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Voltage Regulators

The Rebel

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Hey guys a friend pointed out that the voltage regulator I have is for racing only as it's constantly providing 13.5 volts.

As I don't race on the track & don't want to fry my battery/electrical system I'm looking to get a factory one and he told me he got it from this company. Wondering if you guys have ever bought from them.

I have this as my ECU, not sure who made it or any spec's but was told it's called the gold box.
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Got rid of that blue regulator batteries life seemed short. Put 2 electronic regulators in that look factory and fused them.
 
mopar made the gold box back in the late 70s -80s if i remember right the blue regulator been on my 68 rr for the last 26 years no problems
 
13.5VDC won’t fry anything, I can’t imagine. I’ve been buying the solid state VRs and the charge right at 14.4.
 
^^^ as above, I don't get how 13.5 is frying anything. You should be charging at at least that, more if you have an AGM battery as they like 14.7 to 15
 
Not sure if mine is an AGM but it's a NAPA Legend 8424 which is a Wet battery, so I guess it's not an AGM.

So if the battery is constantly charging I won't risk overcharging the battery if I was on a long road trip?

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The ECU does look like the old Mopar Gold Box race unit. I don't recall Mopar cautioning about durability issues with the Gold Box Box for extended lower RPM use like they did with the original Blue box race units. The P3690732 regulator is what you want to use with the Gold Box. I agree with others, 13.5 V won't hurt anything.
 
If I wanted to get rid of the blue regulator can I still use the gold box?
 
If don't use an alternator you don't need a regulator. I should have been more clear.
What's wrong with using the blue electronic regulator? Don't like blue?
 
Thanks for clarifying. I use an alternator. Nothing wrong with it but was thinking about going with a stock one vs the blue, rather than have the battery being constantly charged.

If don't use an alternator you don't need a regulator. I should have been more clear.
What's wrong with using the blue electronic regulator? Don't like blue?
 
The only difference between the blue regulator and the normal regulators is the blue one will always charge to only 13.5 volts. Where as a stock type regulator will change its voltage rating according to the outside temp. In other words in very hot weather the stock type may charge to 14.0 and in very cold temps they can go as high as 15.0. The blue one always stays set at 13.5. And it wont fry a thing as if you are frying anything there is something else wrong. Ron
 
Thanks for the full explanation! I was thinking that I was running the risk of the overcharging the battery. I have no electrical issues and my amp meter does not indicate any electrical issues.

I had been told that if I was going on a long road trip that due to the blue regulator I'd fry my battery.

The only difference between the blue regulator and the normal regulators is the blue one will always charge to only 13.5 volts. Where as a stock type regulator will change its voltage rating according to the outside temp. In other words in very hot weather the stock type may charge to 14.0 and in very cold temps they can go as high as 15.0. The blue one always stays set at 13.5. And it wont fry a thing as if you are frying anything there is something else wrong. Ron
 
I ran to Buffalo with the blue one. My batteries seemed to last 3 years or so. Costco was very nice full warranty.
 
Rebel, just went back to one of the old DC bibles to see what they said about the 0732 regulator. It is used with a pre "70 single field alternator that has an updated electronic ignition. With the ECU you need the constant voltage output regulator. The P3690732 blue regulator is NOT a race only regulator. It is need with the electronic ignition and the single wire alternator. A stock old style will not work well with the Gold box ECU. The Gold box ECU is OK for street type driving & up to 6000 RPM as long as you DO NOT use the "race" coils like the Mopar P3690560 race coil.
An Accel 140001 coil with a .5 to .8 Ohm ballast resistor is what was recommended for the Gold box up to 6000 RPM and the P3690732 voltage regulator.
 
Rebel, just went back to one of the old DC bibles to see what they said about the 0732 regulator. It is used with a pre "70 single field alternator that has an updated electronic ignition. With the ECU you need the constant voltage output regulator. The P3690732 blue regulator is NOT a race only regulator. It is need with the electronic ignition and the single wire alternator. A stock old style will not work well with the Gold box ECU. The Gold box ECU is OK for street type driving & up to 6000 RPM as long as you DO NOT use the "race" coils like the Mopar P3690560 race coil.
An Accel 140001 coil with a .5 to .8 Ohm ballast resistor is what was recommended for the Gold box up to 6000 RPM and the P3690732 voltage regulator.

Mopar used to always say if you went to electronic ign in a points style car to also go to electronic regulator. I believe they felt the arching at the mechanical regulator points could cause problems with electronic ign. But I have seen some run electronic ign and still use the mechanical regulator and run fine. I also believe they use to say dont run the chrome ECU box on the street for more then 1/2 hr but I know many running them all the time. Ron
 
Guess I'll stick with the Mopar recommendations on this one (which I sure don't always do). Ya my understanding was/is that the arching or instability of the mechanical regulators bothered the ECU transistor.
 
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