Looking to buy a front Coilover kit

[DCinkd]

I have a 1971 Satellite looking to swap to a coilover setup.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

I wanted to do one for my 74 and did a lot of research. Unfortunately for me, but good for you they stop at 72 for B bodies. This is what I would have gone with if they made it for my car.

https://qa1.net/

https://qa1.net/products/qa1-hk22-crb4-level-2-full-vehicle-handling-kit-71-72-mopar-b-body-w-shocks-0-2in-drop/

 

[dvw]

I've installed them and driven them. They're expensive, (Over $5K) not much lighter, the bump steer takes a huge spacer to straighten it out. The manual rack steering effort is very high as well. I wouldn't do it.
Doug

 

[DCinkd]

I've installed them and driven them. They're expensive, (Over $5K) not much lighter, the bump steer takes a huge spacer to straighten it out. The manual rack steering effort is very high as well. I wouldn't do it.
Doug

View attachment 1950152

View attachment 1950153

View attachment 1950155

What kit did you use?

 

[Bird 426]

I have 2 cars with manual rack and pinion. Haven't driven the Hemi Road Runner yet. I personally like the rack and pinion. You can go power rack and pinion. I have Gerst tubular, now QA 1 owns it, and has modified it to make most of it their own so no cross over between who's is who's. Some will argue design.
If you are serious about this, pm me. Prepare yourself for a lot of arguing here.

 

[DCinkd]

I have 2 cars with manual rack and pinion. Haven't driven the Hemi Road Runner yet. I personally like the rack and pinion. You can go power rack and pinion. I have Gerst tubular, now QA 1 owns it, and has modified it to make most of it their own so no cross over between who's is who's. Some will argue design.
If you are serious about this, pm me. Prepare yourself for a lot of arguing here.

You have a qa1 kit you’re wanting to sell?

 

[Bird 426]

No, I don't have QA 1 kits, mine are Gerst. They are installed in two of my street cars. dvw's looks to be QA 1.
Again, you can pm me. I'm not trying to talk you into going over to tubular, my opinion, both stock and modified suspension have their little drawbacks.

 

[Kern Dog]

People have been fooled into thinking that because it is new, it must be better.
There are some instances where the tubular systems are worth the expense. IF the owner wants a modern appearance, it makes sense. If you're drag racing and want improved clearance for the oil pan and big headers, the tubular stuff is an improvement.
The list of potential drawbacks is a long one though....
Less durable, replacement parts may be harder to find, steering geometry is often WORSE than a well tuned torsion bar setup, expensive, they have zero advantage over stock for handling when compared to a modified stock based setup.

 

[dvw]

What kit did you use?

It was a newer QA-1. I was told was their later deal copying Gerst. I haven't seen a Gerst so don't know about them. When asked about the bump steer they told me I didn't understand what I was talking about. Shortly afterwards they publish the instructions shown in post #3. It's exactly what I told them. Personnally don't like the outer tie rod hanging way down from the steering arm.
Doug

 

[Kern Dog]

I agree. A cantilevered tie rod connection was a crutch to make it fit and have less bump steer but it just looks like a huge compromise.

 

[Hemirunner]

You will lose Ackerman as well as turning radius no matter who’s kit you buy. They all go to a front steer setup. I run a first generation RMS AlterKtion. Losing the torsion bars is a huge plus, as is the additional adjustability of the caster and camber.
If your building a corner carver, couple your conversion with all of the body stiffening solutions from US Car Tool.

 

[Kern Dog]

OR skip the coil over setup entirely.
Caster and camber with stock based setups put the car on par with late model cars that handle quite well. I got 1 degree of negative camber and 8 degrees of positive caster with QA 1 upper control arms in a torsion bar system.
No need to spend six thousand dollars to handle worse.