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To add fuel to the fire, it would be cool if you had it wired into a rpm window switch. Hit a certain rpm and the door would open.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830452
Probably a bit different than my charger but Greg nailed it for my process. My tray slid just under my rear window trim, under my sail panel edges, and is held in with the back seat.
I'm assuming it's the resistor but I'll reach out to you guys first. Factory ac car but all underhood parts are gone. I just hooked up my heater lines and the core is solid. Now the conundrum, on vent, ac and max ac the blower works on high and low. Switch to heat or Def, no air. All my vacuum...
With much fear of wiping a lobe (I know it's bad juju to start and stop an engine during cam break in) I fired her back up tonight. She lit first go and ran like a champ. No chatter so I have a feeling the cam is ok.
Well, ive got the new cam in and it's 1* from the ICL on the card. That's dot to dot. Just to verify my math, my work, abd my process I went ahead and checked it with the 3 way crank gear. Each time I was sitting 1* of the 4* advance/ retard. Doug, I don't know what I did that first day but I've...
Elaborate? Also, I'm re degreeing the cam right now. Specs to follow.
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Can you elaborate on this?
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Doug, you were 100% correct. I just finished up. This time going from the lifter not the valve. Intake is 8/30 exhaust 44/10 203/213 duration.
Doug, I appreciate the help. Tdc was verified on the dampner via piston stop. Tdc was also verified before degreeing. Typo on my part it is the 942. I am not one to throw parts at an issue, I'd be interested to hear what you feel was inaccurate.
Just pulled the cam, it's an Elgin e-924p
http://www.competitionproducts.com/mobile/Elgin-Hyd-Flat-Tappet-Cam-Chry-BB-421_444-112-LC/productinfo/E942P/
The timing set was a melling s366/67