Bypass the Amp guage in my 69 440 GTX?

[440 PHIXX]

What’s the concern with the ammeter? The Packard terminals in the charge path bulkhead connector are by far the weakest link in the original design. The earlier screw terminals pictured above are a better design but would not apply to a ’69. Better off bypassing the Packards or doing the fleet bypass.

To be clear, alternators don't "push" any amps, the amount of current flowing at any given time is determined by the current draw of the loads. On a healthy correctly loaded stock system there will be little to no current flowing through the ammeter (needle centered) while running as long as the alternator can cover all running loads.

The “push” occurs when a car has been sitting, which a lot of these cars are not being driven daily. The cranking will lower the battery charge and the newer high amperage alternators will deliver higher current than the wiring was designed to handle. Couple that with the deterioration of the bulkhead connection and things can get hot.

 

[MrDee]

The “push” occurs when a car has been sitting, which a lot of these cars are not being driven daily. The cranking will lower the battery charge and the newer high amperage alternators will deliver higher current than the wiring was designed to handle. Couple that with the deterioration of the bulkhead connection and things can get hot.

I get that, but this car is driven consistently. And I've tried charging the battery overnight to make sure the battery was at full charge. The ammeter still read high after it was started. Engine side wiring harnesses and new, the female bulk head connectors have been cleaned and the bulkhead connection was reassembled with electrical grease.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Try disconnecting the wire you added from the alternator. Then see if you get normal readings on the amp gauge. The rest of the wiring is all factory correct?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The “push” occurs when a car has been sitting, which a lot of these cars are not being driven daily. The cranking will lower the battery charge and the newer high amperage alternators will deliver higher current than the wiring was designed to handle. Couple that with the deterioration of the bulkhead connection and things can get hot.

That’s not a push by the alt, but battery sucking in the previous load lost. Amperes never are pushed in

 

[440 PHIXX]

That’s not a push by the alt, but battery sucking in the previous load lost. Amperes never are pushed in

Whatever dude… my battery doesn’t suck.

And my alternator supplies the amperage.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Supplies per a discharge battery status demand, not because alt pushes the amps. If battery is fully charged alt won’t provide any amperes but just to the car functions demands… bulbs, ignition, etc… everything under demand

 

[RJRENTON]

Adding some… if the ammeter suddenly moves with that jumper wire added, the wire COULD be possibly missing contact AND in that moment the factory wiring entering into the game with an extra failure like loads incorrectly placed… or you are close to a short.

I’m just thinking out loud but that’s really weird and needs to take action before get into a bigger issue. The advantage of the ammeter over the voltmeter is it is a real and instant stage reading gauge. Also indicates what section of the wiring could be getting in troubles depending on which side of the gauges shows reading and also depending on how you wired it, because will tell you where is running the load. If reading discharge, the extra load is on alt side, if reading charge, the extra load is on batt side… this last just as far engine is running.

Extra load can be a temporal instant short not long enough to blow the fuse link. Althought with a jumper wire added, the fuse link is also somehow being bypassed.

The ABSOLUTE BEST THING YOU SHOULD DO is say NOTHING AND DO NOTHING as all you do is express your total lack of knowledge of anything related to vehicle electrical systems........babble, babble .....don't think out loud.....what is an "instant stage reading gauge"......something you invented or just don't know the correct name?......."the wiring could be getting in troubles depending on which side of the gauges shows reading depending on how you wired it"....what does this mean??........what's a temporal instant short"?????.....another invented phrase......don't think out loud about anything........again, show us your calculations and references that support your comments....if you're able......
BOB RENTON

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

The ABSOLUTE BEST THING YOU SHOULD DO is say NOTHING AND DO NOTHING as all you do is express your total lack of knowledge of anything related to vehicle electrical systems........babble, babble .....don't think out loud.....what is an "instant stage reading gauge"......something you invented or just don't know the correct name?......."the wiring could be getting in troubles depending on which side of the gauges shows reading depending on how you wired it"....what does this mean??........what's a temporal instant short"?????.....another invented phrase......don't think out loud about anything........again, show us your calculations and references that support your comments....if you're able......
BOB RENTON

Geez. Little bit harsh don’t you think?

I have read and learned a lot from nachos posts on here, guy knows his stuff just like you.

You both have very different ways of expressing your explanation, response, reply or whatever you want to call it.

I’ve learned stuff from both of you regarding electrical, engineering and quantum mechanics lol.

 

[68BabyBlue]

I get that, but this car is driven consistently. And I've tried charging the battery overnight to make sure the battery was at full charge. The ammeter still read high after it was started. Engine side wiring harnesses and new, the female bulk head connectors have been cleaned and the bulkhead connection was reassembled with electrical grease.

I'm far from an electrical engineer, but I've owned seven GTXs, starting with a daily driver in the 70s, and Valiant slant sixes before that. The stock systems always worked fine in the old days, but many posts here accurately describe issues when running these cars decades after they were built. The bulkhead connectors have always been an issue, and preventive maintenance keeping them clean is time well spent.

In the old days when I drove these things as transportation, an excess charge reading on the ammeter was always solved with a fresh battery. When running lights and accessories, I always idled in neutral, raising my idle speed, knowing the alternator wouldn't keep up with the load at dead idle.

My recent cars have been low use show vehicles, and with that in mind, I've used the battery charger before taking them out of the garage. I ran into your excess charge readings on the ammeter until I also started priming my carb before cranking. With non ethanol gas, the current GTX will start without priming, but the extra cranking drew the battery down enough to keep the needle right of center when driving.

 

[Sinitro]

As 72RoadrunnerGTX posted previously...
The weak link are the bulkhead 0.25" tab connectors, a great solution is to eliminate these
and drill out the bulkhead connector where the large wire goes through. Install either a direct link or
a larger, straight wire such as an 8AWG or 10WG. If running additional aftermarket accessories, a complete new
heavier guage wire is recommended.

Just my $0.02...

 

[MrDee]

In a shocking turn of events, it's been determined that somewhere in my cars past, the ammeter has indeed been converted to a damn voltmeter! That explains sooo much!
Many thanks to Doug, (72RoadrunnerGTX) We've put our heads together the last few days and somehow we both had this revelation light come on at the same time...voltmeter.

 

[Crackedback]

Heresy... is there an exorcism scheduled?

Nothing wrong with having a voltmeter.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

As useless as a stand alone voltmeter is in this application, it’s absolutely worthless if it identifies itself as an ammeter with a stock ammeter face, zero references to any specific voltage numbers.

 

[MrDee]

As useless as a stand alone voltmeter is in this application, it’s absolutely worthless if it identifies itself as an ammeter with a stock ammeter face, zero references to any specific voltage numbers.

So true!

 

[RJRENTON]

Geez. Little bit harsh don’t you think?

I have read and learned a lot from nachos posts on here, guy knows his stuff just like you.

You both have very different ways of expressing your explanation, response, reply or whatever you want to call it.

I’ve learned stuff from both of you regarding electrical, engineering and quantum mechanics lol.

No... not the. Least bit harsh.....5his guy's fundamental lack knowledge of electrical systems is pathetic......and what's even more pathetic are the people that believe in what he professes as correct. Tell us exactly what you've learned and exactly what are his credentials other than to copy the work of others. The person that deserves maximum credit and detailed explanations of how the Mopar electrical system operates is: 72RoadrunnerGTX. His presentations are note worthy, accurate, and professionally done. If you have no knowledge of electrical systems, specially Mopar electrical systems believe in what 72RoadrunnerGTX presents NOT the hearsay, guesstimates, copied and totally inaccurate information presented by nacho. And that is definitely my opinion......
BOB RENTON .

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

No... not the. Least bit harsh.....5his guy's fundamental lack knowledge of electrical systems is pathetic......and what's even more pathetic are the people that believe in what he professes as correct. Tell us exactly what you've learned and exactly what are his credentials other than to copy the work of others. The person that deserves maximum credit and detailed explanations of how the Mopar electrical system operates is: 72RoadrunnerGTX. His presentations are note worthy, accurate, and professionally done. If you have no knowledge of electrical systems, specially Mopar electrical systems believe in what 72RoadrunnerGTX presents NOT the hearsay, guesstimates, copied and totally inaccurate information presented by nacho. And that is definitely my opinion......
BOB RENTON .

Once upon a time I used to frequent other mopar sites such as moparts and dodgecharger.com.

This is one of the articles I read.
Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about

 

[LowBikeMike]

Why do the moderators allow a member to continually be degraded and harassed by another member? Do better.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Once upon a time I used to frequent other mopar sites such as moparts and dodgecharger.com.

This is one of the articles I read.
Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about

Back in 2007…before anybody posted about this as far I know. I never credited myself being my idea but floating on the MaMopar Method. Far poorer English than now, but explained how must work the system with diagrams, just like Doug has made latelly on the useful stickied thread we have now. Updating some other stuff along the thread while I was learning… however this guy still denies… this guy doesn’t advertise YET that Doug and me are talking about THE SAME!, sure Doug with more resources making videos and all…

Whatever…

 

[Canadian1968]

Back in 2007…before anybody posted about this as far I know. I never credited myself being my idea but floating on the MyMopar Method. Far poorer English than now, but explained how must work the system with diagrams, just like Doug has made latelly on the useful stickied thread we have now. Updating some other stuff along the thread while I was learning… however this guy still denies… this guy doesn’t advertise YET that Doug and me are talking about THE SAME!, sure Doug with more resources making videos and all…

Whatever…

The guy is simply delusional. I see him attacking you constantly. Picking apart your grammar , which is obviously do to English being your second language. Then he replys with a cobbled up mess, of grammar and spelling mistakes of his own.

And the absolute BEST part, turns around and praises another member who explains the EXACT same principles. Doesn't make any sense .

I personally used some of your information from back in the dodgecharger.com days. No problems since !

 

[toolmanmike]

Why do the moderators allow a member to continually be degraded and harassed by another member? Do better.

Because this is the first time I opened this thread. If there's an issue, hit the report button to alert us. We can't read every post in every thread. I am no electrical expert so I shouldn't make judgements as to who's information is correct and neither should you. We already have 2 members disagreeing here. We don't need another.