness on engine compartment side of bulkhead connector.
Squeeze clips and push bulkhead conn into pass compartment.
Remove kick panels.
Disconnect door switches, dome light. brake pedal switch, e-brake switch.
Loosen dash bracket bolts on either side.
Remove dash screws in windshield channel.
Tip dash back and remove (with help !!)
Now change the harness.
 
Remove a-pillar moldings.
Remove steering column.
Disconnect all harness on engine compartment side of bulkhead connector.
Squeeze clips and push bulkhead conn into pass compartment.
Remove kick panels.
Disconnect door switches, dome light. brake pedal switch, e-brake switch.
Loosen dash bracket bolts on either side.
Remove dash screws in windshield channel.
Tip dash back and remove (with help !!)
Now change the harness.

Thanks!!
 
Y'know, they either leak or they don't !!
Thats very true. I subscribe to a different train of thought, My car is a 1969, thats a 50 year old car. Probably the odds are the heater core was repaired/replaced once, but id hate to have the dash all back together and a year later smell anti freeze inside the car.
 
Getting to the harness from underneath laying on your back, does this work well, can you get to everything?
 
How do people replace the wiring harness? Do I have to take the whole dash a part in a whole piece or can I do this with it still in?
Removing/installing a dash harness...no one said it was easy. Remember what I said, make it easy on yourself. Consider where under the dash, all the wire hook-ups, you need to get to. The harness itself, attaches to the backside of the dash, and the firewall end of the harness...at the firewall itself. This is something you only want to do ONCE!
So, pulling the entire dash is not needed, but access to the backside is. Crawling under the dash is part of it. Why pulling the front seats helps alot...like removing the instrument panel itself. (While it's out, test each gauge, look over the printed circuit board, that's on the backside of the panel, and so on.)

Yes, it takes a process, to do it, and get it done right. (Really no different than any other type car, except it's one of the good ones!)

Deep breath, a cold beer, and relax. It only hurts once! :D
 
Removing/installing a dash harness...no one said it was easy. Remember what I said, make it easy on yourself. Consider where under the dash, all the wire hook-ups, you need to get to. The harness itself, attaches to the backside of the dash, and the firewall end of the harness...at the firewall itself. This is something you only want to do ONCE!
So, pulling the entire dash is not needed, but access to the backside is. Crawling under the dash is part of it. Why pulling the front seats helps alot...like removing the instrument panel itself. (While it's out, test each gauge, look over the printed circuit board, that's on the backside of the panel, and so on.)

Yes, it takes a process, to do it, and get it done right. (Really no different than any other type car, except it's one of the good ones!)

Deep breath, a cold beer, and relax. It only hurts once! :D

Thanks Miller, that's just what I needed, I appreciate it!
 
Getting to the harness from underneath laying on your back, does this work well, can you get to everything?

How old are you ?!?!?!

The problem doing it from underneath ... the heater and hoses are in the way. The glove box is in the way. the majority of wiring, connections and bulkhead connector are on the drivers side - the steering column is in the way as are the pedals. You're working flat on your back with poor lighting. Don't try to be a hero, if the windshield is out, PULL THE DASH !!! And with the dash out it IS EASY !!
 
Hey Guys, I'm starting to take the dash a part on my 69 RR. I noticed the whole thing is metal including the top dash pad! Is the top dash pad removeable or is it part of the whole dash? I was going to replace the wiring harness by taking out my windshield (its cracked), taking the dash pad off and get at the wiring through the top, is this possible? I can't find how its attached if it is possible. Thanks!!!
If your not taking the dash out, here how I got the dash pad out. The cluster,heater controls,glovebox have to come out. I never lowered the steering column. Here are some pics of where some of the holes are. There are 3/8 speed nuts.
The next hole form the one near heater controls should be 10 inches and the next 7 1/2. This is the same both way's. Man what a pain in the butt. Then I got to put it back in !!!!!

BC6F92FA-AAB7-4733-AE15-C35F55DC4A47.jpeg 62F63F24-DB74-4E59-BF32-9661FAC39EAA.jpeg 23F0D136-91C8-4530-9D81-29047D80F020.jpeg 8D36784A-6E33-4B79-8214-D3EC80AC1235.jpeg
 
How old are you ?!?!?!

The problem doing it from underneath ... the heater and hoses are in the way. The glove box is in the way. the majority of wiring, connections and bulkhead connector are on the drivers side - the steering column is in the way as are the pedals. You're working flat on your back with poor lighting. Don't try to be a hero, if the windshield is out, PULL THE DASH !!! And with the dash out it IS EASY !!

I'm older, why do you ask?

If I can take that route I will. I am having trouble finding someone that does classic car windshield replacement. Thanks!
 
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