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New ONE PIECE Rear Main Seals

watermelon said:
ordered the fastfish rear seal. i hope its a quick job.


watermelon
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Don't mean to summon/awaken an old thread. Did you ever get this installed?

I had good luck with the Viton 2 piece in one car with the Mancini billet retainer (broke my original retainer on that engine).

I had the regular black 2-piece with the new retainer first. It leaked a few drips every time I parked, maybe a 10" circle of oil. But upon disassembly my supplied side seals shrunk up away from the pan rail and was likely the culprit. They were brittle and hard like plastic when I removed them. Shrinkage was around 1/8" and uneven between the sides. Not sure what happened and surprised it didn't leak more than it did.
 
A383Wing said:
how does one get it over the crank flange?
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My patented "seal stretcher". I'll sell ya one for $100. Actually, I may see an opportunity here...I'm gonna put a hinge on one side of a seal and call it "one piece". My snake oil sales have been kinda faltering lately.
 
Just read this resurrection quickly, but why on earth would you bother to make a one piece seal and then cut it? We put one piece seals over Lycoming prop flanges all the time, IN ONE PIECE, why would you cut it. Spring is removed, seal stretched over and allowed to relax, spring reinstalled and seal glued in place in the crank snout.
 
If it's cut once, it's still a one-piece seal....maybe their thinking is one cut end is better than two?
But...rear seals can only 'seal' if the retainer is properly installed. The only rear main leak I've ever had was the one that a machine shop installed, with one of those fancy billet retainers..(can't trust anybody LOL)..Since then I do them all myself, and test them before installing the engine, with that "crappy" factory retainer, no leaks, no drama...

Here's what NOT testing the seal can get you--



dadsbee said:
Just read this resurrection quickly, but why on earth would you bother to make a one piece seal and then cut it? We put one piece seals over Lycoming prop flanges all the time, IN ONE PIECE, why would you cut it. Spring is removed, seal stretched over and allowed to relax, spring reinstalled and seal glued in place in the crank snout.
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Oh I'd love to see someone try that on a BB Mopar!:D
 
i never needed to install it thankfully.

my leak was coming from the oil pressure port on top of the block. oil was flowing from top to rear area.

watermelon
 
beanhead said:
Oh I'd love to see someone try that on a BB Mopar!:D
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The propeller flange is a larger diameter than a BB crank hub. I remove all the prop locator nutserts before I do them, but if these guys can wrangle a seal around 6 of them and successfully install I don't see why it can't be done a BB crank flange.
 
dadsbee said:
The propeller flange is a larger diameter than a BB crank hub. I remove all the prop locator nutserts before I do them, but if these guys can wrangle a seal around 6 of them and successfully install I don't see why it can't be done a BB crank flange.
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I believe it, I just can't see a Mopar-type rear seal stretching like that let alone returning to shape enough to get a good seal (most seals have metal inside the rubber--ain't happening!). Been so long since I've seen a rope seal I can't comment on that one...
Maybe the car-parts folks should try making a seal out of the same material as the aircraft piece..of course, I'm sure the Mopar crowd would cry about that being more expensive too!:rolleyes:
 
dadsbee said:
Hell airplane parts are cheaper than MOPAR parts... :mad:
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dfhnm,m.jpg
 
69Bee said:
No disrespect Snakeoil, but I think this seal solution is snakeoil. They want you to simply "cut" the seal so you can put it over the crank. You can't slice a seal with metal inside for rigidity without making the diameter smaller. I do not see this working out too well, and it is the latest and greatest solution with no longevity and reliability testing. I have been building motors for a long time, and I can not remember when I had a rear main seal leak on me. If you install the seal properly, and are careful, you won't have a leak. I don't feel it will work well.
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No problem I hear u I myself bought a new seal retainer from Mancini and can’t agree more
 
The uncut seal they're selling must be manufactured for another car or purpose. If people can figure out what seal this for or the exact size then it can likely be purchased for around $10-$12
 
69Bee said:
All rear main sets (Fel-Pro at least), come with a white plastic strip. You place the small end between the seal and block at the main parting line. This will prevent the block from shaving the back side of the seal when you rotate it in. As themechanic suggests, you use a punch or screwdriver (CAREFULLY), and push the seal out. Using the method I described above, you rotate the lubricated seal back in. Put the lower seal in the seal retainer as normal, and install it.

As Garys1969RR postulates, I agree that the leaks emanate from the improper installation of the side seals. Fel-Pro doesn't include them in their set for some reason, but rather RTV and 2 pipe cleaners. I think they removed them because too many people didn't know that you had to soak them in mineral spirits so that they would swell after installing them. If you installed them dry, they will leak. Properly used, you work quite well. I throw away the pipe cleaners, and either just fill the void with RTV, or get the Mopar Performance Rear Main kit P4271691:

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/pro...-and-big-block/cPath/166_169/products_id/4290

The side seal shown are the old style, but the ones included are rubber. I still used RTV to ensure a complete seal.

- - - Updated - - -



They want you to cut the seal, twist it open, and spiral it onto the crank. Not only does that have an effect on the steel in the seal, but you have to remove the crank to install it. If a problem does crop up, you can completely destroy it getting it out, and put the PROPER seal back in.
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There is no metal in this type of seal.
 
snakeoil24 said:
Thisis a great idea, I think it is a cummings double lip seal for Diesel Engines. If you have one or bought it let me know i will track it down. This should sell for maybe 22.00 to 25.00 max. I need you to mic it and look inside the seal for the production number. paying 79.00 is expensive..
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No 'g' in Cummins.... :) :poke: :thumbsup:
 
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