1968 Satellite - can't find turn signal holder / ashtray light

[cudak888]

I tore apart a fair amount of my Satellite's dash recently trying to chase down why my hazard flashers weren't working. Simple enough: Turns out the dash switch contacts were dirty. Cleaned them up, and everything is back to normal.

However, in my quest for organization and having one less thing rattling around behind the dash, I figured I'd put both flasher units back in their factory spots.

The fitting that holds the hazard flasher on the right of the ashtray is painfully obvious - as seen below - but not so for the turn signal flasher on the left of the ashtray.

Left side. No obvious stamped-steel doo-dad and a flasher unit floating in the messy abode that is the back of most B-body dashboards.

I'm mystified, as I've read a few threads that suggest that a '68 is supposed to have provisions on the left and right side of the ashtray for these flasher units (whilst '69/70 moved them to the steering column).

The only thing on the left of the ashtray is the fitting for the ashtray courtesy light. It's empty in the photo above, but it most definitely has a regular occupant (which is missing its center contact wire; probably shorted out at some point).

So...am I, quite literally, missing something that's supposed to be fitted to the dash in this area?

Also, while I'm on the subject, any ideas for a better/safer ashtray courtesy light fitting that will slide into the original receiver? Doesn't have to be a BA9S if it works and fits reliably.

-Kurt

 

[Nacho-RT74]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/68-b-body-sliding-ashtray.190842/

I guess being sliding ashtray will make diff against tilt down ashtray ?

Clips use to float on quite often on ebay. There is one NOS at this moment.

They slide the rear tab into holes provisions at sides of the ashtray housing. 71/74 got the same but just for turnings on one side. Hazzards got this clip on steering column/brake pedal brackets area.

Inline tubes offer these for some GM cars, but there are to be attached with screws, not with the tab.

I think Fords used the same than Mopars.

Some replacement flashers with plastic body got a stud that you can insert into the provision holes for these clips and twist them 1/4 of turn and will keep in place. This will replace the need for the clip

I think these are tipical from GM products. But they work the same on any brand.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

As I told... Ford...

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.c...-mercury-cougar-/-1969-1970-ford-mustang.html

( this same piece labeled Mopar would be on $15-20 price rate LOL )

 

[Nacho-RT74]

About the ashtray light, mostly all Mopars of those years used the same kind of assembly being grounded by chasis and single wire. Some are bayonet bulb but some laters used the wedge kind bulb on plastic socket. The sockets should be the same diameter and you could get any of them as your preference and should fit. I can in fact fit any of them on my 74 use the bayonet assembly or the wedge bulb assembly ( I have tried with some extras from some donor harnesses I have got along the years ), but well, the bulb shroud on mine is quite diff than your 68 too. The next to consider is the terminal used to plug into the harness. Some are packards and some others are bullet kind.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I can see some NOS pieces like this on ebay at this moment. Crazy prices thought!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-...099271&hash=item4b8768946e:g:6qkAAOSwtGRe8R~9

I guess the price is also because the housing for the bulb... however:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Ash-...918552?hash=item5b8024c9d8:g:42gAAOSwraNfliMP

Since you don't need the bulb housing/shroud!

 

[cudak888]

As I told... Ford...

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.c...-mercury-cougar-/-1969-1970-ford-mustang.html

( this same piece labeled Mopar would be on $15-20 price rate LOL )

Well, that answers the question - the original is missing off the ashtray and I haven't spotted the slots yet. Wonder if I have a spare kicking around in my Mustang parts bin.

Probably not worth the search; easier to get this.

FYI, slide-down ashtray. Lousy design.

About the ashtray light, mostly all Mopars of those years used the same kind of assembly being grounded by chasis and single wire. Some are bayonet bulb but some laters used the wedge kind bulb on plastic socket. The sockets should be the same diameter and you could get any of them as your preference and should fit. I can in fact fit any of them on my 74 use the bayonet assembly or the wedge bulb assembly ( I have tried with some extras from some donor harnesses I have got along the years ), but well, the bulb shroud on mine is quite diff than your 68 too. The next to consider is the terminal used to plug into the harness. Some are packards and some others are bullet kind.

Last night, I found an unrelated bayonet socket kicking around in my spares. The brass tip is just the right size to replace the missing one on this BA9s, though the insulator's center hole is too large. Shades of what caused the failure in the first place?

I ordered some generic Amazon sockets to see if I can repurpose the bits from those.

I'm 90% Packard connections in this vehicle, so soldering on a spade connector shouldn't be any problem.

-Kurt

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Well, that answers the question - the original is missing off the ashtray and I haven't spotted the slots yet. Wonder if I have a spare kicking around in my Mustang parts bin.

Probably not worth the search; easier to get this.

FYI, slide-down ashtray. Lousy design.

dunno if there is diff between both kind of ashtrays about this deal, I'm not the man to talk about avery detail on pre 70 cars. But if you remove the ashtray you should be able to see the tab of the passenger side clip inserted on ashtray housing, and also find the slott on driver side.

Last night, I found an unrelated bayonet socket kicking around in my spares. The brass tip is just the right size to replace the missing one on this BA9s, though the insulator's center hole is too large. Shades of what caused the failure in the first place?

View attachment 1066141

I ordered some generic Amazon sockets to see if I can repurpose the bits from those.

I'm 90% Packard connections in this vehicle, so soldering on a spade connector shouldn't be any problem.

-Kurt

certainly the baquelite isolation could be replaced and reuse that assembly, making the right hole size for the center point. Just need to be about the size of the crimped area on center point... sold a wire and reinstall a packard plug... done.

A plastic piece could work too... something like a coke bottle cap. That piece doesn't heat a lot to be worried about melt the isolator. Of course a piece of bakelite is better.

maybe an old credit card too LOL

 

[cudak888]

dunno if there is diff between both kind of ashtrays about this deal, I'm not the man to talk about avery detail on pre 70 cars. But if you remove the ashtray you should be able to see the tab of the passenger side clip inserted on ashtray housing, and also find the slott on driver side.

certainly the baquelite isolation could be replaced and reuse that assembly, making the right hole size for the center point. Just need to be about the size of the crimped area on center point... sold a wire and reinstall a packard plug... done.

A plastic piece could work too... something like a coke bottle cap. That piece doesn't heat a lot to be worried about melt the isolator. Of course a piece of bakelite is better.

maybe an old credit card too LOL

Shouldn't need to worry about the difference, given the ashtray pictures you linked to were of a slider as well.

I just ordered the WCCC part. $10.68 out the door. Probably the cheapest "Mopar" part I've ever purchased.

I'll wait for the Amazon bayonet units to arrive. They might have a plastic insulator on them that'll fit right into the original bayonet. I'm going to run an LED on this too, so heat from the bulb shouldn't be as much of a problem.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

The BA9S bits arrived from Amazon. Drop-in fit.

I replaced the wire entirely just so I could lengthen it. Soldered both ends. There's a new LED installed as well.

Important - I put heat shrink on the entire section that fits into the ashtray to prevent shorts:

Also installed the same BA9S style LEDs in the AC controls. Waiting on some replacement buttons at the moment.

Next job is to dunk my replacement dash dimmer switch in a molassess (phosporic acid) and water dip to get the contacts cleaned. Doesn't work as it sits now.

-Kurt

 

[Nacho-RT74]

So, it actually uses bullet terminals and not packard?

Did you get dimmable leds?

I'm not fan of leds on our cars... yet, but when I get convinced of them ( about their light coverage ) will try to find them dimmable and around 2800-3000K color temp which is the regular incandescent bulb color temp.

 

[cudak888]

So, it actually uses bullet terminals and not packard?

Did you get dimmable leds?

I'm not fan of leds on our cars... yet, but when I get convinced of them ( about their light coverage ) will try to find them dimmable and around 2800-3000K color temp which is the regular incandescent bulb color temp.

Yes, my mistake. I assumed one of the loose Packard connectors dangling near the area was it's connector, until I retraced it. It connects to the same three-prong Packard connector that the rest of the dash lights connect to.

Good point - I wasn't sure if these dimmed with the dash lights until yesterday. EDIT: Sure enough, they're not dimmable. At least I'll be able to re-use these LEDs for the marker lights.

I installed non-dimmable LEDs for the map light and dome light. I don't regret it. No more hot, melty white plastic.

-Kurt

 

[Nacho-RT74]

All bulbs feeded by the Orange line are dimmer controlled

 

[cudak888]

All bulbs feeded by the Orange line are dimmer controlled

Soon as I got off my butt and reviewed the wiring schematic properly, it became apparent

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Decided to hit the dimmer switch with something less time consuming and more or less as effective: Vinegar with salt.

The copper contacts cleaned up beautifully. I smeared some contact grease on the surfaces to minimize further corrosion.

Same switch prior to the dip. Pic from the eBay seller who I got it from:

When testing it, I realized a fair amount of crap behind the dash tends to fall right into this dimmer, so I did something unconventional - I wrapped it in battery pack heat shrink tubing. Not pretty, but if anything wants to fall down onto the dimmer, at least it's not going to short it out or cause an issue with the contacts. Also should keep dirt and grit from getting stuck on the contact grease.

Also got a set of ten dimmable T10/194 bulbs off of Amazon for all of $5. I can finally see the thing light up now, for a change.

Best $5 I've ever thrown at this stinkin' money pit.

Also realized I'm missing one socket, so also ordered some generic replacements.

While I'm at it, I'm considering swapping out the original tach I have in this thing for the 3D-printed doppleganger I designed a while back. The original has an R-T Engineering board in it, but it tends to hang at around 1,000 RPM and act like the needle shaft is stuck in molasses.

Easier to sell it off and run the $10 el-cheapo surrounded by the 3D-printed front and back (don't have a spare front ATM).

-Kurt