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Fuel tank sender ground

mvent

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Fuel gauge stopped working couple of years ago I finally crawled under to take a look, appears sending unit is not grounded. Are all grounding straps equal or are some better quality.
TIA
 
The reproductions are all junk with no "spring" or "snap" to them and are basically cosmetic. I found my tank was getting a good ground through the tank straps and J bolts and no need for anything else. My ground strap is there for "OE correctness" and nothing else.

Put an ohm meter on it.. one lead on the tank and another on the frame. If you get 0 ohms your tank and sender are grounded to the frame.
 
owned a B Body since 1984, and have never had one with that ground strap, and all the gas gauges have worked fine.
 
Does the wire with rubber boot just " pull off " the sending unit?
 
yes
wiggle it side to side some first, the terminal is threaded.
 
I don’t trust any ground after working on semi’s for 30yrs. I put in a new tank, drilled a hole on one of the rear “holdover “ tabs on my new tank and ran it to a bumper bolt.
 
Pulled wire off sender at tank and put test light on wire, light flashed so I assume power is getting to gauge ? Going to order ground strap from Vans. Theirs are black another vendor on eBay says black ones break, any truth to that?
 
Could try a jumper wire or test lead from the body to the sender just to check status indeed your problem
 
I just replaced the tank on 1967 R/T due to seepage of factory welded seam. It has always done this on my 30 year old tank to a lesser degree. It got worse last year, and always smelled gassy. I have had an intermittently working fuel gauge for a long time, and changed the tank sending unit a while ago, with no improvement. When I had the tank out last week, I decided to run a ground wire to the body, instead of relying on that stupid factory ground strap that counts on the fuel line to frame mounting clips to complete the ground circuit. I soldered a 14 ga. wire to the one of the spring clips that I snipped off the strap and clipped it to the sender outlet. I soldered a ring terminal to the other end and secured it to the shock absorber cross member with a self tapping screw. I know it is not factory, but my gas gauge works now. If anybody is looking up under my old girl's skirts to notice that, they are just too darn close!
 
I just replaced the tank on 1967 R/T due to seepage of factory welded seam. It has always done this on my 30 year old tank to a lesser degree. It got worse last year, and always smelled gassy. I have had an intermittently working fuel gauge for a long time, and changed the tank sending unit a while ago, with no improvement. When I had the tank out last week, I decided to run a ground wire to the body, instead of relying on that stupid factory ground strap that counts on the fuel line to frame mounting clips to complete the ground circuit. I soldered a 14 ga. wire to the one of the spring clips that I snipped off the strap and clipped it to the sender outlet. I soldered a ring terminal to the other end and secured it to the shock absorber cross member with a self tapping screw. I know it is not factory, but my gas gauge works now. If anybody is looking up under my old girl's skirts to notice that, they are just too darn close!
On one of our cars I clamped a copper wire in place of the old fuel line ground clamp, worked very well.
 
Ok grounded sender wire gauge swung up to full, as said in an earlier post test light flashed. Today I clamped pair of jumper cables from sender outlet to frame then to other side of fuel line after rubber hose and gauge just moved a little. Problem must be in the tank.
 
Any chemical fix for this?

Sadly no......and be very careful with these old tanks......vapor is the enemy.........keep well ventilated ect. Sending unit may be the issue...like some have suggested. Looks like the the tank may be newer then original?
 
10 minutes to pull it out and see if the float is full of gas or the rheostat is pooched.
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