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Power Brakes for a 1964 Sport Fury?

g413

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I plan to upgrade my brakes to discs in front and a dual master cylinder. I’ll keep the drums in back. The car has a 318 poly, and it will be used as an occasional around-town driver. I plan on going through Dr. Diff for the components.

Our A-body friends say that power brakes aren’t really necessary on the lighter cars, but B-bodies are heavier.

Do you feel that power brakes are worthwhile on these old B bodies? If you use manual brakes, what MC bore size do you use?
 
I have Dr Diff manual disc with the 15/16 master cylinder and am very satisfied. I do not think power brakes would be a significant improvement. The disc over drums itself is the significant improvement.
 
I have manual brakes in my 66 charger.
It stops well and I'm pretty sure it weighs a fair amount more than your 64.
 
These are the opinions I want hear. Thank you and keep them coming.
 
With manual drums all around I can lock the wheels right up if I want to. 1965 Coronet 4 Dr. Sed. 318. No problems with my daily driver stopping power.
Mike
 
Power brakes on my 64 Fury, stops quick and straight every time.
 
I have manual drums all around on a single pot master on my 64. Is it fantastic for stopping, no, but it gets the job done. Am I scared for my life sometimes when I let it go, possibly :p
 
My all drum with factory power brakes will put you through the windshield with very little pressure. Do they squeal/squeak as slow speeds: sometimes, do they pull a bit if the stab them at high speed: a little but they more than get the job done once you learn to respect them :)
 
I have manual drums all around on a single pot master on my 64. Is it fantastic for stopping, no, but it gets the job done. Am I scared for my life sometimes when I let it go, possibly :p
A single master cylinder is not safe.
You should change it out for a dual.
There is no good reason to drive around with it set-up like that.
 
Have a manual dual master cylinder kit for early b body for sale in classifieds .
 
A single master cylinder is not safe.
You should change it out for a dual.
There is no good reason to drive around with it set-up like that.

but what about the originality of the car!? I’m kidding, I’m changing it in the spring
 
My 65 needed a new MC so I looked on Rock Auto. They had it so I checked for a 66 dual MC. It was half the price of the single MC? I converted.
Mike
 
I think you meant 67 Mike.
But for about 150 bucks and a couple hours you have a much safer setup.
 
I have a 1963 Polara convertible. After two panic stops recently, I was seriously about order and convert the car’s brake system to either power front discs, (keeping the drum brakes in back), or just add a power booster to the drum brakes. My other concern was having the front wheels/tires off set to the outside to much and look like crap. But fortunately, two of my MoPar buds live pretty close and after driving a ‘65 Coronet with a front conversion, (disc front/drum rear), and another’s ‘69 GTX with a non power front disc conversion, I realized, my drum brakes are not all that bad. Luckily, my car already had the brakes converted to a big drum brake option from a 1968 BBody parts car. In 1968 there was a larger brake option (11”x3” drums), and it was a very simple swap over to the ‘63 Polara. Something to think about. I’m not trying to sell you on my idea, but neither of my friends cars had impressive improvements. Hope this wasn’t confusing! Happy New Year!
 
Thank all of you that have made comments.

I too like originality, but going to a dual MC is a necessity.

Many of you say that good drums are about the same as discs. A regular on the A-bodies site said that drums were equal to or better than discs. Of course, this would not include fading (after repeated use) or when wet. However, if drums are just as good, why did all the manufacturers go to discs?

Finally, do all changeouts to discs move the front wheels outward?
 
I have a ‘64 Sport Fury and did the power disc (front) swap. Soooo much better. The drums were terrible, especially in the hilly area I live in. There was technically nothing wrong with them though. I suppose I could have gone manual with the disc brakes but did the booster instead. It works very nicely now, stops as expected (where my daily driver reference is a Tacoma).

Points of note: if you use the factory sway bar you can leave the calipers front mounted as most kits do, aftermarket sway bar requires rear mount. I see no difference in front tread width before / after. If I were to do it again I’d try to find a factory booster and compatible M/C. Not critical but looks more stock-ish.
 
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