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1. What’s important is spring pressure closed & spring pressure open.
2. That’s not a shim, it’s part of the vave guide.
3. If the cam is really unknown, you’re better off with a stiffer spring. Too stiff wears out cams fast, but too weak can cost you an engine
4. Double check for spring “bind”...
Pnora is right. “Somewhere” in one of those yellow wires there’s a bare spot touching metal of the car (or melted & crossed with another wire). That makes the circuit complete & the bulbs light up. If you were desperate to turn them off, you could disconnect the 12V going into the pink wire
Yes, you would need a new intake manifold gasket (some people reuse them). Honestly, I think your 383 4-barrel intake is just fine & I would suggest only changing the carburetor. Either the 600 cfm Edelbrock as mentioned or a 600 cfm Holley carburetor, either one. Then, you’d only need a...
Congratulations & good luck! “IF” you want to paint the motor, now is the time. I suggest you leave the motor mounts a little bit loose….not wobbly, not tight, slightly loose. Your dowel pins are just fine
Hmmm….my 70 convertible rear bulbs have pink/yellow. My pink is always 12v & yellow is ground (normally not connected) and then it gets grounded (turning on the lights) when the driver’s door is opened. The door-closed button (yellow wire) “popping out” completes the ground connection. (Hope...
The factory service manual is free online. In general, you need FRESH gasoline, spark at the spark plugs and an engine “basically” in one piece. It also helps A LOT to know why the car was parked??? (eg bad brakes, bad engine, bad transmission, etc)
I’m not sure if you “need” the ballast resistor??? I’ve seen guys modify a ballast resistor from the back so it no longer functions….(eg remove the resistor and put in a thick wire). It’s “looks” stock….but your car is a ‘70 anyway