Recent content by multipleBs

HT413 mentioned he had an oil pressure sender leak that looked like a rear main seal problem. I had a similar deal. Installed a brass T on a short extension pipe so I could oil Indy cylinder heads (they don't oil through the normal block passage). When installing the engine the T lightly...

I like the heavy duty anti-rust that Eastwood sells. Nothing they have is cheap but this stuff is pretty good. I dries to a waxy coating that never really gets dry. If it's scratched to bare metal it can sometimes "self heal", it remains soft and sort of flows into areas where removed. It's...

The steel they were using in 76 had virtually zero rust resistance. I also have a 76. It's seen no winters (here in the salt capital of Canada, Quebec). It was well undercoated by it's original owner, but even with no salt exposure there are a few minor spots on the under body where they...

Wow, that's bad news. Time to break out the welder. Years ago such a find would really bug me, but as time goes on less things bother me. I thought you guys were salt free in Alberta?

The two main pros and cons that: these cars are an affordable way into the hobby for those priced out of the muscle car era models and have the downside of no repro body parts are absolutely true. These are both very big deals as far as viability of a late model B collection. The only point I...

Great job on the pan! I haven't seen one of these cars yet that didn't need this. Arizona and New Mexico may have a few but just about everywhere else this is an issue.

According to the Direct Connection performance book published back in the 80s stock bottom ends are safe to 6000 for an RB engine and 6300 for the B engine. Being a B engine the 400 should be safe to 6300. It's a short stroke engine but the mass of the piston and rod are quite high, but as...

Hi: ar67gtx Followed you here from the earlier thread. While you'll get many opinions on all things driveline related, I need to drop this fact, if you run the diff any significant amount of time with no preload on the pinion bearings, i.e. pinion movement noticeable by hand manipulation, it...

Doug is bang on, that is the correct procedure. By "using a fresh one" I meant a used one should never be re-used in the final install, not that you needed a new one for every trial fitting. I should have been clearer. The crush sleeve is only there to prevent excessive pinion movement under...

Both pinion depth and backlash really have to be correct for it to be quiet. Crush sleeves don't really complicate things, a fresh one should be used each time though. You're getting a good workout taking that thing out and putting it in, think of what you're saving on gym memberships.

I wouldn't condemn the gearset unless you had a perfect contact pattern, backlash at the lower end of the range and still had a lot of noise. While some gears are noisier than others, you said explicitly that it's REAL LOUD. Definitely not normal. I know you gave your guy a chance to redo his...

If you do go with Indy you need to re-check all of their machine work. Stuff goes out the door not in ready to run condition. They are pricey and for that money many assume they are getting the best. All I can say is NOT SO! Bought a set of cylinder heads from them, the guide clearances...

It's normal for the pattern to look quite narrow as there is little load on the gears when bench testing. The forces are enormous on a fully loaded gear set. I've always used the additive, in fact I find the effectiveness of the additive seems to dissipate over time resulting in some shudder...

The pattern does look a little deep, I've never set one that deep, but you need to remember that under load the pattern will tend to move up and out along the tooth so it could be OK. You need to move both adjusters to get both the right backlash and preload. Looking from the rear the left...

Either find TDC for each cylinder before testing or remove the pushrods on those cylinders. You need to make both valves are closed. Also, if pushrods and rocker arms remain in place it has to be TDC on the compression stroke not TDC on exhaust. I would do it with the rocker shaft removed...