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Almost afraid to share another ammeter bypass question...

Coelacanth

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Since I have my instrument panel out and having read hours of threads on ammeter gauge bypasses, and seeing as my car's wiring is all fortunately intact and not full of scorchies and melties, I want to do what I can to reduce a future fire risk. I already have the battery terminal disconnect installed. I shunted the leads to the ammeter gauge as shown. What else must I do to avoid future disaster?

AmmeterBypass1.jpg
AmmeterBypass2.jpg
AmmeterBypass3.jpg
 
I have the battery terminal disconnect on my Bee and Im happy with that. You could run a wire from alt to starter relay to take load off of bulkhead if you are that worried about it. Im 60 and have had a mopar since age of 17 and had no fires. When I was younger I even did the whole Amp and kickers in my charger. My charger Im doing now will only get the disconnect. Guess Ive been Blessed with no fires.
 
As you well know from your reading, there are many opinions on this and I'm sure others would disagree... If your cars wiring is sound, insulation not crumbling, free of green corrosion leaching out at bulkhead connector other crimped connections and you have not added anything in the way of additional electrical loads, or a previous owner has not butchered the electrical system wiring, it's probably not necessary to do a bypass. I have always felt that the ammeter-alternator gauge tells a lot about what's going on with the electrical status of the car. You just need to take the time to inspect the pins in the bulkhead connector, replace as necessary and assure that the innards of the ammeter is sound and the connections to the terminals are clean and tight. I've been thru my 66 Charger throughly and have keep most everything stock with exception of installing electronic ignition, bright red LED tail lamps and Holley LED Retrobright headlamps. Cars were not meant to last as long as ours have, so you have to do things to insure all is proper and sound. I can understand why wiring changes or bypass would be necessary if you have added things that have current draw that exceeds the design parameters of the cars system as it was designed. Just my opinion, but it's yours to do whatever makes you comfortable.
 
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Thanks guys, I forgot to mention I'll be installing a voltmeter to substitute from the ammeter, which will be non-functional. Fortunately my wiring is sound, bulkhead connectors are good, and I believe the only non-stock wiring was done by myself for an aftermarket stereo and the alarm system, which I've removed all evidence of.
 
From what I see in the pictures your wires are like new.
I think you would have been fine with the original setup.
My charger is close to 140,000 miles now.
I've converted it to EFi with electric fans 11 years ago and only recently added a feed right off the alternator to a 4 fuse distribution block.
My ammeter still works.
I even have the original power pack for the electroluminescent lights but that might be replaced next spring.
 
As you well know from your reading, there are many opinions on this and I'm sure others would disagree... If your cars wiring is sound, insulation not crumbling, free of green corrosion leaching out at bulkhead connector other crimped connections and you have not added anything in the way of additional electrical loads, or a previous owner has not butchered the electrical system wiring, it's probably not necessary to do a bypass. I have always felt that the ammeter-alternator gauge tells a lot about what's going on with the electrical status of the car. You just need to take the time to inspect the pins in the bulkhead connector, replace as necessary and assure that the innards of the ammeter is sound and the connections to the terminals are clean and tight. I've been thru my 66 Charger throughly and have keep most everything stock with exception of installing electronic ignition, bright red LED tail lamps and Holley LED Retrobright headlamps. Cars were not meant to last as long as ours have, so you have to do things to insure all is proper and sound. I can understand why wiring changes or bypass would necessary if you have added things that have current draw that exceeds the design parameters of the cars system as it was designed. Just my opinion, but it's yours to do whatever makes you comfortable.
This.
 
I'd add that IF your electrical demands are not increased by adding electric fans, a bunch of lights, a powerful stereo or a series of ah-ooooo-gah! horns, the alternator and wiring may be safe as it is.
Ehrenberg has often mentioned the very same thing.
I bypassed 3 cars now but 2 of them had "seasoned" wiring and one of them is my red car where I changed to an aftermarket instrument panel.
 
I'd add that IF your electrical demands are not increased by adding electric fans, a bunch of lights, a powerful stereo or a series of ah-ooooo-gah! horns, the alternator and wiring may be safe as it is.
Exactly !! And things like LED lights and/or installing relays on your headlight circuit actually REDUCE the load on the ammeter.
 
As mentioned, stock loading-no added misplaced loading, well maintained wiring and terminations, shouldn’t be anything to worry about. The bulkhead connector Packard terminals in the charge/load distribution path are the weakest link in the original charging system not the ammeter, do the “fleet bypass” and leave the ammeter alone if there is concern. Don’t do the “shunt wire” alternator to starter relay/battery parallel bypass mentioned in post #2, circumvents all circuit protection, increases the risk of fire in the event of a short.
 
Exactly !! And things like LED lights and/or installing relays on your headlight circuit actually REDUCE the load on the ammeter.
Only if the said headlight relays secondary power is drawn from the alternator/alternator side of the ammeter, NOT the battery.
 
Thanks for all the input, guys. My wiring is in better condition than I expected, my bulkhead connectors look very good (I have all this depicted in my project thread), I no longer have a stereo or alarm system, I'm using LEDs in the dash and console and may swap in some more, and my ammeter connections look pristine, and have added the battery disconnect clamp. As you can tell from all of this, I'm paranoid about having a fire in this 55-year-old beast and want to do whatever I can to minimize the risk. I appreciate the advice.
 
Why have the voltmeter if it is going to be non functional ? Like a oil pressure gauge that doesn't work.
Hook it up and take advantage of the information that it provides. All cars/trucks with gauges use a voltmeter today.

Gallery: How to Convert an Ammeter to a Voltmeter on the Cheap - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech.
I probably could've worded that post better. I meant that the ammeter would be non-functional. The voltmeter would be replacing it, and would be functional. :)
 
Why have the voltmeter if it is going to be non functional ? Like a oil pressure gauge that doesn't work.
Hook it up and take advantage of the information that it provides. All cars/trucks with gauges use a voltmeter today.

Gallery: How to Convert an Ammeter to a Voltmeter on the Cheap - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech.
Careful with that Mopar Connection article, it promotes the parallel “shunt wire bypass” approach, just more misinformation about this charging system I’m afraid. Circuit protection for the entire vehicles unfused wiring and components is severely altered with that parallel wire run. Voltmeter vs ammeter? I’ll take the ammeter; more useful information displayed for monitoring DC charging systems. A voltmeter shows nothing more than charge/no charge, you can run an idiot light for that.
 
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