The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

[fullmetaljacket]

you going to paint it engine color ?

Yes. Race Hemi orange. Just like the steel 6 quart #971 deep sump pan on there now. No decals.

 

[Cranky]

These aluminum oil pans are not as light as one would think. Contrarily, the baffles, dams and trap doors are relatively light. It is the inner and outer weld beads to Frankenstein all the break formed panels together that are partly the culprits. The pan rail such as this one with a 3/8" thickness also contributes to the weight which in this particular case is 7lbs dry. The stamped steel one will be weighed to make comparisons sometime soon. I think it will be lighter even with the same oil capacity.

I must say it is a very well made piece as one can see. I would guess oil cooling for street driving would be improved by a small amount. Obviously, the dams and doors keep the oil pumps tummy nice and full.
Identification decals will be removed to protect the not-so-innocent.

View attachment 1799813

Do you check those welded pans for leaks using a light solvent before sticking it on the car?

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Do you check those welded pans for leaks using a light solvent before sticking it on the car?

Yes first and foremost. A solvent like gasoline or just plain water will test the seams. Also it will reveal the true oil capacity of the sump and help with adjusting the dip stick depth.
Secondly will be the pick up height from the sump floor.
The side pan rails are super straight and thick to make good compression, even though the hardware doesn't really need that much tightening. Aluminum 2024-T6 bolts and washers.

 

[Cranky]

Yes first and foremost. A solvent like gasoline or just plain water will test the seams. Also it will reveal the true oil capacity of the sump and help with adjusting the dip stick depth.
Secondly will be the pick up height from the sump floor.
The side pan rails are super straight and thick to make good compression, even though the hardware doesn't really need that much tightening. Aluminum 2024-T6 bolts and washers.

Never did like using gasoline since it's so flammable but at least you can throw it into the mower once you're done with it

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Never did like using gasoline since it's so flammable but at least you can throw it into the mower once you're done with it

.........................or finish cleaning parts. I'll most likely use water anyways. gasoline is getting a little pricey these days now.
I also have links to a military grade welding guy that can seam close anything. He's been welding all of my stuff.

 

[Cranky]

.........................or finish cleaning parts. I'll most likely use water anyways. gasoline is getting a little pricey these days now.
I also have links to a military grade welding guy that can seam close anything. He's been welding all of my stuff.

I got pretty decent with welding some years back including MIG and TIG but just don't do much anymore so every time I light up, it's like I have to 'relearn' it all again real quick. Seems like stick is the easiest to relearn since that's what I did most lol.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I got pretty decent with welding some years back including MIG and TIG but just don't do much anymore so every time I light up, it's like I have to 'relearn' it all again real quick. Seems like stick is the easiest to relearn since that's what I did most lol.

Yeah, I've never taken the steps to learn TIG or MIG. I'm probably most afraid of what I might build if I do know the craft.LOL.
Welding is an art in itself.

 

[Cranky]

Yeah, I've never taken the steps to learn TIG or MIG. I'm probably most afraid of what I might build if I do know the craft.LOL.
Welding is an art in itself.

Yup it is an art imo too. I got good then bad then good again and who knows how I am now lol. MIG is easy but TIG not so much. Might be because I never really learned how to gas weld or practiced it. I think it's very similar. Struck up my first stick 'arc' in 69 and got pretty decent with it to the point I could stick weld the trim holes on a car body without warpage or burning the hole bigger and that was using an old Lincoln 225 cracker box using an extra long positive lead. The machine I have now lets me do that with ease. Just wish I had this thing many years ago. It's outdated now but don't care except for it's big and takes up too much room.

 

[stage3]

A solvent like gasoline or just plain water

Transmission fluid will detect any and all potential leaks and not risk burning the house down..

 

[Jeff Peterson]

Just use water, at a molecular level you can’t get much smaller.

Calling @RJRENTON for validation

 

[dvw]

My pan has been hit and cracked enough times I've learned. Let it set with liquid at least 24 hrs on dry paper towel. Ask me how I know. And yes RTV will seal small cracks when it's on the car. Better yet? This last go round it had been hit pretty good. We welded what we could see. Then used soapy water on the outside. And shop air on the inside. Found a few small cracks/holes. Much quicker than waiting the 24 hours.
Doug

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Just use water, at a molecular level you can’t get much smaller.

Calling @RJRENTON for validation

Water it is. Thanks fellas.

My pan has been hit and cracked enough times I've learned. Let it set with liquid at least 24 hrs on dry paper towel. Ask me how I know. And yes RTV will seal small cracks when it's on the car. Better yet? This last go round it had been hit pretty good. We welded what we could see. Then used soapy water on the outside. And shop air on the inside. Found a few small cracks/holes. Much quicker than waiting the 24 hours.
Doug

Great ideas. Thanks guys.
I might be lucky because it is welded both on the inside and out. Double bead.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Here's the inside weld beads. The mounting rail of course has a double beefy bead on the inside and out around its perimeter.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Here's the outer beads on every inch of the outside. I'm still going to check for any leaks and such.
Each bolt hole has a slightly recessed drop machined into the mounting rails to seat the washers and bolts tightly. All mounting holes matched the threaded holes on the extra block.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Speaking of bolts, here's the supplied bolt pack with slightly longer lengths to compensate for the beefy 3/8 mounting rail. 10.80 ounces.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Here's FMJ's own supply of 2024-T4 aluminum pan bolts with slightly longer lengths and washers to compensate for the beefy rail.
Mind you, there's only ten bolts here (half the amount needed) which would amount to 5 ounces as a complete pack.

 

[dvw]

Stefs fabricates beautiful pans. Fortunately mines covered with a daiper so no one see it.
Doug

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Stefs fabricates beautiful pans. Fortunately mines covered with a daiper so no one see it.
Doug

D. You're deep undercover. LOL.
Ironically, mine will be out in the open in splendid race Hemi orange. Who am I fooling? LOL.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I remember Hemi Eddy who advertises on eBay, was selling 1965 A990 light gauge radiator core supports. All four pieces were stamped out of thinner 018-020? gauge steel. They have yet to appear again since I haven't seen them for a few years now. Any leads?

 

[Phantomx]

D. You're deep undercover. LOL.
Ironically, mine will be out in the open in splendid race Hemi orange. Who am I fooling? LOL.

You could paint the bottom 2-3 inches of the sump the same black that’s on your k member so it disappears under the car instead of looking like a neon sign hanging down.
Travis..