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Three boxes from left to right: Ballast resistor, horn relay, and voltage regulator.
You can remove the ballast resistor and simply join the two wires from it together. I would keep the other two boxes as-is.
Selling my lightly used Edelbrock Performer 440 intake. Used it for ~50 miles before converting to a 6 pack setup. Great low end torque, will fit any RB engine. Asking $220 + shipping from 92065.
I have TF 240s as well on my 440. The consensus seems to be there's no real advantage to cleaning them up that is worth your time + effort - they really are among the best heads you can buy for Mopar big blocks and they are made to bolt on and go.
I say run 'em as is! That's what I did at least
Classic Industries and YearOne will probably be your best bet, you might be able to find some good used ones for sale on here but these are pretty cheap for being brand new
No, it's not stock. But, neither was a 440 6 Pack in a 68 Road Runner.
I like the way both decals look so this is what I'm going with...not sure if you're trying to do a "numbers matching" resto, but it can be done!
Had to trim the bottom of the decal around the smoke to make it work.
Agree with everything said above, just finished my 440 build not too long ago. Very similar setup: stock stroke, .030 overbore, using ICON flat top forged pistons making 10.5:1 CR, Trick Flow 240s, Edelbrock Performer 440 intake, 930 CFM Holley double pumper, 1.6 Harland Sharp rockers.
My...
YearOne should carry all the parts you need. I'm not sure whether you have 5/16" line or 3/8" line so I'm listing both sending units:
5/16" line sending unit: https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/bf657
3/8" line sending unit: https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/bg920...
I pretty much swear by the DB Electrical high torque mini starter, which you can find here.
I have them in a 68 Road Runner w/ 440 long tubes, and a 69 Road Runner w/ 528 HEMI, also with long tubes. They have definitely had a lot of abuse and heat cycles and have never quit. I've had the same...
I highly recommend you try this. It takes no more than 10 minutes and it can eliminate a lot of mysteries as to why you are not getting fluid to the rears...it sounds like you have bench-bled your MC a couple times; I doubt it is the issue.
I have had 2 out of 3 of my Mopars have the brake hose...
The measurement from the "flat head" of the shaft to the part of the body that sits against the engine block is about 3.5" long for a 383/400, and about 4.25" for a 440. That will tell you what engine it is for. As far as brand goes, I'm not sure.
Does it come with a cap? With a cap I'd...
Remove the brake hose at the rear axle and check if fluid is coming through the lines from the front of the car. The rear hose commonly goes bad and can block your brake fluid
Makes sense...the taller gear will place more of a load on your drivetrain than the shorter one. Similar to how you can "lug" your engine if you try to gas it while in too low of a gear.