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Setting odometer.

ws27

ws27

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Does anyone who has reset an odometer have any recollection of how the numbers "felt" when spinning. I'm changing a speedo and reset the odometer to the correct mileage. I noticed that when each barrel goes from 9 to 0 and trips the next one, it doesn't let go of it to continue to spin freely. I did a search and some people had problems with the odometer sticking at that point in the car. It caused the odometer to stop with an annoying clicking. I'm curious if sticking while holding in my hand is normal or did I screw something up? I tried three different ones and they are all the same. Hope this makes sense!

Thanks


Thoughts?
 
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I had a customer (back in the day) bought a speedometer from a junkyard and wanted me to change out the broken one in his car. He wanted me to set the odometer to the original one. I believe it was a GM and when I started to roll back the numbers, there was a hidden ink pad made into the unit that wiped ink over the wheels and ruined it. Whoops!
 
As long as your state isn't recording mileage on a 50 year old car your fine. NY stops after a car is 10 years old I believe. Also when getting inspections for the state they record mileage so make sure your not going backwards on that number as well. If you set it close to or over the recorded mileage it shouldn't matter. I know plenty of people that set it to zero after a full blown resto, and quite honestly at that point, whats to argue with. The whole car is new. Not one part has mileage on it anyway. That rule is as dumb as the no removal of the VIN tag from the dash when your restoring a car. They offer the rivets for a reason from ECS, yet some lose their minds when you take it off to paint the dash. Some common sense used here is all that is needed.

:thumbsup:
 
FL simply has a box on the title that selects "does" or "does not" reflect actual mileage.

Since my car is a 60,000 mile original, I make sure the "does not" box doesn't get checked by the DMV as happens sometimes with older cars.

I'm also going to have a speedometer shop verify my swap to a rallye cluster so I have documented proof that the mileage is correct.

They said I could bring both in and they would "calibrate" the replacement part, and write me a receipt with the mileage noted- $20.
 
I even thought about having my friend at the DCJR dealer do it so I could have a "dealer installed" rally cluster upgrade.
 
Thanks for all the legal advice guys. I'm sure I'm completely legal on this one. I do have all the documentation for what I'm doing. This car is extremely low mileage (11,600) I have pictures, copies of previous titles, and BOS as well. So I'm not worried about getting in trouble. I'm actually increasing the mileage on the odometer. Has anyone had any first hand experience with how stiff the dials are?

I'm just worried about putting it all together and having it getting stuck and clicking like some previous posters have talked about.
 
I’ve done this twice with perfect success. This was on a 1968. I don’t recall having any difficulties whatsoever and I took no special precautions, other than handling it gently.
 
I did this on my 69 GTX to sync the odometer on the original to the replacement before it was repaired.

I removed the clip, pulled the number wheel stack and started at the far right one and turned. I cannot remember exactly how but once the first wheel tripped the second wheel you could spin them both and so on. Works fine on my car.
 
Thanks guys, that's what I wanted to hear. The wheels do stick, but they still work.

I'll just put it back together.
 
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