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11 3 drums

magnumdart

magnumdart

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Anyone ever have difficulty with new after market drums that hit the backing plate when wheel is torqued on? They are tight enough that the wheel will not turn. I'm thinking that a little more clearance, about half the thickness of a dime, maybe even less and they would be fine. What's the easy or best fix for this? Shim on axle? Turn on a lathe? Take a little off the backing plate? I was thinking maybe even new hub bearings might take up enough of the slack to give the drum some clearance, although mine seem to be fine.
 
The drums are expendable. I would clearance them instead of anything else. I am sure they are Chinese drums, and are not exactly the same.
 
Where were they sourced?
 
Sorry. I should be a little more specific. They came from Car Quest or whatever, I'm sure Chinese. Maybe Auto Zone, I'm not at the shop now so I'm not sure. They are for the front brakes, HD or police type, '68 Charger. I think taking the drums down would be best. I can shim them till they clear a little, then measure the shims and cut them down that amount. One thing after another. Will it ever end?
 
You should be able to mill off a little with a brake lathe.
 
Thanks for all the replies. This is what I did:
.075 off the outer rim which helped to clear the upper ball joint
.075 off the inner rim which now clears the backing plate
increased the finished surface width by .125 so the drum clears the frame of the shoe
 
magnumdart said:
Thanks for all the replies. This is what I did:
.075 off the outer rim which helped to clear the upper ball joint
.075 off the inner rim which now clears the backing plate
increased the finished surface width by .125 so the drum clears the frame of the shoe
Click to expand...


By milling is it possible that the drums becomes out of round, would that throw the tire slightly out of balance ? ...
 
I don't know how well balanced the drums are, I'll find out soon enough. We just took material off the two outer rims so when the wheel is torqued on the drum doesn't hit the backing plate and the outer edge doesn't spin so close to the upper ball joint. The friction surface of the drum was just extended a little toward the hub, the shoes won't ride on that part but the frame of the shoe won't bottom out against the hub. Hope this clears it a little or I may have to take pics. Basically we just did what the machinist should have done in the first place.
 
Frist thing, did the new drums come with new hubs? The true 11x3 hubs are different from the 10" drums. I say about .120" further away from the backing plate , just enough to lock every thing up. You may just have a set of 10" hubs. They look almost the same with just your eyes.
 
66chargerpat said:
Frist thing, did the new drums come with new hubs? The true 11x3 hubs are different from the 10" drums. I say about .120" further away from the backing plate , just enough to lock every thing up. You may just have a set of 10" hubs. They look almost the same with just your eyes.
Click to expand...

This is a great point. Until now I hadn't considered it, and it is odd the numbers are so close. I just got done dismantling the right front and since the lugs were swaged in I know it to be matched for 11". Since I already cut both drums I may never know. I guess I could try the original drum from the right on the left to see if it hangs up. Also now that the three inch shoes are on the right side I could try the old drum from that side to see if it drags. I'll see if I can measure the hubs. I guess what you are saying is the 10" hub would allow the drum to be closer in than an 11" hub. If I figure it out I'll let you know. At least what I have now will go together and will perform just fine.
 
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