• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

advice on front suspension options?

When I installed PST thick torsion bars and thick sway bar + Bilstein shocks, it made a world of a difference
 
I have a nice "driver" 1964 Plymouth Sport Fury. Stock 383, automatic, 3.23 rear, disc brakes all around, torque thrust wheels. Front end is mostly original and wore out. Looking for options to make even more of a pleasure to drive. I put a Hotchkis in my 69 Coronet and very happy with that, but I do not think they make one for 64 Plymouth. I am not looking for the cheapest thing out there, but also not looking to put $6-8 k into front end. Anybody have any advice for a winter project for me? Thanx, Jack.

I went the QA1 route, and have been very pleased with the quality and fitment of the entire Level 2 front suspension kit. Tubular K member, adjustable strut rods, tubular upper, and lower control arms, bigger torsion bars, and a beefy sway bar, and singular adjustable shocks. I also did away with the stock steering and went with a Borgeson kit.

IMG_5125.jpeg


IMG_2073.jpeg


IMG_1986.jpeg


IMG_1985.jpeg


IMG_1625.png


IMG_1626.png


66959989002__3017FFE4-BF3A-41A7-8701-2D6B1DAE27CF.jpeg


IMG_2069.jpeg


IMG_2073.jpeg


IMG_2074.jpeg
 
I don't disagree with much that already has been shared here, except for one aspect. I lean towards best bang for buck of an ungraded OEM TB IFS, 2 way adjustable shocks. big TB's 1"+, SFC or Torque boxes, not both, a real K member (the K member is the Pelvic bone equivalent of the chassis), big brakes, fat hollow sway bar, delrin LCA bushings, lightweight OEM unwelded LCA, etc.

However, if you want the best, highest tech, beefiest, state of the art, purpose designed IFS available today that fits your $8K budget, it's an Art Morrision set up, bar none. I have visited their shop, put my eyeballs on it, and nothing compares.
BTW, I have no dog in this fight. I own what I first suggested above, I also have a Reilly, now modified IFS.

Choose wisely.

Home Page - Art Morrison
 
Last edited:
I went the QA1 route, and have been very pleased with the quality and fitment of the entire Level 2 front suspension kit. Tubular K member, adjustable strut rods, tubular upper, and lower control arms, bigger torsion bars, and a beefy sway bar, and singular adjustable shocks. I also did away with the stock steering and went with a Borgeson kit.

View attachment 1914937

View attachment 1914938

View attachment 1914940

View attachment 1914941

View attachment 1914942

View attachment 1914943

View attachment 1914944

View attachment 1914945

View attachment 1914946

View attachment 1914947
Would you be able to weigh what all the new components weigh vs stock ones? Curious what the weight savings is?
 
1. IMO this is not an area that a lot of weight can be saved without really diminishing the structural integrity of the chassis and the IFS
2. Most previously claimed weight reductions revolved around converting to a lighter disc brake system
3. Any weight saved here is mostly below the COG and has reduced benefits, other than RAISING the COG
4. Weight savings in this area should always be after Alum intake, Alum heads, Battery relocation and FG hood, all items above COG.
5, Most everyone is "pleased" with the mods they have made, as they likely have no empirical data to challenge it, they also have no way to do a real A/B comparison performance wise other than from memory (memory about what???), and the normal human nature effects of confirmation bias, unless something breaks
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top