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Shopping for sure grip differential

BAFRAID

She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
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Location
Temecula, CA
I’ve been looking around sure grip differentials for my super bee. I’ve seen true track, power lock, Dana, power trax, auburn gears. This is for a street car, mild 383, 727. What’s the difference? What’s the best? What do I NEED?
Thank you.

Tad
 
I like the sure grip myself. I shopped around, seemed like $400-600 was the common price. Happened to be at a guys place who had a pile of Mopar rears and spotted one, $200.
 
For a mild street car, a cone posi(ooops, sure grip!) should be fine. I would prefer the clutch style. Ive heard good, and bad, about the gear style true track. I believe Dr Diff isnt selling them anymore. If thats true, thats more than enough to keep me away.
Since i wanted as much strength as i could get , short of a spool, I'm using a locker (Detroit, or also Dapco, same company). I dont mind the snap crackle and pop, but for a mild 383, you dont need one. Lockers are for 75% strip/25% street cars.
Ive got a nine inch in another car, but i havent decided yet on a spool or drop-in locker. Im leaning toward the locker for the open carrier.
Above advice to call Dr Diff is excellent! Step one!
 
Bird has it's stock 489 in it, that is a cone I'm sure, and it still works just fine 51 year later. Bee has a 741 in it out of a 67 Charger that's a clutch.. also working fine after 53 years. I suspect someone on this board must have a stock rear axle assembly in their spares hoard without blowing the money on new.
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found a guy on f/b marketplace got a 3.55 s/g (489 case) all rebuilt came with 2 stock snubbers and 3.55 tag with shipping just over 800.00$ its going in my 62 to replace the 4.30,s I have in it now
 
Bird has it's stock 489 in it, that is a cone I'm sure, and it still works just fine 51 year later. Bee has a 741 in it out of a 67 Charger that's a clutch.. also working fine after 53 years. I suspect someone on this board must have a stock rear axle assembly in their spares hoard without blowing the money on new.
View attachment 1028325
RED X on rubber marks on garage floor! :lol:
 
I put a locker in my '74 RR, clutch style and needed to put a friction modifier in it to keep the tires from chirping on turns. The car shuddered like crazy in tight turns but works smooth now. I went with 3:23's for cruising, I couldn't stand the noise of turning 5000 rpm's at 60 MPH with the 3:93's that were in it. Much more drivable now. Fuel mileage went up too!☺☺
 
Bird has it's stock 489 in it, that is a cone I'm sure, and it still works just fine 51 year later. Bee has a 741 in it out of a 67 Charger that's a clutch.. also working fine after 53 years. I suspect someone on this board must have a stock rear axle assembly in their spares hoard without blowing the money on new.
View attachment 1028325
If your cone unit ever turns into a single track.....do NOT keep hitting it with the throttle trying to make it lock up because it won't. Doing that will only totally trash it. Instead, pull it out and take it apart and machine about .025-.030" off of the faces of the cones. I don't even shim them on the first machining. Just don't machine .100" off like some others do. It'll be many years before you cause enough wear for the 25-30 to go away and by then, I'll shim the side gears back out to factory clearance for the spiders.....if they are still even good by then. And machining .100" off the first time only makes the cones thinner, ie, less grip.
 
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