Recent content by PurpleBeeper

Keep in mind that there’s a Left & a Right caliper. It’s possible to install them on the wrong side & then the flexible hose is kinked (fyi)

Push IN on the door firmly to see if the latch turns slightly, then open normally? Otherwise, I think you’ll need some type of “slim jim” to open the lock like a 1970’s car thief

I did put a wrap of duct tape around each plug to hold the two halves together

I spent several years developing antifreeze formulas for Peak, Prestone, etc. Tap water makes your radiator corrode faster. Well water is the worst. Distilled, deionized or RO (reverse osmosis) water only cost $1/gallon. Use good water

Update - it was a loose wire at one of the “multi-plugs” at the bottom of the steering column. I pushed the wires in on both sides of each plug and problem solved

I've got a 440 in a 70 Road Runner which I converted to electronic ignition. It has the Mopar Performance distributor (& MSD box, no ballast resistor). I had a minor (thank God!) engine fire that melted the distributor pickup wires and plug. I need to replace the ignition pickup inside the...

Yep…just use organic vapor cartridges and seal the mask up inside a zip lock bag when not in use.

I don’t think there’s a special spring for air grabbers. Your original springs are probably just “tired”

Pop the metal connectors themselves back out of the plastic plug, wire brush and electrical cleaner, & slide the clean metal connectors back in the plastic plug….or el cheapo way….scratch up the inside of the connector with a safety pin, spray with electrical cleaner (safety glasses!) and repeat.

Basically, you pull out the “open” center section and install the “sure grip” center section using sure grip rear end lube and you’re done. Any of the 3 types of center sections will work. I’ve had very good luck just installing used sure grip center sections

For an inline “booster pump” like that, I would suggest you try to mount it inside the passenger frame rail and splice into the stock fuel line. Closer to the tank (back of car) the better

Normally, the gauge cluster is removed first, then the dimmer switch is removed from the back. The steering column needs to be unbolted/lowered to get the gauge cluster out (& steering wheel removed)

Dang. I would be tempted to just remove the grill to put the cam in. The rest is bolt-on

The sludge looks like casting sand

I soldered mine to a short piece of wire, drilled a hole on the rear shock cross brace & grounded it right there