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Rim Spacers to Adjust Backspace

VANDAN

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I scored a nice set of Steel Wheels at Carlisle, 15"x 8", with a 4-1/2" backspace. Has anyone used a spacer, say 1/2", to lessen this to 4" ? Just wondering if these are available, or would I need to fab some up ? I don't think I'd be using these for a track application, but more of a street driving usage. Any and all info appreciated, Thanks...
 
I scored a nice set of Steel Wheels at Carlisle, 15"x 8", with a 4-1/2" backspace. Has anyone used a spacer, say 1/2", to lessen this to 4" ? Just wondering if these are available, or would I need to fab some up ? I don't think I'd be using these for a track application, but more of a street driving usage. Any and all info appreciated, Thanks...
If you space the wheels you lose the center register and may short yourself on lug threads. Not recommended.
Mike
 
Lots of options & thicknesses available, Summit, Jegs, local car parts store. I've used various versions many times. You need the stud length to match them. 1/2" is most I'd go.
 
If you space the wheels you lose the center register and may short yourself on lug threads. Not recommended.
Mike

The instance where this doesn't matter is on Lug centric wheels with a bigger center hole then the hub size. At that point, you don't lose the center register because there is none and the lugs do the work and centering of the wheel. Many of the aftermarket wheels are like this like the magnum 500's. They are lug centeric so the center hub doesn't do much. Agreed though on the hub centric wheels, that is a big loss of stability and also agree you will need longer wheel studs for sure.
 
Has anyone seen any with a center register extended also ? I haven't tried these yet, but may be a chance they will fit, with a narrower tire, of course...
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I'm curious why you want to change that b.s.? Lots of guys on here, me included, think that 4.5 b's on an 8 or 8 1/2 rim is ideal. I have some 15x8 trailblazer wheels that had 4" b.s. (+or- 1/16) that I had to run a smaller tire than I wanted, because the tire was too close to the fender.
As for spacers: i run a .300 spacer on an eleven second car, a .500 spacer on a nine second car, and a 1 1/2 spacer on a former eight second car. The latter uses a 4"stud and a 5x5 bolt pattern. The others use a three inch stud.
The lack of a center register doesn't bother me a bit, there are millions of cars out there doing just fine without it.
 
I'm curious why you want to change that b.s.? Lots of guys on here, me included, think that 4.5 b's on an 8 or 8 1/2 rim is ideal. I have some 15x8 trailblazer wheels that had 4" b.s. (+or- 1/16) that I had to run a smaller tire than I wanted, because the tire was too close to the fender.
As for spacers: i run a .300 spacer on an eleven second car, a .500 spacer on a nine second car, and a 1 1/2 spacer on a former eight second car. The latter uses a 4"stud and a 5x5 bolt pattern. The others use a three inch stud.
The lack of a center register doesn't bother me a bit, there are millions of cars out there doing just fine without it.
I may not have to change it, with any luck, but just thinking ahead, to roll past this, if it becomes an issue ?
 
What 33mp said. I bought two 8" 4 1/4" backspace and had to add a 1/4" spacer and longer studs. 4 1/4" bs was too close to the leaf springs on my '62 when the 60 series tires were mounted on them.

Bolt them up and give them a spin. Here's the ones I bought from the guy at Carslile that makes his own wheels.
 
Never use "spacers" on the street. Get the proper wheel. You only add potential problems when ever you try to "make something work" that isn't the correct part or application. Hub centric is always prefered over lug centric. Some members may not know what these terms mean. All wheels have been "hub centric" for over 30 years. These have fewer vibration problems as well because the axle/hub center is used to locate and center the wheel. The vehicle's weight is supported by the hub and not the lug studs. A much stronger and safer way to go. Here is a link that every one should read. Gives a good explanation of the safety differences in the designs.
https://www.liveabout.com/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels-3234497
 
I've been running spacers and adapters on the street for years and years. I have NEVER had an issue. cast aluminum spacer/adapters like to crack. billet aluminum only for me. I have put them to the test, front and rear. torque them properly, and they will last forever. centerline wheels are never hub centric, nor are torque thrust wheels , been using them forever as well.
 
@VANDAN , what size are those tires, and what are you trying to put them on?
Khryslerkid's 62 dodge and my 62 plymouth are two different animals. If I remember right, John still has the 62 housing in his, and he has a much more "open" wheelwell than my plymouth . Mine has (I think) a 65 housing, so it's a little wider, and has been moved back an inch for tire clearance at the front of the opening.
I'm currently using 10.5x28 slicks on 8.5"rims with 4 7/8 bs, but I have to use .300 spacer to make them work. (So, essentially 4.5 bs. I also have a 10x28x16 on a 4.5 b's that fits perfect. The 8" steelies with 4"b's I had to use 255/70x15, the 275 I wanted to use (smaller than either slick) wouldn't fit, too close to the fender. I'm sure that size would fit on John's 62 dodge.
Edit: as wp29 says, billet only! I made my .300 and .500 spacers myself out of billet, but the 1.5 are purchased billet.
 
Spacers take the hub out of the equation and stress wheel studs and bearings on the axle. I recommend not spacing it, make sure you have plenty of thread engagement or it could get ugly
 
@VANDAN , what size are those tires, and what are you trying to put them on?
Khryslerkid's 62 dodge and my 62 plymouth are two different animals. If I remember right, John still has the 62 housing in his, and he has a much more "open" wheelwell than my plymouth . Mine has (I think) a 65 housing, so it's a little wider, and has been moved back an inch for tire clearance at the front of the opening.
I'm currently using 10.5x28 slicks on 8.5"rims with 4 7/8 bs, but I have to use .300 spacer to make them work. (So, essentially 4.5 bs. I also have a 10x28x16 on a 4.5 b's that fits perfect. The 8" steelies with 4"b's I had to use 255/70x15, the 275 I wanted to use (smaller than either slick) wouldn't fit, too close to the fender. I'm sure that size would fit on John's 62 dodge.
Edit: as wp29 says, billet only! I made my .300 and .500 spacers myself out of billet, but the 1.5 are purchased billet.
33 IMP, those are M&H Racemasters, N50-15, about 11" tread width, so I'm not looking to get those in my '63. My rear axle is stock width, so it will be close to fit the 4.5" BS. I plan on going with an Old School Pie Crust DOT Cheater Style, so maybe that will make it, as I don't think they have too much sidewall width ?
 
Never use "spacers" on the street. Get the proper wheel. You only add potential problems when ever you try to "make something work" that isn't the correct part or application. Hub centric is always prefered over lug centric. Some members may not know what these terms mean. All wheels have been "hub centric" for over 30 years. These have fewer vibration problems as well because the axle/hub center is used to locate and center the wheel. The vehicle's weight is supported by the hub and not the lug studs. A much stronger and safer way to go. Here is a link that every one should read. Gives a good explanation of the safety differences in the designs.
https://www.liveabout.com/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels-3234497

100%. If you need spacers then its the wrong size wheel...
 
Vandan, I found two sizes of the firestone pie crust style cheater slicks. 10.00x15 and 8.20x15. The 10.00s are almost as wide as your n50's, and a little taller. Hard to fit in a stock 63 wheelwell. The 8.20's are 10.7 section, 8.5 tread, probably fit easily, if they aren't too tall. They are 30 1/2. Might want to check with the tires on it now if you can get something that tall on it. I would expect it to be tight at the front edge of the wheelwell opening.
 
I run spacers on a couple of my cars (Jeep and Alfa) without issues....but would NEVER use ones that were not hubcentric. Lug bolt and/or studs have one job...to clamp the wheel to the hub...its NOT their job to support the weight of the car...that's the hub centre (we say spigot but not sure if you use that word)....plenty of cases of accidents caused by lugcentric wheels coming off. You might never have an issue...but I won't risk it.. Vibration from imperfectly centered wheels on lugcentrics makes the problem worse....and ppeople mistake that for unbalanced tyres. My Grand Cherokee has had hubcentic spacers for about 5 years with no issues...and has been airborne more than a few times! On the Jeep they are the sort that bolt to the hub and then the wheels bolt to them...30mm thick. On the Alfa I can't use that sort as they are only 15mm thick so they are the bolt through variety with longer lug bolts.
 
100%. If you need spacers then its the wrong size wheel...
if I'm running a pizza cutter on the front, which happens to be 15x3 1/2 , with an 1 1/2 backspace, I'm not going to bolt that directly to the rotor. I will move that entire thing out with a 1 1/2" wheel adapter so it doesn't look retarded. I've ran entire Colorado winters on pizza cutters using spacers. there is absolutely nothing wrong with them when used correctly. the rotor mounting surface has no idea and doesn't care what backspace the spacer or adapter is giving any wheel , which is effectively what a spacer is doing. take a walk through a crawler/ mud bog truck show or event ,and take a look at how these guys are mounting their wheels. I've seen 3" spacers between the hub and 44" tires. and those guys tear the **** out of their rides.
 
I ran billet adapters on the back of my 70 Swinger with a 383 + .060 13 1/2 KBs with floating pins skirts cut, drilled and shaved, Howard’s alum rods 320ss crane cam and 2” Dougs headers on it. I ran them for spacing and for the large bolt pattern wheels with 10 slicks and they never missed a beat. The thing you always have to do is make sure they are torqued right and mounted to a clean even surface.
 
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