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Odd disc brake wear/new parts

Moparnocar

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I know, non Mopar ( that's probably the problem) but this could help diagnose Mopar disc brakes, and this is the only car site I'm on, so my apologies

2002 Acura TL type S brakes new all around. On the first test drive, real bad grinding from driver front. Got worse turning left

Found the outer edge about 2 inches in on the outerside of the rotor, had heavy wear, just 3 miles

Replaced pads, thinking poss defective pad, see problem

Replaced rotor, caliper , and pads. Not as bad, but still noisey and most wear on the outside pad and rotor surface.

Bearing was recently replaced by some one else, with new hub. I made sure rotor sits square as I tightened the wheel. No wear on the bracket from rubbing on rotor, and bracket was replaced.

These photos are 3 miles, new rotor, pads, caliper and bracket

What am I missing??? I'm stumped

IMG_20191212_190058001.jpg IMG_20191212_192246249.jpg IMG_20191212_192334596.jpg
 
Is this only happening to the driver’s front or, all 4 wheels? Perhaps, there’s more brake line pressure coming to this one particular wheel. Car have any sort of brake proportioning valve(s) or anti-lock braking mechanism that is somewhere between the caliper and master cylinder?

Edit: Even though you replaced it.. you’re also certain the piston on the new caliper has smooth motion and isn’t getting stuck in the open position?
 
here is the best clue you left that I can see

Bearing was recently replaced by some one else, with new hub.

if bearing or hub are off
it will take out the rest very quickly in the way you describe.
my guess is the bearing and hub were cheap china replacements to save money
as quality costs a bit more with that particular part
I've seen the cheap ones fail in under 5k miles myself
even a light hit in that wheel will take them out like hitting a curb.
did you see if it had any play???
buy a quality replacement should clear it up I would think.
 
Whats the inside of the rotor look like. Something isn't running true, like stated above, maybe a defective or wrongly installed bearing.

Confirm guide pins (if these calipers use them) with ones from the other side to see if there is any differences. Make sure the guide pin bushings are correct.

Do the pads sit correctly in the caliper without binding. Are the clips installed correctly as not to cause improper seating in the caliper. Look at the opposite brake setup for differences.
 
Whats the inside of the rotor look like. Something isn't running true, like stated above, maybe a defective or wrongly installed bearing.

Confirm guide pins (if these calipers use them) with ones from the other side to see if there is any differences. Make sure the guide pin bushings are correct.

Do the pads sit correctly in the caliper without binding. Are the clips installed correctly as not to cause improper seating in the caliper. Look at the opposite brake setup for differences.
Inside of the rotor shows a little identical wear, but not as bad as the outside

When I installed the new caliper/bracket I did look at guide pin wear. I could rock the old pins just a hair more than the new bracket. Not a huge amount tho

Clips are installed the same way as the otherside. Nothing seems to be rubbing on the rotor. Other side is installed the same

I'm thinking excessive runnout from the new bearing/ hub, but there is nothing obvious and no bearing noise
 
here is the best clue you left that I can see

Bearing was recently replaced by some one else, with new hub.

if bearing or hub are off
it will take out the rest very quickly in the way you describe.
my guess is the bearing and hub were cheap china replacements to save money
as quality costs a bit more with that particular part
I've seen the cheap ones fail in under 5k miles myself
even a light hit in that wheel will take them out like hitting a curb.
did you see if it had any play???
buy a quality replacement should clear it up I would think.
No play. It's a press in bearing. The owner now has waay more money in this thing than it's worth. I agree the cheap parts can be a problem, but unless I can prove its the bearing, it's gonna be a hard sell
 
Is this only happening to the driver’s front or, all 4 wheels? Perhaps, there’s more brake line pressure coming to this one particular wheel. Car have any sort of brake proportioning valve(s) or anti-lock braking mechanism that is somewhere between the caliper and master cylinder?

Edit: Even though you replaced it.. you’re also certain the piston on the new caliper has smooth motion and isn’t getting stuck in the open position?
ABS light is on, I haven't checked it yet, but i will.
I never did cause I figured if it was applying, it would be even wear I would think.

The wear is identical to the original caliper, but I will check if it's moving also

Just pass front wheel is affected. Car actually brakes well, with no pull
 
Here is the inside of the first new rotor. Wear is in a different spot, and just glazed, not dug in like the outside

IMG_20191212_213920572.jpg
 
Did the caliper come with a new bracket? Some do, some don't.

Does the driver side rotor have a normal wear patteren across it and not halfway like the passenger side?

Do you see any abnormal wear on the tire tread?
 
Last edited:
you can mount the rotor on the hub without the wheel
and measure the run out with a dial indicator.
I'm sure there is a spec on it somewhere.
that might help you condemn it or not.
 
Here is the inside of the first new rotor. Wear is in a different spot, and just glazed, not dug in like the outside

View attachment 880198

Just saw this picture.

The wear patteren is at the top outside and bottom inside. That's showing either the bracket is bent or where the bracket bolts to the spindle/strut is bent or misaligned for some reason.

Or spindle is bent.
 
Just saw this picture.

The wear patteren is at the top outside and bottom inside. That's showing either the bracket is bent or where the bracket bolts to the spindle/strut is bent or misaligned for some reason.

Or spindle is bent.
That or bearing run-out is were I'm leaning too. Maybe bent during bearing install

You think that would be obvious ( link, rust peeling)
But I see nothing. I guess I'm gonna have to measure and compare to driver's side?
 
Bingo run out shown by pattern on rotor. Check hub runout also see if rotor fits flush.
 
Hard to tell from photo, but it looks like the ears are bent away from the rotor. I installed a thin washer between the bracket and spindle, and it's good

Looks like it probably got bent during bearing work. In MN, some of them come out HARD!

Thanks for the help!

IMG_20191213_141854609.jpg
 
Hard to tell from photo, but it looks like the ears are bent away from the rotor. I installed a thin washer between the bracket and spindle, and it's good

Looks like it probably got bent during bearing work. In MN, some of them come out HARD!

Thanks for the help!

View attachment 880454

Thanks for the update.
 
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