The FM shows a torsion bar plug that goes in before the snap ring at the rear of the bar. I don't see how it would go on my 67 Coronet as the snap ring barely has room to go in there. Or, am I doing it wrong?
torsion bar plug??
- Thread starter Brandy
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1967coronet440
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Got a picture? I followed my fsm when installing mine and iirc it only called for the snap ring
If the bars are inserted all the way, you are good to go. I have never seen a plug in that location. My shop manual does not mention it in the text, and my 67 parts manual does not show or list it. It's only purpose would be to prevent corrosion in the socket.
I recently replaced torsion bars on my 66 Charger. Not sure what the "plug" is you refer to. I you have had them out, or replaced em, you need to tap on the end of the bar to properly bottom them out into the hex socket in the lower ctl arms. You should have plenty of room between snap ring and end of bar if you do that. Just grease up the ends of the bars when installing.
Pulled a lot of bars out of cars over the years and have never seen any plugs back there.....
it was on a image pulled from the net that said it was from the 67 Coronet FM. Had a plug and then the snap ring. I didn't remember a plug. I have since looked in the service manual and there is no plug. So, I guess i'm good as my bars are bottomed out in the LCA's and the snap rings fit. I will do as suggested below and grease the socket up around the rings.
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No plug, grease them knock forward with wood dont forget the rubber boot.
got the boots on. Pack them with grease? Or leave dry?
67belvedere/225
Well-Known Member
i just put some on my belve and the snap ring was all thats there
it s not like the car is going to driven in winter , like others said grease the ending put them in , they will never rust
i used super lube it doesn't attack rubber and put new boots on
it s not like the car is going to driven in winter , like others said grease the ending put them in , they will never rust
i used super lube it doesn't attack rubber and put new boots on
All good info boys, thanks a million!!
When i got new PST torsion bars, got new boots and clips. Have no idea on how it's even possible to get these new boots over the hex ends of the bars. These new boots are very stiff and made of a much thicker and less pliable material. Tried heating them in hot water, greasing the bar and boot, everything I could think of. Never did get then on, just ended up splitting them trying. My old ones were in good shape and extremely flexible, so ended up re-using them. Anyone else ever had any success with these new boots. ??
I made up a tapered piece about two inches long. The big end was the same size as the hex. I greased up everything and pushed the seal up to the big end and then over the hex.
My new boots went right on with a little WD 40. You have to turn the rear edge inside out to get the seal around the lip though.
New rubber that doesn't stretch much can be smeared with a little Petroleum Jelly...it softens rubber nicely. Leave it on for a few hours then wipe off after the installation. Handy for new door rubbers also.
These are all good tips, I've always put a little grease on and slid them on from the front end of the bar, then down the length to the rear. Big end of the boot going on first helps the hex slide through the boot easily.
I got mine on today, chucked the bar in vertically in the bench vice loaded the boot with grease, then with a pair of large outside snap ring pliers I stretched the boot onto one side of the bar then holding the pliers pried the boot over the torsion bar with a screwdriver.
None on my 66 and I know they were never pulled. Here's from 67 FSM.
Isn't the seal the boot?
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