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Need some help with a 426 hemi street build

Ultimate
I would like to run a mechanical fuel pump on this engine anyone doing the same and have recommendations on which pump would supply the needed fuel?
ultimate pump? Mount a small hilborn pump near the tank. Drive it with a gilmer belt off the crank. Adjust pump speed with pulleys. Use a long cable to hook them up. Guys been doing this for awhile now.
 
I degreed the cam today and the cam card says to install at 110 center line. I measured it at 103.5 so the cam is advanced 6.5 degrees? I have the comp timing set with 8 degrees advance and 8 degrees retard so do I go 6 degrees advance on the crank? Here’s a pic of the cam card
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So I guess the better question would be this. This is an 11:1 static compression engine that will be ran on 93 pump gas in a 69 bee with a 4 speed and 3:91 gear with 27” tall tire street driven. I understand that advancing the cam will build more dynamic compression and seems to me is not smart for a pump gas engine with this compression. I installed it with the dots lined up and checked it and come up with 103.5 intake center line and the cam card calls for 110. I can retard it 4 degrees with the crank gear but still 2.5 degrees off and this is a three bolt cam gear
can I get the last 2.5 degrees with an offset bushing in the dowel hole?
 
Curious my self about 11 to 1 compression and 93 octane gas. "They say" with aluminum heads you can get away with it.
 
i will install the cam at 110 CL per bullets recommendation. I gave the compression ratio and car info to Ray Barton and he spec’d the cam. I also asked if he thought that 93 pump would be a problem at the compression I have in a hemi and his words were “shouldn’t be a problem”. I guess i’ll
find out soon enough.
 
i will install the cam at 110 CL per bullets recommendation. I gave the compression ratio and car info to Ray Barton and he spec’d the cam. I also asked if he thought that 93 pump would be a problem at the compression I have in a hemi and his words were “shouldn’t be a problem”. I guess i’ll
find out soon enough.

alum. heads might make the diff. , but w/ cast iron heads , back in the day I couldn`t run anything under 100 oct. if that , and keep it timed where it ran right .
I wouldn`t use an offset bushing at all , I never had good luck w/ them , I know a lot of chevy racers have used them , but the ones I saw were in an alum. cam gear , my stock hemi cast iron cam gear didnt like being drilled or center punched --------
 
A little more progress. Got the cam indexed and set the heads on to measure for pushrods.
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will the factory harmonic balancer work ok
with this build?
 
will the factory harmonic balancer work ok
with this build?
Sure. Need to check for top dead center as the marks may be off. I would run a paint line from the bolt holes out to the edge so you can spot any slippage of the outer ring.
 
Sure. Need to check for top dead center as the marks may be off. I would run a paint line from the bolt holes out to the edge so you can spot any slippage of the outer ring.

I have verified the timing mark is correct. I know the balancer from a 440 will work on a hemi just was wondering if it would do the job on a stroker. I appreciate everyone’s input and advice
 
I have verified the timing mark is correct. I know the balancer from a 440 will work on a hemi just was wondering if it would do the job on a stroker. I appreciate everyone’s input and advice
Not the same. While it will bolt up, a street Hemi uses a much thicker dampener. I would tend to do the same, especially with a bigger arm.
 
Not the same. While it will bolt up, a street Hemi uses a much thicker dampener. I would tend to do the same, especially with a bigger arm.

I know the 440 one gets used for the more available pulleys. not a big cam 632 lift roller
 
I know the 440 one gets used for the more available pulleys. not a big cam 632 lift roller
Crankshaft harmonics and torsional vibrations and that kind of stuff is way over my head. So I go with what the experts, the factory engineers go with. And they like the thick balancer for longevity. I know the race hemis used a thin balance but they were not meant to last a long time.
 
Crankshaft harmonics and torsional vibrations and that kind of stuff is way over my head. So I go with what the experts, the factory engineers go with. And they like the thick balancer for longevity. I know the race hemis used a thin balance but they were not meant to last a long time.

If u got the coin for a hemi , u have the coin for a real fluid dampener , ''only thing I use'' !
Think about harmonics in a thick gell like substance that wont wear out , compared to rattleing balls or cast steel , etc.
 
If u got the coin for a hemi , u have the coin for a real fluid dampener , ''only thing I use'' !
Think about harmonics in a thick gell like substance that wont wear out , compared to rattleing balls or cast steel , etc.
Until the fluid leaks out. Had that happen before. I use ATI for all my race engines and rebuildable with their o-ring kits. For my street builds any ole Pioneer or Powerbond work just fine.
 
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