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Any Solution to Dripping Rear Main??

1st step is to pinpoint the leak. Low pressure air applied to the PCV hose at the valve cover with the breathers plugged. The oil will escape at the leak point. So let's say it is the rear main. Make sure the retainer isnt cracked at the bottom of the 2 oil pan bolt holes. If so install studs with sealer. The orange seals and stock cap work fine. Place the cap up in the block with seal installed and no side seals. Now install the bolts. Did it pull the cap sideways? If so the holes in the cap need to be opened up 1 drill size and rechecked until it doesn't move. Now is the gap on the sides of the cap the same? Probably not. This is why I use RTV only in the side grooves. When the retainer fits properly it can be installed. Use a slight bead (1/32") of anerobic sealer on the retainer to block. The final step is to fill the retainer bolts with RTV. Many times the pan doesn't cover these areas. My motors do not even seep.
Doug
 
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1851379/3.html

Here's an old thread from Moparts that deals with this issue, I found it in the bookmarks that I kept for future reference. You might be able to get some ideas for the repair. Even fresh rebuilds are not immune to rear main leaks.

I just noticed the key contributor was the late great Monte Smith. Some good tips on this thread.
 
Oil pan leaks travel back and show at the back right under the rear seal. If the pan bolts have been overtightened and the rail is not flat it gets worse, if the motor has a windage tray with two gaskets its more of a problem. You can also get a leak from the metal plug in the block behind the camshaft. I had both of these problems plus an oiled clutch. I thought it was the seal but after both were fixed that took care of it. Unfortunately the trans has to come out....

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If he used a rope seal and it's leaking after 2K miles, he screwed that one up too. I use rope seals on most everything except full on race engines. They don't leak. Ever. Even on smooth cranks, at high power levels. But it is easy, if one is not familiar with doing them, to leave a problem that will leak down the road. Offsetting the ends, special retainers, special seal materials... All just snake oil.
 
If he used a rope seal and it's leaking after 2K miles, he screwed that one up too. I use rope seals on most everything except full on race engines. They don't leak. Ever. Even on smooth cranks, at high power levels. But it is easy, if one is not familiar with doing them, to leave a problem that will leak down the road. Offsetting the ends, special retainers, special seal materials... All just snake oil.

Interesting, seems there are lot of opinion on this. Are you an engine builder by trade? If so are you in SE CT?
 
I have a full time job outside anything automotive but a very extensive past in it. I'm in Columbia, so a hair north of southeast....lol. About 25 minutes from Mohegan Sun.
 
HT413 mentioned he had an oil pressure sender leak that looked like a rear main seal problem. I had a similar deal. Installed a brass T on a short extension pipe so I could oil Indy cylinder heads (they don't oil through the normal block passage). When installing the engine the T lightly bumped the firewall creating a hairline crack. After engine startup was sure it was a rear main seal (there's a tendency to assume the worst) leak. Upon a close examination I found the crack, saving a lot of unnecessary work. I can only recommend checking everything on top once again before tearing into it.
 
I have a full time job outside anything automotive but a very extensive past in it. I'm in Columbia, so a hair north of southeast....lol. About 25 minutes from Mohegan Sun.
Haha.. gotcha.
 
Was this ever solved?
 
Most times it is the rear cam plug that seeps after a rebuild. No one ever seals them properly. they think they seal like a press fit core/freeze plug. Pull the trans and take a look.
 
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