440 Motor Mounts

[AlienMopar69]

All, I have a 1969 Plymouth Satellite that I am rebuilding the 440 in. When I took the engine out the motor mounts FELL apart. I was looking for possible recommendations for the motor mounts, and where I could possibly find them.

440 is a mild build with .030 over and rebuilt heads. Looking for dual use, more street than strip.

Just looking for the best mounts at the best price.

Thank you

Brian

 

[Dennis H]

Schumaker lockers, the best.

 

[hunt2elk]

I've had good luck with Schumaker poly-locs.

 

[okiemopar]

Are you can get the regular ones at any of your local parts stores

 

[67 coronet]

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/newmapopomom.htmlhere is a link to the mounts that interlock.the factory mounts are very prone to breaking since the are just two steel plates glued together with a rubber block.

 

[747mopar]

As much as I like Summit I would stay away from the ones they sell, made in Korea, the welded nut on mine was crooked and needed rewelded, and the stud was so long it hit the block and had to be cut off. I never used the schumakers poly locs but they look the best to me although I've been told that they transfer more engine vibration. I used the factory style rubber and made torque arms to limit engine movement, don't know how it will work out but I want a smooth cruiser. Good luck

 

[RS23VOA]

I got the ones from Shumakers. I think i paid $150 but i never have to worry about breaking a mount, putting a fan into a $1200 radiator, ruining my airgrabber, etc. When you think about it, its not that expensive. I had a T/A 4 speed and regularly broke mounts. Pain in the butt to replace.

 

[747mopar]

I got the ones from Shumakers. I think i paid $150 but i never have to worry about breaking a mount, putting a fan into a $1200 radiator, ruining my airgrabber, etc. When you think about it, its not that expensive. I had a T/A 4 speed and regularly broke mounts. Pain in the butt to replace.

Agreed

 

[mobileparts]

I have Westar mounts out of Texas in stock, plentifully -- $ 15 each = $ 30 / pair, plus actual shipping or pick up, is FREE, of course....
Best to simply call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935... New York...

 

[cr8crshr]

I have a slightly used set of Schumacher Poly Locks that I need to get rid of. PM's are welcome...

 

[RustyRatRod]

I always use the cheap **** mounts. But I do it when I am originally installing the engine. I take the mount brackets and mounts, assemble them to the frame mounts and tighten them down. Drill a 3/8" hole through the bracket, mount and frame pad and run a 3/8" bolt and self locking nut on the back side. That locks even the cheapest mounts down for a fraction of the cost of fancy locking mounts.

 

[tallhair]

I always use the cheap **** mounts. But I do it when I am originally installing the engine. I take the mount brackets and mounts, assemble them to the frame mounts and tighten them down. Drill a 3/8" hole through the bracket, mount and frame pad and run a 3/8" bolt and self locking nut on the back side. That locks even the cheapest mounts down for a fraction of the cost of fancy locking mounts.

great tip Rusty! I'm filing that one under the "rusty's great tips" folder.

I do have a question pertaining to RS23V0A's excellent point/comment open to anyone though. I've seen people use engine straps, chain, adjustable eye bolts etc to hold the engine down to prevent the things he listed and to help transfer the power to the rear quicker. Is there a serious danger / likelihood in bending the frame etc on a stock/little hotter than stock BB Mopar 4 speed, or auto for that matter, in doing that?

- - - Updated - - -

I got the ones from Shumakers. I think i paid $150 but i never have to worry about breaking a mount, putting a fan into a $1200 radiator, ruining my airgrabber, etc. When you think about it, its not that expensive. I had a T/A 4 speed and regularly broke mounts. Pain in the butt to replace.

Excellent point!

 

[AlienMopar69]

Thanks guys for the help. I will be looking up these shumaker locking mounts.

Might get the slightly used from cr9crshr.

brian

 

[67 coronet]

great tip Rusty! I'm filing that one under the "rusty's great tips" folder.

I do have a question pertaining to RS23V0A's excellent point/comment open to anyone though. I've seen people use engine straps, chain, adjustable eye bolts etc to hold the engine down to prevent the things he listed and to help transfer the power to the rear quicker. Is there a serious danger / likelihood in bending the frame etc on a stock/little hotter than stock BB Mopar 4 speed, or auto for that matter, in doing that?

- - - Updated - - -



Excellent point!

gotta get the power to hook up to get any real danger of bending anything.rear traction has alot more to do with that then eng movement.

 

[67Satty]

I take the mount brackets and mounts, assemble them to the frame mounts and tighten them down. Drill a 3/8" hole through the bracket, mount and frame pad and run a 3/8" bolt and self locking nut on the back side. That locks even the cheapest mounts down for a fraction of the cost of fancy locking mounts.

I did a variation of this to my driver's side mount. Eliminates the need for a torque strap or chain. Makes it a semi-solid mount. It can move one way to cushion but it can't move in the direction of engine rotation when you launch. I haven't noticed any extra vibration driving on the street either. I got the idea from the Dodge Charger message board.

 

[q-ship]

I've used every variation of mount over the decades, and can only recommend "Mighty mounts". http://www.mitymounts.com/

Poly is too harsh for the street, (my opinion -- not much softer than solids), and any of the cheap bolt thru fixes are just variations on the cable/chain limiting workarounds, or fail-safes for total mount failure.

The Mighty mount uses rubber with built in steel limiters, so you get smooth/stock type normal operation while getting full lock-up on hard acceleration (with a smooth transition from stock to solid).

In any event, definitely use either the Mighty mounts, or the polylock's, or at least a cable/chain/bolt/etc; as a broken motor mount will hold the throttle wide open. --- This was only a scary momentary effect back when these cars were stock, but it can be deadly with current power levels as the brakes become useless, and what was once a momentary event becomes a multiple second event that is uncontrollable without shutting off the car (something that can take a few seconds of "out of control" before the brain/muscle/motion reaction can actually get the key turned off!

 

[383man]

Since my 63 is s street/strip car I did it a tad different even though its about 98% street. I got a steel eng mount off ebay for the drivers side and use a stock rubber mount on the pass side. I also use a chain on the drivers side just incase the steel mount would break which I dont think it ever will. Not much vibration at all from the steel mount and less worries about breaking it at the track. Ron

 

[biomedtechguy]

I've used every variation of mount over the decades, and can only recommend "Mighty mounts". Phttp://www.mitymounts.com/
Poly is too harsh for the street, (my opinion -- not much softer than solids), and any of the cheap bolt thru fixes are just variations on the cable/chain limiting workarounds, or fail-safes for total mount failure.
The Mighty mount uses rubber with built in steel limiters, so you get smooth/stock type normal operation while getting full lock-up on hard acceleration (with a smooth transition from stock to solid).

OUTSTANDING!!
This post has been resurrected by my doing a search for "best motor mount 70 Roadrunner 440"...
I read the website description of the mount, and looked at the diagram, and ordered a set.
BRILLIANT!
Since my K-member is being replaced along with the rest of the front suspension, with QA1 components plus SPC UCAs, and I have no idea how old the (so far) trouble free rubber mounts are, may as well replace them, and these should be fine for the next motor, a 541 stroker!
Thanks @q-ship

 

[beanhead]

OUTSTANDING!!
This post has been resurrected by my doing a search for "best motor mount 70 Roadrunner 440"...
I read the website description of the mount, and looked at the diagram, and ordered a set.
BRILLIANT!
Since my K-member is being replaced along with the rest of the front suspension, with QA1 components plus SPC UCAs, and I have no idea how old the (so far) trouble free rubber mounts are, may as well replace them, and these should be fine for the next motor, a 541 stroker!
Thanks @q-ship

Send them back Bio! I thought they were a good idea too, and the driver side failed within a few months behind my auto trans 440 that MIGHT flirt with 500HP on it's best day! You're also making good power, and running a 4-speed. After riding in some friend's cars that use solid mounts and not really noticing any more vibration than I do with my stock mounts re-installed? I got a pair of Moroso solid mounts...$35 from the Summit. I am still using a rubber trans mount.
The mity-mounts might be fine, for a time, but I know how much you love your 6-barrel and air grabber hood!! I'd hate to see it get damaged.
I would at the very least run a solid on the driver side, and/or use a torque strap.
And when you get that new beast? Might be elephant-ear territory...

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/just-when-everythings-peachy.192145/

 

[biomedtechguy]

Send them back Bio! I thought they were a good idea too, and the driver side failed within a few months behind my auto trans 440 that MIGHT flirt with 500HP on it's best day!

WOW! "on paper" they look GREAT.
I'm going to take your advice, and cancel the order.
Thank you!