Upgrade or OE What would you do?

[Hemi2Much]

1966 Dodge Coronet 440 426 Hemi. 9500 original miles, One owner ( Other than myself )
Former drag car from new and has been sitting up since @ 1970
The engine is a warranty replacement 1967 block ( Being rebuilt now )
Original 727 Hemi Transmission ( also being built now )
Not doing a full restoration on the car more of a survivor-type restoration.
When I got the car there were quite a few parts missing and I wanted to know what the general consensus is on replacement parts and upgrades.
Parts that I'm missing and need to find/replace.
Alternator
Radiator & Fan Shroud
Distributor & Coil
Starter
Manifolds
Plans for the car: Drive and show the car and I would like to get the car back to as close as possible to original as possible. When I broke the engine down it had 12:1 pistons in it
I'm going back to stock 10.25:1 pistons bored .30 over.
I have the dual points Roto Faze distributor, Mallory Mark II Voltmaster coil, and headers that he was running on the car in Dragstrip form.
Should I replace these with OE parts?
Also what about replacement parts like Alternator and starter?
And what about upgrades to things like brakes, upgraded to dual-chamber instead of the factory single chamber master cylinder. And upgrade from a factory radiator to an aluminum radiator or locate an OE radiator?
I'm just trying to get a general consensus on what most of you would do when it comes to replacement parts and OE vs upgrades.
Thanks, Joe

 

[F4R/T]

I would swap to the dual pot master for sure, oem radiator will be fine just call glen ray. As far as the items needed to screw it back together .. it’s all out there now it’s just going to cost more.. Build it! Aftermarket Period correct parts are cool in my book, run them until you decide or can spend the dough on the correct parts... just my opinion , best of luck, keep us posted!
That is one cool car!

 

[GetX'd]

I may not be the best judge - opinions will vary greatly. I can tell you with my GTX which was pretty stock OE when I bought it from the original owner. I had the car for many decades - 3 of them stored causing expected deterioration. I for myself didn’t care so much about going thru the whole OE thing and decided I wanted to do what I wanted to do. So that’s what I did. Never gave it a second thought and while it was largely OE there was a fair amount that wasn’t. Had the car as I wanted it with no regrets. Ultimately you’ll have to do as I did and do what you want to do - regardless of any one else’s opinion. I expect ,most will lean toward the OE refresh. But they’ll also say what I just did.

 

[WileERobby]

Based on your posting, I'd replace with as many OE parts as feasibly possible. All the parts you mention are available from various sources.

 

[Jerry Hall]

First off, its your car. It will never be worth anymore than you make it. I like OE for the most part. I'm doing a 67 Hemi 4-speed Satellite clone my way and on a budget. As far as your list goes:
Distributor- MP Performance electronic
Brakes- Dual Pot MC & lines Disk or 11" Drums
Alternator- period correct round back
Radiator- Glenn Ray or look alike Aluminum the look alike aluminum can be bought for as little as $229 and with a little chassis black it will look and perform as stock.
Manifolds- Reproduction
Starter- Rebuilt standard Chrysler not the expensive direct drive unit unless you still have it.
This is just my opinion and most of what I will be doing on my Satellite. I already have most everything I will be using except a 66-67 Dana. The car was previously a 383 4-speed so I will be adding a lot of the US Car and Tool torque boxes, and other frame strengthening parts. The body is going to be cleaned up and the patina kept. Going for the worn street brawler look and a driver that no one will think twice about. Oh they may think get that junk off the road.

 

[Hemi2Much]

First off, its your car. It will never be worth anymore than you make it. I like OE for the most part. I'm doing a 67 Hemi 4-speed Satellite clone my way and on a budget. As far as your list goes:
Distributor- MP Performance electronic
Brakes- Dual Pot MC & lines Disk or 11" Drums
Alternator- period correct round back
Radiator- Glenn Ray or look alike Aluminum the look alike aluminum can be bought for as little as $229 and with a little chassis black it will look and perform as stock.
Manifolds- Reproduction
Starter- Rebuilt standard Chrysler not the expensive direct drive unit unless you still have it.
This is just my opinion and most of what I will be doing on my Satellite. I already have most everything I will be using except a 66-67 Dana. The car was previously a 383 4-speed so I will be adding a lot of the US Car and Tool torque boxes, and other frame strengthening parts. The body is going to be cleaned up and the patina kept. Going for the worn street brawler look and a driver that no one will think twice about. Oh they may think get that junk off the road.
View attachment 1225271

Is that original paint on your Satellite? It looks really good in the pictures.
And Thanks for the help. One question. What gear ratio would you recommend? I should be able to still use the Sure Grip that is in the car correct? Just change the ring and pinion. Check wear pattern and clearances.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Is that original paint on your Satellite? It looks really good in the pictures.
And Thanks for the help.

For the most part the paint is original, but someone spray bombed some very incorrect paint below the trim. I cut this very solid body off a Ford F250 4X4 chassis some years ago.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Is that original paint on your Satellite? It looks really good in the pictures.
And Thanks for the help. One question. What gear ratio would you recommend? I should be able to still use the Sure Grip that is in the car correct? Just change the ring and pinion. Check wear pattern and clearances.

3:54

 

[1 Wild R/T]

First off, its your car. It will never be worth anymore than you make it. I like OE for the most part. I'm doing a 67 Hemi 4-speed Satellite clone my way and on a budget. As far as your list goes:
Distributor- MP Performance electronic I would use a Prestolite Dual Point housing with a Petronix
Brakes- Dual Pot MC & lines Disk or 11" Drums. Agreed
Alternator- period correct round back Agreed
Radiator- Glenn Ray or look alike Aluminum the look alike aluminum can be bought for as little as $229 and with a little chassis black it will look and perform as stock. Agreed
Manifolds- Reproduction Agreed
Starter- Rebuilt standard Chrysler not the expensive direct drive unit unless you still have it. I Think he's gonna find the Direct drive starter is what he's gonna need, I believe the bell housing mounting is different & you can't use the gear reduction starter.....
This is just my opinion and most of what I will be doing on my Satellite. I already have most everything I will be using except a 66-67 Dana. The car was previously a 383 4-speed so I will be adding a lot of the US Car and Tool torque boxes, and other frame strengthening parts. The body is going to be cleaned up and the patina kept. Going for the worn street brawler look and a driver that no one will think twice about. Oh they may think get that junk off the road.
View attachment 1225271

 

[Jerry Hall]

I haven't looked to see what bellhousing I have with my Hemi, but there was a regular Chrysler gear reduction starter on the drivetrain when I purchased it. One of my Hemi cars has an original and the other has a period mini starter. I believe my automatic Hemi has a gear reduction starter too.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I haven't looked to see what bellhousing I have with my Hemi, but there was a regular Chrysler gear reduction starter on the drivetrain when I purchased it. One of my Hemi cars has an original and the other has a period mini starter. I believe my automatic Hemi has a gear reduction starter too.

The Auto always used the gear reduction unit... 68 & newer 4spd used the gear reduction unit... But 66-67 4spd uses a different bell housing that again I think only bolts to the direct drive starter..

@Fran Blacker

 

[Jerry Hall]

The Auto always used the gear reduction unit... 68 & newer 4spd used the gear reduction unit... But 66-67 4spd uses a different bell housing that again I think only bolts to the direct drive starter..

@Fran Blacker

I must have a later bellhousing. The drivetrain was pulled from a 70 GTX and the K frame is a 69. It was a mix match of parts anyway, but was running and driving with no problems. The owner was going with a Gen III drivetrain, so I got everything he didn't have a use for.

 

[Hemi2Much]

So since it's an Automatic I can use a gear reduction?
I don't need a direct drive. correct?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

So since it's an Automatic I can use a gear reduction?
I don't need a direct drive. correct?

Yup... Can't use a direct drive with an auto..

 

[66Satellite47]

It depends on how deep you want to get into the show thing. The obvious stuff like the round back alt is straight forward. Dual master cylinder is a safety thing, not sure what the show impact is. I'm sure you'd be happier with a Mopar electronic distrib, I still use my Hemi electronic tach drive unit from 1976, works perfect, no real maintenance. Points were and I suspect still are a PITA. Coil, again how show do you want to go. I presume the car has some sort of drag race gear? For general driving a 3.54 would be great, but depends on what differential is in the Dana. The OEM Dana's used either 3.54 or 4.10 gears, if drag racers put deeper gears in, they MAY have put in the 4 series differential, won't work with 3.54's. Or it may have a ring gear spacer and the OE differential.

 

[68BabyBlue]

I may not be the best judge - opinions will vary greatly. I can tell you with my GTX which was pretty stock OE when I bought it from the original owner. I had the car for many decades - 3 of them stored causing expected deterioration. I for myself didn’t care so much about going thru the whole OE thing and decided I wanted to do what I wanted to do. So that’s what I did. Never gave it a second thought and while it was largely OE there was a fair amount that wasn’t. Had the car as I wanted it with no regrets. Ultimately you’ll have to do as I did and do what you want to do - regardless of any one else’s opinion. I expect ,most will lean toward the OE refresh. But they’ll also say what I just did.

My '68 Hemi GTX was restored, and owned for 31 years by a gentleman who leaned toward stock, but not concours. For example, he did away with the stock dual point, and replaced it with a 1980s electronic ignition. Tires are Goodyear radials, not OEM. Original numbers matching engine was rebuilt totally stock, not even hardened valve seats. Undercarriage was painted close to stock, but more body color, rather than just overspray, but still shows some primer. Radiator, manifolds, and carbs are original. My automatic car has the 8-3/4 rear, original 3:55 was replaced with a 3:73 (I assume not an option with the Dana) I love the way the car drives, and would never change it from current form. As the others have said, ultimately it's your car, and you should do what works for you. I had two 1960s Imperials with the single pot master, and agree the dual is a good move.

 

[smallie9]

Had same situation. I wasn't going to race it so I removed all the racing stuff and replaced with as much OEM as I could get. New 3:54 gear, stock ex manifolds,went with OEM electronic ignition and upgraded dual master. I have the direct drive starter, but opted for high torque mini. Now I can drive it and enjoy it. I'm too old to have it for something to stare at, what fun is that, besides when you go out for an ice cream cone you need to get there before all the kids show up.

 

[Runcharger]

600HP in this one. I like the stock look. I like your period speed parts but if you have to buy a radiator for instance, spend the $$$ on a stock one with the correct # on it. Those $50 Chinese aluminum ones stick out like a sore thumb.

 

[Cranky]

I also like period correct racing parts so long as they are able to deal with street driving. It's something that shows the car's heritage imo. Raced since new.....that says a lot about what happened to several of them back then but how many are still wearing their racing trim? I assume it's a hard top? Don't know if the 440 was available in a 2dr post model or not...

 

[Hemi2Much]

yes,

it's a 2 dr hardtop.