So the gears do not wear. Right. And good luck identifying the gears let alone the wear. This guys car most likely has not been apart. So at 52 years it needs the chain and gears. Period.
Timing Cover Replacement
- Thread starter 69SatelliteGuy
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69SatelliteGuy
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At $25, I'll just do them both- https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ar-1969-plymouth-satellite?q=timing+set&pos=1
Right move.
Have fun. It is worth putting all new part's in if it don't brake the bank.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
Do both gears and chain. As mentioned stock replacement stuff is not that expensive. I don't know what year they started with the "silent" timing chain cam gear with the nylon covered teeth, but those need to be replaced.
Usually the pitting on the cover behind the water pump, but can also get to the sealing surfaces.
If it is mild pitting, it's not a problem, just if it is so deep as to maybe cause pinhole leaks under pressure.
On installation, use some liquid teflon thread sealant on the end of the bolts. The water pump and fuel pump bolt holes are open to the inside of the engine where fluids (oil) could seep past the threads. Also, most of the timing cover to block bolts are open to the water jacket(s), but that is a bit more obvious when they leak.
On the earlier timing covers, they have a steel bolt on timing tab on the passenger side, and I think the cast iron pump with the lower radiator hose inlet is on the drivers side.
The later timing covers have the timing marks cast into the timing cover case. I think on the driver side (been a long time since I did a small block), with the aluminum water pump with the radiator hose inlet on the passenger side.
All the parts interchange, you would just need to re-mark the crank damper to match the timing marks of the different cover.
Usually the pitting on the cover behind the water pump, but can also get to the sealing surfaces.
If it is mild pitting, it's not a problem, just if it is so deep as to maybe cause pinhole leaks under pressure.
On installation, use some liquid teflon thread sealant on the end of the bolts. The water pump and fuel pump bolt holes are open to the inside of the engine where fluids (oil) could seep past the threads. Also, most of the timing cover to block bolts are open to the water jacket(s), but that is a bit more obvious when they leak.
On the earlier timing covers, they have a steel bolt on timing tab on the passenger side, and I think the cast iron pump with the lower radiator hose inlet is on the drivers side.
The later timing covers have the timing marks cast into the timing cover case. I think on the driver side (been a long time since I did a small block), with the aluminum water pump with the radiator hose inlet on the passenger side.
All the parts interchange, you would just need to re-mark the crank damper to match the timing marks of the different cover.
65-440
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Yup, you win.....a $25 part store set sure, it's cheap enough just do the set. Most good sets are $100 and up, so a replacement chain is much cheaper and it takes a lot for a gear to wear to the point of needing to be replaced, especially when we're talking about a nice gear set.
All I was saying is it's not always necessary to replace the entire set, I don't know the guys car or its history nor am I the guy working on it.
I've always done the 'set' cuz when I've done this work I haven't known the car's history or it has been a long time. It's the kind of job, as has been mentioned, where you're removing parts that require some work and time...and while you have them off inspect/replace anything suspect...pump, hoses, belts, etc and etc. Last thing I wanna do is be taking stuff apart again a month later.
69SatelliteGuy
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This car was bought from the second owner. Right around 70,000 and don't doubt it's actual. He only owned it a year or two. Little rust, but mechanically it's a bit eh. I'm building a 383 for it, but I'm a hoarder of projects and there is other stuff ahead of that. Just want to make it driveable. When I bought it, I was able to drive it and actually during the winter, when my daily died for a week I drove this every day no problems. But yes I doubt its ever been apart and it's time. Ordered the timing chain, and a new water pump. Felpro timing cover gaskets too. I hate mechanical work, but hey it's gotta get done. Belts should probably get done too.
69SatelliteGuy
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Well it's not that I hate it, I just prefer bodywork. Got most of it apart tonight. Having a rough time with that lower alternator bolt. Out most of the way but now it almost seems like it's spinning.
Most likely a lot of corrosion hanging on the bolt making it swollen and large. Pry behind it as you turn it. Spray it with penetrant..
Yeah - I used an angled tool that you can set or wedge behind the head of the bolt and apply outward pressure as you unscrew it that has worked for me. You may need to run a tap in the hole to clean it out and run a new bolt in there to make sure there are 'threads' left. I always use new bolts. When using lubes allow that to soak for a while...well, being a body guy I reckon I'm not saying anything you don't know.
69SatelliteGuy
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Got the bolt out, removed all the timing cover bolts and the 2 front oil pan ones. Covers is stuck on so I tapped it with a rubber/plastic mallet there’s is a large hole in it now so it’s getting replaced. Still stuck on though.
69SatelliteGuy
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69SatelliteGuy
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Woah, can you put a timing chain in backwards? Now it's tight on Passenger side and loose on Drivers instead of the other way 'round which is how it was when I took it off. Also the old gears had multiple broken teeth and a Pentastar on them LOL
65-440
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Broken teeth, nice! Good thing you bought that gearset after all!
Cheap chains will have a decent amount of slop, some more than others. Nudge the crank clockwise a tad and the slop will go to the other side. How far off are the timing marks once you do that?
69SatelliteGuy
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69SatelliteGuy
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So I’ve found a timing cover, got it cleaned up and painted along with my water pump. What’s the deal with the front oil pan gasket? My felpro kit came with two. And it came with some metal tube and loctite, no clue what it is.
64fury74charger
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The U rubber seals the front of the oil pan and the metal cylinder is a spacer for the harmonic balancer if it is loose on the crank. That’s what the little tube of loctitle is for. Check the balancer before you go together and see if it is sloppy on the crank. If it’s tight no need for the shim. Hope this helps you.
69SatelliteGuy
Well-Known Member
It's done and... it leaks. I haven't got the two oil pan bolts in, but the rest are tight. Leaks from the bottom drivers side. Here's a vid of it running though. Checked the NEW oil and it's WHITE after 1 minute running.
Here’s the leak-
Here’s the leak-
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