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car rotisserie for B body

the idea was to do it in the air and not on my back but, it would seem the only ...or rather a more practical way would to be on a 4 post lift rather than rotisserie. I didn't plan on removing any doors or glass but, the one video FROM RedLine Stands said that wasn't a good idea. as the glass can crack. RedLine is one of the FEW stands with hydraulic RAMs to LIFT the assembly closer back to true. as to help with rotisserie sag.

it would be nice to paint the car though, it is in primer. maybe i should do frame rails, then have the glass out and then paint it? i'm not really shure at this point.





EDIT: mine sat on 4 wheels for a long while then from years it's been on jack stands to keep it away from the floor.
 
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I didnt have any extra support but i didnt have to repair any panels. I tried putting the doors on but the jambs were to tight but as soon as i got it back on 4 wheels everything was fine. I later welded in frame connectors to stiffen everything up. My door have a perfect gapView attachment 961700



Is that a tent you have your car in? Did you build it or buy it?
 
When i first brought i down from Chicago I could not put it in my garage. I bought a cover from Costco. We put an air line out to it and electric. It actually worked out after blasting i was able to rotate to clean the phosphoric acid off real well and i epoxyed it and painted the under carriage, engine compartment, trunk, and interior, everything except the outer panels Then once we mounted the suspension and 4 wheel disc brakes we rolled it into the garage. Yes i did all my welding on my back but it was the only way i could guarantee my door gaps were going to be correct. 35 years ago i went to school for auto body. I have to tell you the paint goes on much easier than the paint did in the 80s. This was truly
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shade tree painting and it came out perfect. The rotisserie would not have rotated in my garage. This was the day we moved into the garage.
 
When i first brought i down from Chicago I could not put it in my garage. I bought a cover from Costco. We put an air line out to it and electric. It actually worked out after blasting i was able to rotate to clean the phosphoric acid off real well and i epoxyed it and painted the under carriage, engine compartment, trunk, and interior, everything except the outer panels Then once we mounted the suspension and 4 wheel disc brakes we rolled it into the garage. Yes i did all my welding on my back but it was the only way i could guarantee my door gaps were going to be correct. 35 years ago i went to school for auto body. I have to tell you the paint goes on much easier than the paint did in the 80s. This was trulyView attachment 965926 shade tree painting and it came out perfect. The rotisserie would not have rotated in my garage. This was the day we moved into the garage.


I'm intrigued - I've retrieved my car that was sitting with the painter for over 2 yrs after working with a bodyman and learning to do this myself. I can get a rotisserie (on order) in my garage no problem but doing anything that creates a lot of dust will be a problem since I have other cars in there. Did you paint outside? The guy I worked with has done it and says it can in some cases be better than a paint booth because it can be cleaner. I want a show quality paint job. Any advice you can give is welcome.
 
QOTHL
Plastic off the section you want to work in. There is even a zipper that attaches to the plastic to let you in and out without a problem. Use 6 mil plastic for the zipper to work right. We do this all the time when sanding drywall and it doesn't get much dustier than that. That **** gets everywhere. As far as painting outside, not unless you have to and then your not going to get SHOW quality. IMHO You will, however get a ton of dust, pollen, flies, assorted bugs, and other debris that you will have to sand out. And some of that will not ever buff out. Sooooo, in your garage, plastic off the paint both area, use a fan (with filters set up) to bring fresh air in and another fan (again with filters) to force the paint dust out. If you don't have windows you can board up the bottom 2 feet of your garage door and put the in fan on one side and the out on the other. It will still circulate the air. You still have to plastic the top of the door where it pulls into the garage but it is pretty easy to do.
 
QOTHL
Plastic off the section you want to work in. There is even a zipper that attaches to the plastic to let you in and out without a problem. Use 6 mil plastic for the zipper to work right. We do this all the time when sanding drywall and it doesn't get much dustier than that. That **** gets everywhere. As far as painting outside, not unless you have to and then your not going to get SHOW quality. IMHO You will, however get a ton of dust, pollen, flies, assorted bugs, and other debris that you will have to sand out. And some of that will not ever buff out. Sooooo, in your garage, plastic off the paint both area, use a fan (with filters set up) to bring fresh air in and another fan (again with filters) to force the paint dust out. If you don't have windows you can board up the bottom 2 feet of your garage door and put the in fan on one side and the out on the other. It will still circulate the air. You still have to plastic the top of the door where it pulls into the garage but it is pretty easy to do.


My mechanic friend who used to work in a paint shop thinks the overspray will find it's way out and get on my show cars even though they are covered. I suggested covering them all additionally with that plastic painters cover but he thinks it will find it's way under everything any way. I agree with what you said about painting outside and sometimes doubted what the body man I worked with was telling me. He had a tendency to exaggerate. Thanks for your help. :)
 
I painted cars in the 80s this stuff now is so much more user friendly. Back then i used a nice Devilbis spray gun but now they are all gravity fed guns. Im trying not to support Harbor freight anymore but those 20 dollar guns work well. Having said that i am certainly no expert. Im just a guy trying to get his car back on the road after 50 years. My plan is to rent a paint booth when im ready to paint the outer panels.
 
I painted cars in the 80s this stuff now is so much more user friendly. Back then i used a nice Devilbis spray gun but now they are all gravity fed guns. Im trying not to support Harbor freight anymore but those 20 dollar guns work well. Having said that i am certainly no expert. Im just a guy trying to get his car back on the road after 50 years. My plan is to rent a paint booth when im ready to paint the outer panels.


I've thought about doing that but was under the impression you had to rent it for a long time. Please let me know how you're going to do that because I'm very interested.
 
I painted cars in the 80s this stuff now is so much more user friendly. Back then i used a nice Devilbis spray gun but now they are all gravity fed guns. Im trying not to support Harbor freight anymore but those 20 dollar guns work well. Having said that i am certainly no expert. Im just a guy trying to get his car back on the road after 50 years. My plan is to rent a paint booth when im ready to paint the outer panels.


I have a DeVilbiss finish line, have used a Techna at length. I bought a nice cheap set on ebay that seem to work well but not sure I want to trust any of them with thousands of dollars of paint.
 
Any chance you can tell me what the rear black trim is called that goes between the tail light assemblies on the exterior of a 68 coronet 500?
 
Any chance you can tell me what the rear black trim is called that goes between the tail light assemblies on the exterior of a 68 coronet 500?

introduce yourself in the "welcome wagon" and all your questions will be answered
 
I would also suggest building a frame jig. I did. I also have an Accessible Systems rotisserie. I could not image removing and replacing as many parts as i have so far on my rotisserie. Having the body only supported at the front and back will only lead to a lot of flex. Comparing my jig and the rotisserie, I’m thinking many of the pieces from the jig could be used to build a rotisserie. You could save some money that way. I’ve seen people build rotisserie’s out of engine block stands.

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You can buy enclosures like that from Harbor Freight, Amazon, Costco, Walmart, etc.
 
Any chance you can tell me what the rear black trim is called that goes between the tail light assemblies on the exterior of a 68 coronet 500?

Don't know about a Coronet but on a Charger it's called a tail light panel.
 
I have built 2 of my own Rotisserie's now at a couple of hundred bucks each. I got tired of showing everyone who borrow's it how to assemble it. So I numbered all the pieces at the mounting points. It has had everything from a Challenger, to 2 Chevelles and C10 cab and bed mounted to it. My Road Runner is next.

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