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Kick down/passing gear question

pearljam724

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When I bought my car the kick down/passing gear was not working due to aftermarket 4 barrel and original linkage not attached properly. I added a Lokar linkage cable to fix the issue.
I haven't been able to take the car outside of my neighborhood yet. Because I need to fix my mystery turn signal problems. The neighborhood driving doesnt allow me to get over 35 mph because of the very short stretches between intersections and side streets. And its a neighborhood, lol !
Regardless, I thought the tranny should kick down to passing gear if I stomped on it for 2 or 3 hundred feet. Well, it doesn't. I know without a doubt the cable is hooked up right and I installed a return spring on the transmission end too. Also verified it should be doing what it needs to with throttle linkage, etc.
Do I need more speed, more time, higher rpm's and a longer stretch of road ? I know I can check by doing so eventually. My point is, is this normal ? Does the pump need more time to cause it to kickdown into 2nd from Drive ? I was thinking it should only take a couple of seconds if the pedal was to the floor. I have a 360 engine and 904 auto tranny. The transmission has no problems.
 
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Sounds like an adjustment/set up issue IMO. I run a Lokar cable, just a slight adjustment can make a world of difference shift point wise. Sorry i dont have any pics of the setup
 
Why do people go to aftermarket kick down cables other than looking cleaner or not having all the linkage? I was skeptical to adjust my stock linkage because other folks had so many complaints about it. But I followed the factory service manual instructions, and it was fairly easy to adjust...............................MO
 
For several reasons in my opinion. Yes, it looks cleaner. It takes up less space. It is easier and faster to adjust. If someone wants to adjust the cable. You simply pull on a cable from an area thats easy to reach. If someone wants to adjust the original linkage. You fight with 50 year old fasteners for 30 minutes in an area thats hard to reach. Regardless of knowing how to adjust the original linkage. Its simpler to maintain. Most people have aftermarket 4 barrel carbs, aftermarket intake, aftermarket air cleaners. Some have aftermarket headers. That changes the geometry of everything. It doesn't make sense to me. To fight with making something work that no longer fits properly. There are clearance issues with some set ups also. Having to fabricate brackets, linkages, etc.
If someone has an all original car. Original carb with all original linkage, original intake. I would agree. Its not always a matter of ajusting the original linkage.
 
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Sounds like an adjustment/set up issue IMO. I run a Lokar cable, just a slight adjustment can make a world of difference shift point wise. Sorry i dont have any pics of the setup
Thank you, I ll take your word on it and adjust it a little further until I notice a difference.
 
Trying to kick it down in a 35 zone won't produce enough diagnostics to make the right adjustments. Fix the turn signal problem first. Note: what are the turn signals doing?
 
Trying to kick it down in a 35 zone won't produce enough diagnostics to make the right adjustments. Fix the turn signal problem first. Note: what are the turn signals doing?
One is working on front and back diagnal from one another. I was under dash for several reasons. I think its one of 2 things. Old faulty dimmer switch, because turning the dimmer affects the turn signal for some odd reason. Or its the odometer gauge I bought. My car is a 69 Coronet. I might have bought a 70 speedometer or speedometer to another model that had a slightly different circuit. Perhaps causing signal and flasher problems. Its only a guess. Because it works fine for 4 or 5 seconds if I throw a new fuse in, then it blows after 5 seconds or turn on flasher switch.
Everything on the new bought speedo gauge works. Ive tried everything. Replaced checked and tested flashers, bulbs, bare wiring touching something, column ground, new column switch. Only thing I haven't looked at is if the circuit board and circuitboard plug for odometer is infact the same on all 3 model years. My phone storage is making that impossible to do right now as far as looking at a manual.
 
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Place an incandescent test lamp across the fuse terminals. This is your short indicator.
Start by removing bulbs and inspecting sockets and wiggle test. Isolate rear lamps by disconnecting the rear harness.
If dinner is indeed changing the circuit then I suspect a short or miswired connections.
 
I would wait until you can get out and get up to speed, 55-60 mph then try it. I can't imagine your barely in drive at 35.
 
Ive tried everything, replaced, checked and tested flashers, bulbs, bare wiring touching something, column ground.

Did you go through each lamp assembly and make sure they have a solid ground, if not I would visit that issue.
 
Place an incandescent test lamp across the fuse terminals. This is your short indicator.
Start by removing bulbs and inspecting sockets and wiggle test. Isolate rear lamps by disconnecting the rear harness.
If dinner is indeed changing the circuit then I suspect a short or miswired connections.
Yeah, I agree. Problem is finding it, lol ! Where do you disconnect the rear harness to isolate it ? I cleaned the fuse block terminals too. Still no fix. Thank you for trying to help, cause I need it, lol !
 
Did you go through each lamp assembly and make sure they have a solid ground, if not I would visit that issue.
My front 2 lamps are completely new. Everything worked fine at one point. Now it doesn't and I cant figure it out. New fuse, good for 10 seconds. Then left quits working. Hit flasher switch, it blows fuse. The flashers work, I can hear them clicking at all times.
 
Yeah, I agree. Problem is finding it, lol ! Where do you disconnect the rear harness to isolate it ? I cleaned the fuse block terminals too. Still no fix. Thank you for trying to help, cause I need it, lol !
Isn't a short indicator, when a fuse blows ? Im not sure what you mean by using a test lamp at the fuse ? Why use a test lamp on a fuse that you know is blown ? It keeps blowing the 4th fuse and I cant fugure it out. I ve tried turning the 4 way connection at back of Emergency flasher switch too.
 
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Did you go through each lamp assembly and make sure they have a solid ground, if not I would visit that issue.
Yes, they worked fine for a brief period. Until I changed standard gauge cluster and reinstalled control panel after painting it. Some connector is connected wrong. I cant figure out which. There is a thicker gauge yellow wire behind gauge cluster that has a black tracer. Its unhooked, anyone verify what it connects too ?
 
Isn't a short indicator, when a fuse blows ? Im not sure what you mean by using a test lamp at the fuse ? Why use a test lamp on a fuse that you know is blown ? It keeps blowing the 4th fuse and I cant fugure it out. I ve tried turning the 4 way connection at back of Emergency flasher too.

Yes, if it keeps blowing a fuse, you're getting an over current situation and that's normally caused by a circuit shorting out against ground. Note: Chrysler's fatal electrical flaw existed in the engine compartment bulkhead connectors --- they ran full alternator current through those little spade connectors in the bulkhead connectors to the Amp gauge. Sometimes the bulkhead connector melts and affects other circuits nearby. Only way to check is to disconnect the bulkhead connectors.
 
Yes, if it keeps blowing a fuse, you're getting an over current situation and that's normally caused by a circuit shorting out against ground. Note: Chrysler's fatal electrical flaw existed in the engine compartment bulkhead connectors --- they ran full alternator current through those little spade connectors in the bulkhead connectors to the Amp gauge. Sometimes the bulkhead connector melts and affects other circuits nearby. Only way to check is to disconnect the bulkhead connectors.
Good suggestion, I disconnected them at one time to simply check for oxidization, etc. This was fairly close to when I started having problems. But, the bulkhead connectors were in great shape with no oxidized or loose terminals at the time. But, I changed so many damn parts its hard to tell, lol ! I ll go back to bulkhead and look again. I know I did that once and didnt see a problem. But, I ll do it again. Thank you, kindly for pushing me in a right direction.
 
Isn't a short indicator, when a fuse blows ? Im not sure what you mean by using a test lamp at the fuse ? Why use a test lamp on a fuse that you know is blown ? It keeps blowing the 4th fuse and I cant fugure it out. I ve tried turning the 4 way connection at back of Emergency flasher switch too.
Well if you want to just keep blowing fuses then proceed. The test lamp will glow during the short circuit condition allowing you a visual indicator of current and saving fuses from the landfill. While shorted you can troubleshoot.
 
Well if you want to just keep blowing fuses then proceed. The test lamp will glow during the short circuit condition allowing you a visual indicator of current and saving fuses from the landfill. While shorted you can troubleshoot.
Ok thank you, Bill. i understand. Im simply trying to understand. Under this circumstance its the fuse or the bulb. How can you test the circuit without the fuse. Because if you remove the fuse, the next thing in line to blow is the bulb if theres a short. I know your correct in testing for a short. I just dont know how to properly? Forgot to add my map light quite working at the same time, bulb is good. All other lights work.
 
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Ok I unhooked the emergency flasher and dimmer switch. neither effects the turn signals. But my map light still isn't coming on. Checked bulkhead connectors again. Everything there looks great.
 
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