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Vacuum lines Romovel ??

pedal2themetal

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Hi I have a few lines I'd like to remove on my 75 5.2.. I do not have Emission testing. I have posted a few pictures of what I'm looking at I don't know what they do.. I don't think any are for the transmission I didn't see a modulator valve anywhere on the transmission.

the items I want to remove are in the center of the pictures

Thank You
tim

vacuum1.jpg vacuum2.jpg vacuum3.jpg vacuum4.jpg
 
Last edited:
oops I missed one The items I want to remove are in the center of the pictures
thanks
tim

vacuum5.jpg
 
No idea what any of those do but I'd recommend finding out before you start ripping them off. If they are all emissions related thats fine but if your ECU wants to see them in order to operate correctly it might be detrimental to remove them. I'd figure out what the overall system/s are and what everything does or is supposed to do, then you can go about eliminating what you don't want/need.
 
Hi I have a few lines I'd like to remove on my 75 5.2.. I do not have Emission testing. I have posted a few pictures of what I'm looking at I don't know what they do.. I don't think any are for the transmission I didn't see a modulator valve anywhere on the transmission.

the items I want to remove are in the center of the pictures

Thank You
tim

View attachment 1119150 View attachment 1119151 View attachment 1119152 View attachment 1119153
Unlike Ford and GM, Torqueflites didn't use a modulator valve, but rather a mechanical linkage to the valve body.
 
Can you trace each one and see where they go? Start at the source of vacuum (intake manifold or carb plate) and trace to component. Should become obvious what they each do.

RGAZ
 
looks like most of them go to your cruise control, get one of those wrong and it wont work
 
Some may be for the H/AC controls...door locks if equipped, thinking offhand...
 
Unless the sticker was removed. The vacuum line routing should be on a sticker in the engine compartment. Usually radiator support or inner fender.
If you are just looking to "clean up" the engine compartment looks you should have a service manual. And then read it before you start changing things. Some are related to ignition timing so you will need to make tune up adjustments also. No carb..what are you doing ?
 
HI. OK... NO cruse and no vaccum operated H/vac comtrols... Purity base modal ...Per pictures in first post, the lines go from carb base (top rt. Picture) to a what looks like a heated switch with two small hose's coming out one goes to the valve at the front of the intake (bottom left picture) that goes to the switch in picture at bottom rt.. that has two lines out and an two elect. wire's on it, one vacuum line is missing? the other one goes to the center pod of the 3 pack pod in the top left picture. such a mass of hoses I don't know where they go???

The second hose from the first thermo switch (top rt. picture) goes to the switch in the second post with two wires coming out and is mounted on driver side fender well.

I don't know... to much crap.. I think most of it is nonsence the car is right at the emissions area. I've already removed the air pump and cat.. I"m just going to plug it off and see how it run's i guess and go from there. Ignition module is just electronic points not much else to it.. (like early Ford's Dura-spark)

thanks everyone
tim
 
OK just remember that the ignition is a "system" and you can't just arbitrarily disconnect things because you don't like/understand what they do wit h out causing another problem. If you want to disconnect everything, than get a new electronic ignition kit that has a matched ecu, distributor. Go from there. You don't know what the vacuum advance rating on the original distributor is or even the timing curve built into it. These things were calibrated into the complete ignition system when the car was manufactured. Just like bolting on a carburetor from another car and hopping it is jetted/adjusted the same.
 
OK just remember that the ignition is a "system" and you can't just arbitrarily disconnect things because you don't like/understand what they do wit h out causing another problem. If you want to disconnect everything, than get a new electronic ignition kit that has a matched ecu, distributor. Go from there. You don't know what the vacuum advance rating on the original distributor is or even the timing curve built into it. These things were calibrated into the complete ignition system when the car was manufactured. Just like bolting on a carburetor from another car and hopping it is jetted/adjusted the same.
Yeah - agree...trace the hoses and ID what they're connected to - the era of the car had all kinds of emission control stuff to starve motors remembering my mid-70's Cordoba...
 
oh , easy then, just get a new ignition setup with distributor ,maybe MSD , pull all that stuff off plug the holes new carb and go
 
Second picture.. Manifold Vacuum to Carb .. LOL its sucking its self.

1047288-5761ccef2b263059fb949499bb0611c3.jpg


This may help..

s-l1600.jpg


Or this.. 360 but should be close.
MD871.jpg
 
Don't mean to run this thread off the rails; but a humorous recollection of mid-70's. My boss got a brand new Cordoba and we were riding along when this stench in the car was pretty ripe. I thought he let a nasty beer fart and figured he likely thought I did. Nope - it was the converter...a new thing then...
 
When did they start the lean burn on these things? I know it had to be late 70’s early 80’s?
 
When did they start the lean burn on these things? I know it had to be late 70’s early 80’s?
I had one of those lean burn command units in my '75 Cordoba - royal PIA. Might have been around the 1st year for the CQ.
 
HI,
OK.. distributor vacuum is just run off spark port on the carb,, the ignition control module has only 2 wires coming out of it.. That's what I was saying its still mostly old school.. plugged off that hose .. it runs fine going to take it out in a few minutes to get pizza and see how it goes.. So I'm guessing that all those vacuum lines were for emission stuff and the air pump that's been gone for years..

All those vacuum lines really didn't go anywhere except into each other. only a couple of them had wires coming out of them (the one at the back of the motor in picture bottom rt. first post and the other one was pictured in the second post an located on driver side fender) but it doesn't seam to have effected anything yet.. I'll watch it and see.

Thanks for all the reply's and things to look at..

Oh I have replaced the 2bb for a 450 Holly quick fuel when I rebuilt the motor a couple of years ago..



take care
tim
 
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