• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

68 Charger Alternator not charging system possible solution?

Local time
3:34 AM
Joined
Jun 13, 2025
Messages
14
Reaction score
12
Location
Idaho
So my 68 charger is having issues with the Alternator. Just replaced it and its still not charging the system I am suspecting its the regulator however I do want to mention that my father accidently Arced the battery by tightening down the battery positive terminal so the positive touched the negative terminal very briefly would this fry any part of the system also? I want to make that aware so I don't have anything that is unsuspecting. I am getting the alternator checked tomorrow at the local auto parts store but I am curious what you guys recommend? I have never really delt with electrical issues on a Mopar so some lingo I might be unfamiliar with Just a FYI. Any help is appreciated thank you.
 
So my 68 charger is having issues with the Alternator. Just replaced it and its still not charging the system I am suspecting its the regulator however I do want to mention that my father accidently Arced the battery by tightening down the battery positive terminal so the positive touched the negative terminal very briefly would this fry any part of the system also? I want to make that aware so I don't have anything that is unsuspecting. I am getting the alternator checked tomorrow at the local auto parts store but I am curious what you guys recommend? I have never really delt with electrical issues on a Mopar so some lingo I might be unfamiliar with Just a FYI. Any help is appreciated thank you.
 
It is highly likely that your Autopart store will not disassemble the alternator to check for damaged diodes......there are 3 positive diodes and 3 negative diodes connected as a three phase full wave bridge design. The other possibility is the slip ring and/ 0r brushes are damaged, it is also unlikely that the stator windings are damaged. be pre prepared to purchase a new unit.......btw,....it is not loose /corroded bulkhead connections, bad voltage regulator grounds. Most (all) parts stores do not test alternators under ffull load and max rpm.......they'll just replace it ........now the self proclaimed experts will have other ideas.....from loose wires to bad grounds or basterdized wiring by former owners........just my opinion of course........
BOB RENTON.
 
Last edited:
I don't see how a short post to post at the battery terminals would damage anything on the car.
All the current would just go through the wrench across the battery.
The voltage out in the car would drop for a second but that shouldn't damage anything.
 
I don't see how a short post to post at the battery terminals would damage anything on the car.
All the current would just go through the wrench across the battery.
The voltage out in the car would drop for a second but that shouldn't damage anything.
Highly likely.......short circuit amps can be very destructive........even momentarily.......
BOB RENTON
 
Blew the fusible link on my car.
If the car is running, I'm guessing it was.
With the engine, ignition off etc. I don't see how a direct short at the battery terminals damages anything in the car.
I'll stick with that statement.

I didn't think of the situation where someone would work on a battery terminal with the car running.
Just not something I would ever attempt to do.
 
Probably burned your Fusible link. Check it out.
Fuse link won’t burn with a short on battery terminals. Even if it was with engine running I found really hard that could happen. MAYBE with a long time short? But still.

Aside this, with a fuse link blown, the car won’t even crank IF the electrical system is still unmodified with some weird jumper wires around.
 
If the car is running, I'm guessing it was.
With the engine, ignition off etc. I don't see how a direct short at the battery terminals damages anything in the car.
I'll stick with that statement.

I didn't think of the situation where someone would work on a battery terminal with the car running.
Just not something I would ever attempt to do.
You obviously don't understand asymmetrical short circuit analysis and how induced transients can ripple in the various loads.....ie, connected accessories. It might not be to your comprehension, but induced transients, can be of the 3rd, 5th and harmoniics can cause severe damage.....it's not as simple as a blown fuse or fusible link fixes everything......just something to think about.......
BOB RENTON
 
You obviously don't understand asymmetrical short circuit analysis and how induced transients can ripple in the various loads.....ie, connected accessories. It might not be to your comprehension, but induced transients, can be of the 3rd, 5th and harmoniics can cause severe damage.....it's not as simple as a blown fuse or fusible link fixes everything......just something to think about.......
BOB RENTON
Which devices could be damaged?
The ammeter and possibly the rectifier in the alternator.
I seriously doubt either would be.
 
Which devices could be damaged?
The ammeter and possibly the rectifier in the alternator.
I seriously doubt either would be.
You don't know that....you are just guessing..show us your proof....the "rectifier" is actually three separate positive diodes and three separate negative diodes connected as a 3 phase full wave bridge network. Each diode has a PRV limitation by design and current is limited by the combination of the stator windings impedance. It depends on which phase the fault occured and to the degree of impedance that could limit fault currect.......it's not a simple aspect......guess again.....
BOB RENTON
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top