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Steering Shaft PLAY

Rockett

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Hey guys, I've got an old OE steering shaft that I'd like to switch out for the one in my '69 (long story). This replacement shaft, however seems to have some "twisting play" between the two pieces. If I hold the upper section in one hand & the lower section in the other hand, and twist these in opposite directions, there's a bit of "click-clack" between the two. Not a lot, but it's there. And I'm thinking that *at the steering wheel*, this will be noticeable as even *greater* play (& I've done a lot lately to get all the free play out of my steering).

The two sections of the shaft have to be able to slide (collapse) into each other, but would a new shaft have this "play" in it?

Has anyone figured out a way to "refurbish" one of these to eliminate this very issue? (And I don't think that's why the factory had the plastic pins in these... plastic would wear too quickly.)

Only thing I can think of, is maybe try to add some very thin shims? -OR- put the female section on a press & squeeze it ...dubious, at best, since it would need to be squeezed just enough to end up *sliding well* over the male piece ("collapsable"), yet without the free-play that I'm describing here.

Has anyone dealt with this issue?
 
Maybe a pic or two would help with the diagnosis?
 
You can buy a coupler refurbish kit. I has all the parts to tighten things up. The end cap seal is tricky to get swaged on properly. But there are spring like retaining wires that are an aftermarket solution. Its a pretty easy fix.
 
The inner shaft can be separated and the plastic injection removed. Then re align the two pieces
back together at the correct length then using a syringe inject epoxy back in them.
 
You can buy a coupler refurbish kit. I has all the parts to tighten things up. The end cap seal is tricky to get swaged on properly. But there are spring like retaining wires that are an aftermarket solution. Its a pretty easy fix.
Did the coupler rebuild already.
I'm only taking about the actual 2-piece steering shaft (one end goes into the coupler, other end holds the steering wheel.)
 
The inner shaft can be separated and the plastic injection removed. Then re align the two pieces
back together at the correct length then using a syringe inject epoxy back in them.
That would only use the epoxy to take out the play (which would return as the epoxy breaks down).
My understanding is that the two-piece shaft should *slide* ("collapse") fairly easily, but should not have the torsional [twist] "play" between the two pieces, prior to any plastic inserts or epoxy applied at the holes.
 
Epoxy would still break allowing the shaft to collapse in a crash. If you pull them apart you will see there is a recessed notch that’s about 3/8” wide that goes all the way around the inner shaft that’s filled with the injected plastic. This is in both locations where the pins as most call them are located they are really just small nubs on the plastic band that’s around the inner shaft. These bands take up the slack in the fit between the two halves otherwise there would just been two plastic thru pins.
 
Epoxy would still break allowing the shaft to collapse in a crash. If you pull them apart you will see there is a recessed notch that’s about 3/8” wide that goes all the way around the inner shaft that’s filled with the injected plastic. This is in both locations where the pins as most call them are located they are really just small nubs on the plastic band that’s around the inner shaft. These bands take up the slack in the fit between the two halves otherwise there would just been two plastic thru pins.
My concern would be that the epoxy will 'wear' with steering use, & I'll end up with *rotational* slop between the two pieces.
Is it true that when the two sections are slid together, before any epoxy is applied... there should be no *rotational* slop between the two?
 
I’ve encountered a couple of them with a slight bit of play and both had the plastic broken otherwise it should be a good snug fit.
 
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