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And Now... A Steering Problem!

Bruzilla

Bruzilla

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Okay, I've fixed my carb problems, brake problems, exhaust problems, and electrical problems, and now I have a steering problem. There is a lot of play in the wheel. A lot. I've attached a video showing how far I can turn the wheel before feeling any resistance.

The steering was fine when I took it to the shop three years ago. The only changes made to the system were replacing the power steering pump and hoses. The 360 had a Saginaw and the 440 has a Federal. The steering works fine, there's no leaks, no odd noises, but there is all that play in the wheel. When you look at the steering "shaft" it is turning right with the steering wheel, and it looks like where the problem is at is the steering box.

Do I need to replace the box, or is there an adjustment I'm missing somewhere?

Thanks!

 
I will stand outside the car, reach through the window, turn the steering wheel back and forth while watching the tire. See how much it takes to make the tire move. Do it while the engine is running too.

Did you get rid of the pop in your exhaust?
 
khryslerkid said:
I will stand outside the car, reach through the window, turn the steering wheel back and forth while watching the tire. See how much it takes to make the tire move. Do it while the engine is running too.

Did you get rid of the pop in your exhaust?
Click to expand...
The tire starts turning right when I get to where you see the slop stop in the video.

Yes, the popping sound has been fixed. It was a too lean issue and stopped when I richened the mix. :)
 
Wow, that's a ton of play.....Check the adjustment on the adjuster on top of the box and also check the box itself if it is secured properly to the k frame.
 
There is an adjustment on top of both type of gear boxes, Manual and power. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw a 1/4 turn at a time untile you get the feel you want. Don't go too much because the steering will bind on turns. You will feel it if you go too far, just back it off. I've done this adjustment on several cars and trucks and it makes a big difference in the feel of the car.
 
RT K_line said:
There is an adjustment on top of both type of gear boxes, Manual and power. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw a 1/4 turn at a time untile you get the feel you want. Don't go too much because the steering will bind on turns. You will feel it if you go too far, just back it off. I've done this adjustment on several cars and trucks and it makes a big difference in the feel of the car.
Click to expand...

Steering needs to be straight. Turn the wheel all the way to the left, then to the right, counting the turns. Then turn the wheel back exactly half to center. The centering is important as center is a taller place to do the adjustment.
 
Bruzilla said:
Okay, I've fixed my carb problems, brake problems, exhaust problems, and electrical problems, and now I have a steering problem. There is a lot of play in the wheel. A lot. I've attached a video showing how far I can turn the wheel before feeling any resistance.

The steering was fine when I took it to the shop three years ago. The only changes made to the system were replacing the power steering pump and hoses. The 360 had a Saginaw and the 440 has a Federal. The steering works fine, there's no leaks, no odd noises, but there is all that play in the wheel. When you look at the steering "shaft" it is turning right with the steering wheel, and it looks like where the problem is at is the steering box.

Do I need to replace the box, or is there an adjustment I'm missing somewhere?

Thanks!

Click to expand...


I'd be looking at the steering pump first. Sag's were known for better pressure and flow and your box may be waiting for enough or one of those before responding. Could be lower pressure due to the pressure relief valve being lazy or malfunctioning. Second, if that's not the issue, check the entire front steering system for worn or damaged parts especially the arm at the box. Do not f*ck with box adjustments until all other causes for slop are eliminated - you seldom need to adjust P.S. steering boxes as they are always running in fluid which provides excellent lubrication. Have a helper watch the linkage as you manipulate the wheel with both the engine off and on and the front wheels off the floor. Wooble one wheel on one side and see if the other wheel follows suit and listen for strange noises or movement in the suspension as well as any binding. Disconnecting the pitman arm is the best way to check ball joints drag link, idler arm and tie rod ends as you can easily swivel the wheels left and right to check for play or binding. If all else fails, the box is probably damaged or worn internally and will require replacement. Fortunate for you these boxes were of the "one type fits many" and were used for many years in many models by Chrysler.
 
Last edited:
Holy bejesus batman... that's a lot of play. I agree that you should very carefully inspect the whole steering mechanism, but if you can visibly see that the steering shaft is moving the input shaft of the steering box & the pitman arm/drag link/wheels aren't moving, then there is slop in the steering box. That large flat-head screw & lock nut is called the "worm gear" and too tight is bad as mentioned.
 
Yea check everything. Had a steering box loosen up, on a 69 Coronet. It was 6 years old and my 55 year old aunt bought it new. She sold it to me and bought an Audi. I still had the Coronet when she got rid of the Audi.
 
There is a few things that will give you slack
Have a friend rock wheel and open hood and look and feel for slack and repair or replace as needed
 
Sounds like the box needs adjusted as everyone is pointing out. What concerns me is that it went from good to that so quick, if the adjuster had backed off then no biggie... if it's still tight I'd be investigating further to find the cause. Getting that sloppy that quick might be a sign of a failing bearing?

Power steering pumps have nothing to do with wheel slop.
 
Yatzee said:
I'd be looking at the steering pump first. Sag's were known for better pressure and flow and your box may be waiting for enough or one of those before responding. Could be lower pressure due to the pressure relief valve being lazy or malfunctioning.
Click to expand...

But would that account for all play in the wheel when the engine isn't running?
 
If there is a lot of play in the steering box when the engine isn't running, with the engine running, the pump pressure will take up some of the slack.
(hope that makes sense)

Bru, check your tie rod ends, centerlink and pitman arm for play. You need a helper to turn the wheel back and forth as you watch where the play is coming from. If it's in your steering box, follow the procedure in you service manual for adjusting it.
 
Coupler tight? Check that idler arm mount on the k frame too.
 
khryslerkid said:
If there is a lot of play in the steering box when the engine isn't running, with the engine running, the pump pressure will take up some of the slack.
(hope that makes sense)

Bru, check your tie rod ends, centerlink and pitman arm for play. You need a helper to turn the wheel back and forth as you watch where the play is coming from. If it's in your steering box, follow the procedure in you service manual for adjusting it.
Click to expand...
I replaced all the tie rod ends, ball joints, and idler arm earlier this year so I know they are all good.
 
That leaves pitman arm, coupling loose, steering box bolts loose, or remotely possible steering wheel busted inside or steering box needs adjusting/replacement.
 
747mopar said:
Sounds like the box needs adjusted as everyone is pointing out. What concerns me is that it went from good to that so quick, if the adjuster had backed off then no biggie... if it's still tight I'd be investigating further to find the cause. Getting that sloppy that quick might be a sign of a failing bearing?

Power steering pumps have nothing to do with wheel slop.
Click to expand...
As freaking sleazy as the shop owner who had the car all that time, I would not be the least bit surprised if he loosened that adjustment screw so they could charge me to fix it. This guy was robbing everyone who came through the door, and it wouldn't amaze of he did this as well. I doubt that box has been adjusted since new, and if that nut moves fairly easily I'm gonna be real suspicious.
 
Bru,

As several people have pointed out, you really need to check your entire steering system. You could be getting slop from the steering box, center link, pitman arm, tie rods, idler etc. or even from all of them.

To isolate and check the steering box, look to see how much the steering wheel moves before your pitman arm starts to move. Wiggle the steering back and forth in every increasing arcs until the pitman arm starts to wiggle. This is easiest with the wheels off the ground, and you most likely need a helper to move the wheel for you. Perfect world it moves immediately, but the reality will be several degrees. BTW, look also at the rag joint to see if there is slop.

Good luck and hope this helps!
 
73 or 74?

If 73, did you look at the puck?

Joint/coupler from box to steering column shaft.

On top of the box inside a heat shield.

If 74, it's a rubber/corded ply circle up closer to the firewall.

I thought my linkage was bad but turned out to be the puck disintegrating.

Had slop about 2 hours clock rotation, but steered fine otherwise.
 
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