Round 3 of GTX Rear end rebuild - gear noise

[Mike67]

That's good news if that fixes your issue I guess...I hope he is redoing it for free now that he came clean!

 

[Darthomas]

I bolted a length of perforated angle steel to the yoke and leaned on the nut a little with an 18 inch breaker bar and piece of pipe on the end without moving it. I'm kind of suspecting a bearing shell wasn't fully seated but if so I would think the pinion nut would initially move without too great an effort. I'll carry it back over to the shop guy in the morning and let him figure it out.

Since it was quiet on the drive side I have hopes that when he gets the pinion tightened back up and the backlash in spec it will be OK. I can live with a slight whine on coast - the torqueflite planetary gears whine anyway when it downshifts into lower gears. Probably drown it out at lower speed.

It's easy to put thicker shim in the front of the pinion if that's what's needed.
It wouldn't have to come apart.
You need a "yoke holder" about 2 feet long made of 3/8 or 1/4 steel to get enough torque to pull snug on the nut.
Or a hellacious big vise.
Before my father made me this tool, I got by with jamming something between the yoke and and the snubber mount,
but it was iffy.

 

[AR67GTX]

It's easy to put thicker shim in the front of the pinion if that's what's needed.
It wouldn't have to come apart.
You need a "yoke holder" about 2 feet long made of 3/8 or 1/4 steel to get enough torque to pull snug on the nut.
Or a hellacious big vise.
Before my father made me this tool, I got by with jamming something between the yoke and and the snubber mount,
but it was iffy.

What do you think about his re-using the crush sleeve with the new gear set instead of a new one?

 

[coloradodave]

Unless you asked him to do the job on the cheap, I would be pissed that he was willing to short cut your installation, possibly causing you to have to buy new gears again and not valuing your time. Unless he's family, I think I'd delete his number after he finishes re-doing your differential...JMO

 

[Darthomas]

What do you think about his re-using the crush sleeve with the new gear set instead of a new one?

Back when I beat up rear ends I don't think we had crush sleeves.
Just had to use a different spacer or more or less of a pack.
I never liked the idea of a crush sleeve,
sounds like a big savings in time, but then then might lead to situations exactly like we're discussing here.

It seemed well seated and tight, but now it's not.

I'm going to ask at work if any printing presses use anything like crush sleeves in the setup of driveshaft spiral bevel gears. I bet they don't, because when presses have a paper wrap-up or eat something that's not thin as paper,
there is some huge sudden loading on gears, and anything that can move, slip or crush will. I will post pictures of a press driveshaft later.

 

[Darthomas]

Press driveshaft with double bevel spiral tooth gear.

 

[multipleBs]

Hi: ar67gtx

Followed you here from the earlier thread. While you'll get many opinions on all things driveline related, I need to drop this fact, if you run the diff any significant amount of time with no preload on the pinion bearings, i.e. pinion movement noticeable by hand manipulation, it will for sure fail in short order. If you want to save these gears that has to be rectified. You can debate the amount of backlash and the exact shape of the pattern, but zero preload with pinion movement, and it's only a matter of time. From what I've read here so far I wouldn't trust your mechanic with this, you've given him multiple chances to fix it, it's time for someone else to look at it.

 

[AR67GTX]

I looked at my odometer and I drove it right at 10 miles. A small fraction of that time was coasting when the pinion was unloaded. I'm sure the gears themselves are OK - pretty hard to see the contact pattern, but I understand the pinion could be dicey.

He's got it apart now so he's getting this last chance. If it doesn't work I may order a complete unit from one of the differential vendors and part the case and new sure grip out in this one.

 

[moper]

Hi: ar67gtx

Followed you here from the earlier thread. While you'll get many opinions on all things driveline related, I need to drop this fact, if you run the diff any significant amount of time with no preload on the pinion bearings, i.e. pinion movement noticeable by hand manipulation, it will for sure fail in short order. If you want to save these gears that has to be rectified. You can debate the amount of backlash and the exact shape of the pattern, but zero preload with pinion movement, and it's only a matter of time. From what I've read here so far I wouldn't trust your mechanic with this, you've given him multiple chances to fix it, it's time for someone else to look at it.

x2.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I would use the crush sleeve eliminator kit. Makes the rear stronger and can be set up correctly the first time.

 

[moper]

I would use the crush sleeve eliminator kit. Makes the rear stronger and can be set up correctly the first time.

x2. I haven't used a crush sleeve in many years.

 

[AR67GTX]

It looks like the 2nd set of gears and 4th set up of the differential finally did it. I finally got around to reinstalling it this morning and going for a test drive and it sounds pretty quiet under power and on coast. Still get a little howl above 50 but I think it was there with the old differential too and is most likely tire noise from the 15-year old Mexican Coker red lines. It doesn't sound the same as the noise I was definitely getting from the differential before. Ready to call it good and move on.