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Choosing a disc conversion kit

Smokinnjokin

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Its finally time to do the manual drum to disc conversion for my ‘67 satellite, and i am having a hard time choosing, there are a lot of options.

PST and Dr Diff are both highly recommended, at this point i guess it comes down to fitment and component quality.

I have 15” scott drake front wheels, was planning on doing the largest factory style kit that will fit with a manual master cyl. Thoughts? Dr. Diff has been ‘out of stock’ for a long time, but has more options than PST.

My biggest concern is hassle free installation.
 
I like the wilwood disc brake kit. Easy to install. Don't forget to order the brake lines thats required for the kit.
 
Option 2 Purchase parts for 73-76 Dart from Rock auto calipers, rotors and get a set of Forged Spindles from same years as dart.
How does the stopping power of this route compare with the conventional kits? The calipers seem undersized at a glance but I'm not certain.
 
Something to consider in your swap. Which conversion can you get replacement parts for in under a week when there is an issue? Thats one of the benefits of going oe based conversions.
 
I used the "disc o tech" setup in the late 80's on my Challenger. Made sure I used the 11.75" rotor setup for max leverage/swept volume/stopping power. Along with that on the front, I put 11x2.5" rear drums from a wagon on the rear. Worked very well.
 
I have used Dart, Volare,E body and Cordoba on many B bodies over the years and never a problem even on 10 second bracket cars.
 
Option 2 Purchase parts for 73-76 Dart from Rock auto calipers, rotors and get a set of Forged Spindles from same years as dart.

What is correct donor car to get the master cylinder i need? 4-stud mount on '67 b-body, is there a version of raybestos MC36412 (1-1/32 bore) that comes with the 4-stud style mount?
 
For the race cars I liked to use the Mopar Performance with a I inch bore and used an adapter from the 4 bolt mounting to the 2 bolt cylinder. for a street car a 69 or so with disc should work fine. Your raybestos # crosses to MCA 88787 available at parts store like Carquest.
 
I used the "disc o tech" setup in the late 80's on my Challenger. Made sure I used the 11.75" rotor setup for max leverage/swept volume/stopping power. Along with that on the front, I put 11x2.5" rear drums from a wagon on the rear. Worked very well.
This is what I have on my hemi car perfect
 
Use a Mopar oe setup whatever you do. Did the conversion on my RR, stops on a dime.
 
If you do decide to go with non oe, like Willwood/Baer/StopTech etc, do yourself a favor and have some service items in your parts stash. Pair of rotors, caliper seal packs, pads, pair of flex lines. Replace them when your inventory gets used. Nothings a pisser like when you need something and its not available.
 
You shouldn't have to tie yourself down
with high $ after market kits. Jeep used
the same axles, and the selection is more
plentiful and a lot cheaper than Wilwood.
The brakes on my rear axle are pieced
together. Ford Explorer calipers, Chrysler
rotors. With a little homework you can find
the backing plates by matching up the bolt
patterns on the axle flanges.
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20190108_101321.jpg

Can't help much on the front as mine are Ford
with rack and pinion on custom A-arms, using
Ford PINTO spindles.
image-2.png
20190615_144810.jpg
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