**1970 Dodge Charger STUDENT build!!! matching numbers! (teacher posting)**

[SpartanGarage]

Hemmings picture!

 

[SpartanGarage]

Just can’t get enough of this car!


2nd pic: does anybody have a hood release pivot bolt?

 

[HawkRod]

Just can’t get enough of this car!


2nd pic: does anybody have a hood release pivot bolt?

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Post an ad in the marketplace forums. There is a section for "Wanted to Buy". I'm sure someone will have one. We have some great vendors here like @QuickBpBp

 

[Billccm]

Nice price.

 

[SpartanGarage]

Hopefully getting the top on! This thing sounds great!!!

 

[SpartanGarage]

Would you buy adjustable upper arms? More than they are now?

 

[Kern Dog]

No, I'd get a new alignment guy. Those numbers are crap. I got 4 degrees of positive caster with stock parts. That guy did a terrible job.
You can align the car yourself. See this thread:

Alignment at home and aftermarket UCAS too.

Negative caster is never desirable. Never.
The car will wander and pull side to side. I'd count on it being unsafe on the road when aligned to those specs.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Would you buy adjustable upper arms? More than they are now?

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If you are referring to tubular UCAs, yes. Makes a big difference on castor. Also a Borgeson steering box.

 

[Kern Dog]

No, you don't need them. Stock arms should still get you into a better set of numbers if the car is not raised up above a stock ride height. These steering knuckles/spindles have a built in geometry that delivers more positive camber and negative caster as the front end is higher and higher. Conversely, The lower the suspension sits, the better the alignment numbers get. I'm below stock in my ride heights both for appearance and performance.

You can get over 4 degrees of positive caster with offset upper control arm bushings.
I did.
You also want some negative camber. I have 1 full degree and 8 degrees of positive caster in the red car. The Jigsaw Charger has stock upper control arms with offset bushings and I have 5 1/2 degrees of positive caster and 3/4 degree of negative camber. Negative camber at these specs will not result in accelerated tire wear on the inside edges. Toe out will but radial tires can tolerate some negative camber without any increased wear. The slight negative camber helps the handling by keeping the outside tire closer to upright in the turns. Positive caster improves stability. The car will want to drive straight with positive caster and want to dart around with negative caster.

 

[Kern Dog]

If you are referring to tubular UCAs, yes. Makes a big difference on castor. Also a Borgeson steering box.

The Borgeson steering box has absolutely zero effect on caster, camber or toe.

 

[SpartanGarage]

No, I'd get a new alignment guy. Those numbers are crap. I got 4 degrees of positive caster with stock parts. That idiot did a terrible job.
You can align the car yourself. See this thread:

Alignment at home and aftermarket UCAS too.

Negative caster is never desirable. Never.
The car will wander and pull side to side. I'd count on it being unsafe on the road when aligned to those specs.

This is our alignment machine in our class room!

 

[Kern Dog]

I insulted you without intending to do so.
Sorry to be so rude but those numbers you settled for are terrible. They are worse than what these cars had when new. Keep in mind that NO new car has negative caster and I doubt that any have positive camber either. I was able to align my two Chargers to specs comparable to a new Challenger.
Few people run bias ply tires that these cars were built with and for which the old alignment specs were chosen.

 

[SpartanGarage]

We didn't settle. we are researching. just putting a lot of stuff together...

 

[Mr. Lee]

What a great car it has become
Someone will get a great ride.

What color is it? Is it a factory color?

 

[Kern Dog]

We didn't settle. we are researching. just putting a lot of stuff together...

Again, I'm not intentionally insulting you but I would never post those alignment numbers as work that I did. Other members post alignment sheets like that while asking why their car drives worse than before the alignment. THIS chart is a good starting point. It was written by Rick Ehrenberg, a man that knows how to make a classic Mopar steer and handle well.

The car looks beautiful. It would be a shame to leave the alignment like that where the car can't perform up to it's potential. You don't put performance tires on a car that is only safe at parking lot speeds.

 

[SpartanGarage]

Believe me it won’t be left like that! This will be running driving inspected with ice cold ac for who ever is the lucky winner! But I get to drive it first! Hopefully getting the top on soon!

 

[Kern Dog]

What a great car it has become
Someone will get a great ride.

What color is it? Is it a factory color?

The color looks like FK5, Burnt Orange Metallic. It does look nice when it is new and shiny. Newer paint formulas will help it stay shiny longer than ours did originally. The color gets to looking ratty after the shine goes away.

 

[SpartanGarage]

We attempted the top! Might have to send it out. Showed the car off!

 

[DeltaV]

Sounds great!

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[SpartanGarage]

Just installed the upper adjustable control arms and adjustable strut rod. Aiming for

-.25 ish camber
3.0 caster
total toe of 1/16th to 1/8th

Any suggestions? Hope to dial this in tomorrow!