Best way to remove 4 speed trans

[Griff]

looking for best way to remove trans from 69 Roadrunner. I installed trans and engine as one unit from under car. Now, clutch went away, so I need to remove and replace clutch, pressure plate. And inspect all as well.

Thanks in advance guys

 

[Jeff Peterson]

Know anybody with a lift?

 

[Griff]

Nope, I have it up and stands high enough to almost roll completely over under car. I have a scissor trans jack from Horrible Freight I borrowed from a friend as well. I’ve already removed exhaust, shifter and rods of side, but can’t get aluminum spacer off. Already stripped 2 of those Allen bolts, so that’s staying on, lol. I took off starter as well.

 

[Griff]

Drive shaft is out as well

 

[Fran Blacker]

Have some long extensions, helps.

 

[Orig69]

The aluminum shifter pad needs to be removed to get the transmission out.

 

[Griff]

Have some long extensions, helps.

I have long extensions as well. Just pulling 4 bolts to trans ( into bell housing). It hit trans mounting area under car ( where trans support mounts to under body. Only have about 1.5 inches of slide back room for trans before in hit support on underbody. Not enough to clear trans shaft from flywheel insert bearing so I can tip down

 

[pnora]

I have long extensions as well. Just pulling 4 bolts to trans ( into bell housing). It hit trans mounting area under car ( where trans support mounts to under body. Only have about 1.5 inches of slide back room for trans before in hit support on underbody. Not enough to clear trans shaft from flywheel insert bearing so I can tip down

Did you remove the cross member?

 

[pnora]

From the FSM.
No need to remove starter. Exhaust should be ok unless you have a h-pipe, Aluminum adapter can stay on the tranny.

 

[WileE]

One at a time, replace the upper trans bolts with extension studs. Then remove the trans. The studs will act as a guide and align the trans when you re-install.

 

[oldbee]

‘Way back when’, we would remove trans support, put tailshaft on knees & pull & gently(?) drop trans on our chest. (If trans wasn’t empty your crotch got a little wet!). Yes, it was a long time ago; lot easier on a lift with 2people.

 

[Bird 426]

You shouldn't have to remove the aluminum shifter plate. When you get the trans out, take a large drift and hit the 3 plate bolts to shock them, they should come out, except for the ones you have stripped, have to weld a nut onto them.
As far as removing the trans, I always have used a floor jack. Remove the cross member and let the trans down some, you need to support the engine somehow, another floor jack or engine hoist. Then, just wiggle it out. When you reinstall it, cut the heads off 2 7/16x 2 " or so bolts. Screw them into the top 2 trans bolt holes as guides for the trans. The trans probably won't go in like hot butter, the guides will assure alignment and give you time for a break when your arms are ready to fall off. This way, the input shaft isn't trying to twist the center of the clutch disc while you are resting. Your trans jack will work too.

 

[RTDaddy]

Also back in the day you put a bottle jack under the motor to tip it down to get clearance for the tranny, it is best to remove at least the radiator shroud, (and probably the radiator) for clearance for the fan as the back of the motor drops. As stated above, real men don't use a jack, even on a Mopar. Muncies are much lighter.

 

[R413]

I have not had to remove the shifter mounting plate. Let the oil pan rest on the drag link and it will be pointing down enough for that shifter mount to clear the floor.

Be careful going back in, don't pull the trans in with bolts, you can break the bellhousing.

I just saw a post that an iron 833 4 speed weighs 110 pounds. I don't know what trans that was but it will be close for all of them A or B body ot 18 spline.

 

[Griff]

I have not had to remove the shifter mounting plate. Let the oil pan rest on the drag link and it will be pointing down enough for that shifter mount to clear the floor.

Be careful going back in, don't pull the trans in with bolts, you can break the bellhousing.

I just saw a post that an iron 833 4 speed weighs 110 pounds. I don't know what trans that was but it will be close for all of them A or B body ot 18 spline.

Yes, thank you for that comment, it is an original iron 23 spline. So, you’re saying not to unbolt motor mounts and just let engine sag. That won’t stress anything?

 

[Griff]

Also back in the day you put a bottle jack under the motor to tip it down to get clearance for the tranny, it is best to remove at least the radiator shroud, (and probably the radiator) for clearance for the fan as the back of the motor drops. As stated above, real men don't use a jack, even on a Mopar. Muncies are much lighter.

lol, thanks for the comment. Yes, my fan is right against rad, so I’ll look into that method as well. As well, then you would leave motor mounts bolted to block and k frame, and just tip front with jack?

 

[Griff]

‘Way back when’, we would remove trans support, put tailshaft on knees & pull & gently(?) drop trans on our chest. (If trans wasn’t empty your crotch got a little wet!). Yes, it was a long time ago; lot easier on a lift with 2people.

lol, nice. My old ***, that trans would bounce off my chest and send me into cardiac arrest!

 

[Griff]

From the FSM.
No need to remove starter. Exhaust should be ok unless you have a h-pipe, Aluminum adapter can stay on the tranny.

View attachment 1888812

View attachment 1888813

Ok, thank you very much for that post as well

 

[Griff]

You shouldn't have to remove the aluminum shifter plate. When you get the trans out, take a large drift and hit the 3 plate bolts to shock them, they should come out, except for the ones you have stripped, have to weld a nut onto them.
As far as removing the trans, I always have used a floor jack. Remove the cross member and let the trans down some, you need to support the engine somehow, another floor jack or engine hoist. Then, just wiggle it out. When you reinstall it, cut the heads off 2 7/16x 2 " or so bolts. Screw them into the top 2 trans bolt holes as guides for the trans. The trans probably won't go in like hot butter, the guides will assure alignment and give you time for a break when your arms are ready to fall off. This way, the input shaft isn't trying to twist the center of the clutch disc while you are resting. Your trans jack will work too.

Excellent, thanks very much

 

[Bird 426]

No, don't release the front motor mounts, the jack is to help support the rear. Yes, you can probably let the engine oil pan rest on the steering drag link. Watch the fan/shroud to radiator clearance .