Cam

[Polara383500]

When looking at cams durations I see it @.050 225 then it says as advertise 263
Im lost on what to look for! Most likely going to be stock valve train! Going with the fastest way for me to get it back in the car and cruise going back stock everythin accept cam! 383

 

[33 IMP]

Advertised duration is when the valve starts to open, until it is closed. But cam companies, and mopar, all seemed to measure advertised at different points, and some had much shorter opening and closing ramps than others, making advertised duration confusing. So, the cam companies came up with duration @.050, meaning all the ramps, and variations had been taken out of the equation, and the cam was measured from .050 lift after opening, to .050 before closing.
It is a more reliable method of comparing one cam to another( NOT reliable, only more reliable than advertised!). Of course, mopar never published .050 duration on theor cams.
Mild stocker cams can be under 200° at .050, .215 might be a stock hipo engine replacement, 225-230° a very warm street engine, needing good parts, and a 250° up, at .050, a street/strip or race engine.
For what you have described that you want to do, i would look at the milder of the two summit cam and lifter kits for your 383, 214/224° @ .050.

 

[PRHeads]

There are almost no aftermarket “performance” cams that would operate properly with some 50 year old OE valve springs.
So, at a minimum you should be looking at the cam, lifters, and a spring upgrade.
This is even more the case if the motor didn’t come with the factory “hp” springs that included the surge dampers.

 

[Polara383500]

There are almost no aftermarket “performance” cams that would operate properly with some 50 year old OE valve springs.
So, at a minimum you should be looking at the cam, lifters, and a spring upgrade.
This is even more the case if the motor didn’t come with the factory “hp” springs that included the surge dampers.

Not sure what it came with. I intend to upgrade everything in the head depending on what they say it will cost! I can get a pair of 906 that was milled just needs angle valve job 400$ Only thing then I have to mill the intake to match!

 

[Don Frelier]

400 for 906 heads that still need a valve job is no bargain.
Better to mill the sides of the heads not the intake. Then you can easily swap intakes down the road.

 

[451Mopar]

The costs of rebuilding a stock head, with upgrading to hardened seats, and new valve springs and such (maybe new guides and valves, retainers, locks, seals?), make the inexpensive aluminum heads like the Edelbrock E-Street heads or 440 source stealth heads, look like a bargain at about $1,000-$1,200 a pair.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

The costs of rebuilding a stock head, with upgrading to hardened seats, and new valve springs and such (maybe new guides and valves, retainers, locks, seals?), make the inexpensive aluminum heads like the Edelbrock E-Street heads or 440 source stealth heads, look like a bargain at about $1,000-$1,200 a pair.

Do a complete top end with loaded aluminum heads is the best way to go! Unless you go to Dwayne or Todd for a deal for a well thought out package

 

[PRHeads]

Keeping it as simple as possible, I would look into having the original 383 heads refurbished.
Imo, I would get an estimate on going that route before going any further.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Dwayne,is a valve job and new springs on a stock head if the guides are good that much less $$$ Than a pair of loaded aluminum heads?

 

[Car #4]

@33 IMP So what does the * number represent. * around a circle from where? Relative to what?

 

[PRHeads]

Dwayne,is a valve job and new springs on a stock head if the guides are good that much less $$$ Than a pair of loaded aluminum heads?

There’s more to it than that.
Stealth heads are not exactly like stock heads, and on a mild 383 in a heavy car with a small cam, stock converter and no gear....... having an extra 20cc of runner volume combined with larger valves may actually combine to have an engine that’s less responsive for 95% of the use it will see....... even if the max peak power is a little better with the new heads.

If it were a 440, then the Stealths are an easier choice.
Or if the 383 combo in question here was something where the build was angled more towards “hot street” and say around 400hp or more.

Sometimes, the smaller heads with the smaller valves are the better choice.

If someone gave the OP some Indy 572-13’s for free........ they still wouldn’t be any good for what he’s doing.

All that being said........ the only way it makes sense for even a mild build like this to use the factory heads is if they can be reconditioned satisfactorily for the OP’s needs for less $$$ than buying the Stealths.
But, depending on exactly what the direction of the build is, it wouldn’t have to be “way less” for the reworked stock heads to still be a viable choice.

Unfortunately....... 50 year old factory heads usually cost as much to go through as some aftermarket options.