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Gates water pump

revmaster

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I have a 69 Plymouth GTX . Took off the water pump to check the blades . 8 blade pump. Bought a new gates from rockauto. The impeller blades are about 1/4 inch shorter. The old pump looks good except for very little play on the shaft side to side. Have to push on it to see any play. Wonder if they are selling the correct pump.. the casing is the same.
 
I'm just curious as to why you removed a good working pump in the first place. And bought a new one.
 
There is a difference between a A/C pump and Non A/C. Blade size and count. Don't remember what is what.
 
I have a 69 Plymouth GTX . Took off the water pump to check the blades . 8 blade pump. Bought a new gates from rockauto. The impeller blades are about 1/4 inch shorter. The old pump looks good except for very little play on the shaft side to side. Have to push on it to see any play. Wonder if they are selling the correct pump.. the casing is the same.

Post some pictures.
I posted some pictures

IMG_20250902_075838716_HDR.jpg


IMG_20250902_075813388_HDR.jpg


IMG_20250902_075803824_HDR.jpg
 
I put a new radiator in a few months ago. Wasn't leaking but was plugged up.. Car was running good with the new radiator. Needle never moved stayed right in normal temp on the line to the far left . Then on hot days city driving came close to overheating. Checked the fan clutch. Seemed good. But spins the same whether engine is hot and just turned off or if the engine is cold and off for a day. No play. So picked up a new fan clutch. I knew flow was ok. Heat was good. But couldnt see alot of flow through the cap. And have a 180 thermostat..
 
When I drove it with new rad it would run cool. But didn't take it for long drives at the time. On the highway it was good too. But when it got to 80 outside. And city driving. The temp started going up. Highway the needle would cool back down. Didn't lose any antifreeze just a tiny bit through overflow tube....
 
So, water pump was not leaking. Did you observe the coolant flow in the radiator with the cap off after t-stat opened ?
 
Bought an aluminum water pump and housing. Put pump in housing and it wouldn't turn, put the gasket it turned. I'd be reluctant to use one with short blades.
 
That water pump you removed was the wrong one for your car.

The new one you have looks like the correct pump and should work better now.
After all your deliberation, number of blades and their diameter, just install a FLOWKOOLER pump......it will perform better, moving more coolant at a higher flow velocity than either pump you noted, resulting in optimum heat transfer. . Paint the pump the engine color and NO ONE will know.......
BOB RENTON
 
So, water pump was not leaking. Did you observe the coolant flow in the radiator with the cap off after t-stat opened ?
Yes. There was some flow . But slow. Seemed slow .no swrling just very slow. . Thought it should be a little turbulent when it was warm.. I put in a 4 row radiator with the same tanks. Thickness of rad was the same
 
I believe the real reason the original ac pumps had less blades was because the belt pulley ratios on ac cars spun the fan and pump faster than on the non ac vehicles.
 
I believe the real reason the original ac pumps had less blades was because the belt pulley ratios on ac cars spun the fan and pump faster than on the non ac vehicles.
The underlying reason is: A/C equipped vehicles run hotter and therefor require higher (faster) coolant velocity for better heat transfer efficiency. The FLOWKOOLER pump out performs either of the pumps you noted. Velocity is the key to efficient heat transfer......remember you're moving Btu/ per contained volume of coolant therefore more heat is being transferred.........
BOB RENTON
 
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Yes, Flowkooler pump for me too. I would never go back to stock.
 
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