74 Charger Headlight Wiring Question

[hunterrocks24]

Alright guys so here's my question today. I am a newbie when it comes to anything electrical so sorry in advance as I am still learning. I have purchased LED style lights with low, high, DRL, and turn signal in one unit. Below I have copied a link for the wiring diagram.

My plan was to have the lows remain the same 3 prong light, but for the high light its a factory 2 prong light. The new one is a 3 prong so my guess is to take the positive and connect it to the high and low on the light. Therefore when the high switch is activated the whole light will just come on. For the DRL I was thinking of wiring it to the park light but doesn't the park light also flash? If this is the case would I wire the DRL and the Turn signal to the park light?

And the final question. The new lights are rated at 80W@high beam and 60W@low beam. Would my splicing overload the wires via amps/watts causing the wires to heat/melt? I am unsure of the factory gauge as the diagram doesn't have any marking for this.

Thank you in advance for the help!

http://www.retrorarities.com/images/73-74ChargerSchematics.pdf

 

[70chall440]

Not sure this will answer your question but most aftermarket lights are all 3 prong and can be used as a low or high beam. In other words in a 4 headlight configuration you would just plug the new lights in using the applicable connectors and not worry about 2 or 3 prongs.

Yes your parking lights are also your turn signals and connected as such.

 

[451Mopar]

Have a link to the aftermarket light instructions?

 

[hunterrocks24]

Have a link to the aftermarket light instructions?

Didn't come with any instructions. I asked the seller yesterday for some diagrams so I can make sure I set them up right. They have a 3 prong on the back, single lead for the DRL, and another single lead for the Turn Signal.

 

[hunterrocks24]

Have a link to the aftermarket light instructions?

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/3d...rnsignals Installation .pdf?ver=1597162189819

Best I could find.

 

[451Mopar]

The new lights are rated at 80W@high beam and 60W@low beam. Would my splicing overload the wires via amps/watts causing the wires to heat/melt? I am unsure of the factory gauge as the diagram doesn't have any marking for this.
View attachment 1141027

Is the 80W/60W for the pair or individual? For the Headlights, run the high beam and low beam off a relay.
The "running light" could be powered by the marker lamp power if you want them to function like marker lights, or powered through a relay triggered by ignition power to use them as DRL Lights.
Because you are using more than one headlight, the left side headlight, connect the left turn signal, and right headlight, right turn signal.
It looks like everything returns through the single headlight plug ground, so make sure it is grounded good.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Why would need relays for a LED wire no matter the wattage? I don't think that wattage is really the power it draws but a referential power to the similar incandescent bulb. Just like when you get a home light where on boxes you can read being 14 Watts but lighting up like a 80 Watts lamp.

A 80 watts of power being a led light could be like a 600 watts from an incandescent lamp! Crazy!

 

[RJRENTON]

Why would need relays for a LED wire no matter the wattage? I don't think that wattage is really the power it draws but a referential power to the similar incandescent bulb. Just like when you get a home light where on boxes you can read being 14 Watts but lighting up like a 80 Watts lamp.

A 80 watts of power being a led light could be like a 600 watts from an incandescent lamp! Crazy!

INCORRECT.....wattage is the product of the amperage consumed times the voltage of the system....REGARDLESS of that that power is being used for.....a sound system or a EFI system or illumination system or arc welding.
Example: P (power or watts) = Voltage of the system (12 volts in this case) X Amps consumed by the device. LEDs by nature consume less power or watts, to provide visable light output. In order to compare incandescent light output to LED light output a common denominator must be used....like lumens or similar measurement scale. Failure to commonize to the same measurement scale will result in inaccuracies in the analysis.
BOB RENTON

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Damn! This is amazing.

I KNOW WHAT A WATT IS! ALSO A LUMEN! i work as a sound and light tech!!!

but I meant THIS

14W=
120W

Now tell that to Phillips

is just a REFERENCE rate used for comparison with incandescent bulbs for commercial purpouse to give an idea to the ppl.

So maybe the given rate for the headlights is THE “REFERENTIAL” Wattage for regular ppl who doesn’t understand that kind of stuff but just got the wattage idea from a regular bulb!

 

[451Mopar]

Just using the numbers the OP posted. Besides, I like running relays for the Headlights.
Mine are the Hella Vision Plus Conversion Headlights.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002850811

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Sure, those are designed for halogens, which usually are adviced to be used with relays, but theoretically LEDs wouldn't need that based on the real load they should suck. Installing LEDs with same incandescent load request wouldn't make any sense to the conversion except if you want to keep ships out of the coast rocks LOL.