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Wheel studs for 62 10" rear drums.

threewood

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I'm trying to replace the left rear studs on my 62 Belvedere with RH threaded studs and am having an issue with sizing. It still has the tapered 10" drums, tapered axle on a 741 8 3/4 rear end. The front are 10" as well.

After removing one stud that was broken, I found that the doorman 610-103 had a much longer shoulder than would work. The nominal size should be .5 give or take, the replacement was .715 and stuck out way too far. The knurl measured out to .620 where it was listed as .625 so it was a loose fit as well.

These were the same dormans that I used to replace the front drivers side and they were a little proud in the shoulder but fit tight and did not extend too far as to inhibit the wheel from mounting.

No one in my area has any assortment to try so I have to rely on internet parts. What has everyone else used as a replacement?
 
Thanks for the link. I went down to Napa and looked at the studs but the shoulder is the same length as what I have only the knurl was full length. Not sure what I'm going to do now.

Here is what I'm dealing with...
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The fact the the studs are "swedged" makes it a different animal to deal with.
If you cannot get a tight fitment with the new stud, you could use a spacer on the stud to draw it up tight, then weld a small bead on the back of the flange to hold them in place.

I like the conversion to the newer drums. Next thing would be replace the whole rear to a '65 or newer.

Good luck...
 
I see you added some pics.

Well the stud you have there isn't going to work. Too much shoulder. There are hundreds of stud applications with hundreds of different stud sizes. If the stud you have there is the one for the "conversion" it's going to be to long of a shoulder, needing to be so for the "slide on" drum. You need one with the measurements of your old one.

If you drove your old one out you might have opened up the original hole too. You have to use the procedure in the article to remove them. When you find the right stud it might be a little loose. Like I stated before, you could weld it in.
 
I see you added some pics.

Well the stud you have there isn't going to work. Too much shoulder. There are hundreds of stud applications with hundreds of different stud sizes. If the stud you have there is the one for the "conversion" it's going to be to long of a shoulder, needing to be so for the "slide on" drum. You need one with the measurements of your old one.

If you drove your old one out you might have opened up the original hole too. You have to use the procedure in the article to remove them. When you find the right stud it might be a little loose. Like I stated before, you could weld it in.

The old one was cut off, drilled down from the face and punched. It may have opened up while trying one with too large of a shoulder (LH nos stud I ot from a friend.) No conversion, trying to stick with stock hardware. I did find two on Dormans site that should work as long as their stated measurments are true to the product. Had to search through 14 + pages to narrow it down. When I get them I will find out and post back the results. Thanks.
 
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I changed a car over and we used moroso studs. because we could find the right knurl dia. and then cut them to lenght.
 
Success!!! Dorman 610-090 is a perfect fit. It is a stud for early 60's Jeeps, Internationals and Pontiacs. Just got it buttoned up and ready to go.

Also, while I had it on jackstands i replaced the bashed up Midas chambered muffler with a Dynomax Ultraflow Welded. Boy, it sure sounds better and meaner than it really is:)

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Here is what I used from NAPA when doing the removable drum conversion......

ND 440-1129 Rear brake drums
BK 641-1087 Lug studs 1/2-20 UNF 0.623" knurl
 
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