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Anyone use Dustless Blasting?

MGKelly

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Getting ready to have my entire car ready for bodywork, anyone ever try dustless blasting?
thanks, J
 
Yes and it is a big wet mess that drys out and then you have a dusty mess. It’s really no less mess than any other blasting.

The water is said to keep it cool so no warping.

They are selling these dustless blasting businesses like it is something special, it’s more of a gimmick.
 
When I had to strip my Belvedere, I had it sand blasted, except for large flat areas. Those I manually striped with a air sander. Really didn't take too long. I also, earlier. had the hood, deck lid, and fenders soda blasted. The soda also has to be dissolved with water, so quick drying is required. My body shell was on a rotisserie for the work. The soda was more expensive and removed only light rust.
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Mike
 
Had my car done and will not do another that way! The wet mess dries in the recesses and then is impossible to get out!
 
Did mine the old fashioned way. My body guy just took his time. Moved from area to area quite often. To be honest took about 12 hours of blasting to compete the entire car in about four or five sessions. Sand blast-clean-prime, sandblast-clean-prime and repeat.
 
My setup is just like yours, on a rotisserie with the floor plan removed. Not to many people that offer blasting in my area, the dustless blasting company comes right to my house.

When I had to strip my Belvedere, I had it sand blasted, except for large flat areas. Those I manually striped with a air sander. Really didn't take too long. I also, earlier. had the hood, deck lid, and fenders soda blasted. The soda also has to be dissolved with water, so quick drying is required. My body shell was on a rotisserie for the work. The soda was more expensive and removed only light rust.View attachment 993155
Mike
 
working on a car now with that **** piled up inside everywhere........ and once I cut the bad metal away, there is plenty left to blast that didn't get done

1) it's now on a rotisserie, so the dried up media slop can fall out........not sure how to get it out otherwise

2) I only blast sections small enough to manage at that particular time...... I always have sand in the pot; so when I cut away bad metal, I can get in there and clean it up

lots of time and media get wasted without a plan....... in my opinion, the guy doing the metal work, should be the guy doing the blasting

this also allows for pinch welds, ect. to be primed with weldable primer, then covered so the rest can be etched or epoxied

you seem to have a grip on the metal work, so instead of paying someone to make a mess that doesn't really give you what you need; buy a small setup and some sand; and blast as you go.....my opinion

and I only blast inner fenders and firewall.....door jambs and posts......glass beds and gutters....... frame rails and structural stuff.....no skins
 
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I'm considering buying a pressure blasting pot, not sure there's a clean way to blast the car without the neighbors seeing it and worried they'll complain.

working on a car now with that **** piled up inside everywhere........ and once I cut the bad metal away, there is plenty left to blast that didn't get done

1) it's now on a rotisserie, so the dried up media slop can fall out........not sure how to get it out otherwise

2) I only blast sections small enough to manage at that particular time...... I always have sand in the pot; so when I cut away bad metal, I can get in there and clean it up

lots of time and media get wasted without a plan....... in my opinion, the guy doing the metal work, should be the guy doing the blasting

this also allows for pinch welds, ect. to be primed with weldable primer, then covered so the rest can be etched or epoxied

you seem to have a grip on the metal work, so instead of paying someone to make a mess that doesn't really give you what you need; buy a small setup and some sand; and blast as you go.....my opinion

and I only blast inner fenders and firewall.....door jambs and posts......glass beds and gutters....... frame rails and structural stuff.....no skins
 
neighbors can be a problem. Blasting creates a very abrasive cloud which can settle on things (like a neighbors car). I have plenty of space surrounding me and usually wait for a windy day to disburse the cloud. even a large shop compressor will have a hard time keeping up and will limit the duration of blasting sessions to 10 minutes or so which also helps. I suppose a makeshift tent would also help and contain most of it. necessity is the mother of invention
 
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It did a great job on the car but the mess afterwards I still have sand everywhere I'm still finding sand in the car too!
If I ever need to strip a car I'd find a dipper
 
I had a guy come to my house and do the dustless blasting with recycled glass/ water. It did a good job but make sure you look into how much "Hold Tight" they are suppose to mix in the water and let the guy know that you know about it, they will often cheat a little on how much they use, it's expensive. I put down a 30x30 tarp and scraped up about 4 -5 full wheelbarrows of sand when he was finished . I think there was still 2 more left in the car,lol. He did the whole car including the inside of the fenders and in the trunk, engine compartment,underside of deck lid, hood. The floors and underside didn't need it, i used a needle scaler to remove the undercoating prior to the car being blasted. I should have done that after it was blasted.Later that day I primed all the undersides of the hood, trunk, fenders ect first because it you get any flash rust these areas are the hardest to sand . I hit all the finished sides of panels with 120 on a da the next day and then primed with epoxy.
 
There is another kind of "dustless" that uses a vacuum attachment to recover the media.

I actually built one and it worked fairly well, except-

The swath was fairly thin, and you couldn't see exactly where you were blasting.
 
wanted 1200 but I did all the clean up so he said $1,000. He was from somewhere around Hammonton area. He didn't have to do the floors top or bottom.
 
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