9.25 Pinion Yoke Upgrade

[JedIEG]

I'm heading towards a drivetrian update in my 72 Road Runner. 500hp small block, A518 transmission and a new driveshaft. My current rear is a 9.25 with 7260 u joint. I was planning to just do 1350 u-joints across the board and find a conversion u-joint from 1350 to 7260 for the stock pinion for the time being. However Im starting to think to upgrade the pinion yoke while I'm at it since that u-joint combo is hard to find.

I have not swapped pinion yokes before. Does anyone know are all 9.25 rear ends the same or what do I need to measure to get the right yoke? It's out of a later b-body if that makes any difference.

I was looking at MRE at this one and not sure if I'm missing something.
MRE - Axle Yoke

 

[Don Frelier]

I'm heading towards a drivetrian update in my 72 Road Runner. 500hp small block, A518 transmission and a new driveshaft. My current rear is a 9.25 with 7260 u joint. I was planning to just do 1350 u-joints across the board and find a conversion u-joint from 1350 to 7260 for the stock pinion for the time being. However Im starting to think to upgrade the pinion yoke while I'm at it since that u-joint combo is hard to find.

I have not swapped pinion yokes before. Does anyone know are all 9.25 rear ends the same or what do I need to measure to get the right yoke? It's out of a later b-body if that makes any difference.

I was looking at MRE at this one and not sure if I'm missing something.
MRE - Axle Yoke

I believe 9.25" rear axles have a crush sleeve for pinion pre-load.
Simply changing the yoke might cause lash issues if this is the case.

 

[JedIEG]

Would I be better off with 7290s and a 7290 to 7260 u-joint for the rear instead of trying to mess with the pinion yoke? I would be able to switch over to all 7290s at some point when I get around to disassbling the entire rear end to do a disc brake conversion.

If I did go for the 1350s, the 1974 service manual is have does have some instructions on changing the pinion seal and reassembling with the crush sleeve by measuing the torque to turn and marking the nut for return to line. I probably wouldn't even touch the seal unless it was showing signs of wear which should make a return to line the same lash.