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Running out of options !

I see that you edited your profile to show that you are from Sweden. I had suspected that English was not your first language in my first post in this thread. I even added this icon here: :poke: to show that I was teasing and being sarcastic. You never responded back. I now understand why it was hard to understand your posts. I do have a reputation for being critical to people with really bad grammar skills. I do try to let them go by but sometimes the errors stand out like a naked man running down the street with his hair on fire.

I'm sure that you are frustrated with this problem. I have had similar troubles where I have used all high quality parts and still have problems. It is very annoying. A NEW part can still fail prematurely. Having spares is great! I have spares of several parts and it helps a lot when I'm having driveability problems.
There have been some good suggestions here. I think that SFSI was trying to figure out which voltage regulator you had because the way these cars are wired, a 1969 and older voltage regulator can be a problem with a newer electronic ignition system. We are not right in front of your car, you are.... so to help you, you might need to clearly describe all the symptoms you are having, when they occur and how long all of this has been happening. Maybe even state again all the details of the engine and ignition. It may seem redundant but sometimes a small detail that you think that you mentioned is mistakenly left out.
 
Welcome Mikke,
By your description below I believe you have a secondary ignition misfire. Here's some things to look for.
Forgive me if you skills are beyond these suggestions.
"By twitsch i mean a slight missfire like biheivior no popping or backfire just a irratik slight interfierens thruout the whole rpm range like when a plugwire arks over to the headers hawe no headers thow ."
I know your parts are new but spark plugs can crack when installed.
I also would recommend google translate for your language barrier. by the way - NICE CAR!!!!
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Ok that sounds like it but where ?Going to install the new pickup over the weekend and do a comp test i will post the result asap !
 
1972GY8SE said:
By your description below I believe you have a secondary ignition misfire. Here's some things to look for.
Click to expand...
Mikke H said:
Ok that sounds like it but where?
Click to expand...
Top photo, in 1972GY8SE's post, is the inside of the distributor cap. He's telling you to look at it.
Cap and rotor are two parts, besides others, that get replaced when doing a good tune-up.

One thing that might help, is run the engine, at night, lights out, hood up, and watch for sparks. Sparks would mean those parts are bad, and need to be replaced.
 
Watch those plug wires that they dont touch the hot exhaust manifold. Does your engine pop back through carb? Is it a steady miss right off idle, in other words as soon as you give it some gas it has a constant miss? Are you sure this engine is running on all 8 cylinders? Let us know. Dont give up ...You will find out what's wrong!!!!
 
Is this the cam for counter-clockvise rotation ?
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The play is 0.012 inch it means that the pickup gap of 0.008 vill not be konstant the rotor vill hit the pickup is this the problem ?!
 
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0.012 inch is excessive depending on the amount of force used for test.
Is this causing your misfire????
 
So got a new dist. thats the last part of the ignition to replace did it help ? NO! Comp test tomorrow now beer !
 
Comp test cyl.1.3.5.7 =153-155 psi cyl.2.8=155 cyl 4=160 cyl 6=170 cold engine .New comptester .
 
Mikke H said:
View attachment 760223 The play is 0.012 inch it means that the pickup gap of 0.008 vill not be konstant the rotor vill hit the pickup is this the problem ?!
Click to expand...
.012" play is not that bad, a spinning shaft tends to run on center. There is no real load on the shaft, anyways.
The air gap being .008" is not really that critical, I've ran them as wide as .016" with no trouble.
The advance springs in the picture you posted look really light.
Your timing would be, all in, very early with light springs.
Do you know your cam duration specs @.050 lift?
What rpm does the car idle at?
What is your base timing?
What is your total timing?
What rpm is total timing in at?
Are you running vacuum advance?
If so, what is timing at idle with vacuum hooked up?
 
To be on the safe side got a new distr. did not solve the problem regarding timing hawe tried everything now 11 at idle 38 total at 2500 its not the timeing ! Idle 700-750 whit warm engine .Vacum moves sligtly between 16-17 slow movment .Pulled valvecovers vill check lifters did not check them at rebuild so vill do it now .
 
I don't know about the fuel in Sweden but in Canada, our fuel contains 10 to 20% ethanol. It is very light in specific gravity and very volatile. 38* total wouldn't work here unless you had 8:1 compression and a huge cam. Most big block mopars like about 34* total. All in at 2500rpm is ...ok, my personal preference is 2800 to 3200rpm with a vacuum advance distributor.
Here is a chart that may help you with timing dependent on cam specs.
camspec.png
 
We hawe 98 octane and I add octane booster at evey fillup .If the problem was timeing related it would not follow the rpm from idle to wot whitout changeing .
 
Mikke, does it pop through the carb if you goose the gas pedal? In other words if you step say fast half way down will it pop back through carb

Does it hesitate for a second when you do that?
Do you have a power brake booster? If so, plug the line going into it, then see what happens
I wish I could come to Sweden to help you, ive always been a sucker for the blond ladies, heck I even married one. Mostly Polish and Norwegian but your part of the world LOL!!!!
 
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No it will take off like a bat out off hell no popping or bakfireing no hesitation just goes ! If it run lean it would hesitate popp or bog if it run ritch it would smoke bog smell gas nothing off that happends !
 
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