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1964 pymouth fury wagon front disk brake conversion questions

Evan Frucht

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I recently bought a 64 Plymouth fury wagon. It currently has finned rear drums and somone may have changed out the front drums and used 11" rears up front instead (not sure if its just a wagon thing but the lug studs advertised for front drums on this car did not fit, but the ones avdertised for rear did?)

I am interested in switching out the front drums for a disk brake setup. what are my options,
 
I recently bought a 64 Plymouth fury wagon. It currently has finned rear drums and somone may have changed out the front drums and used 11" rears up front instead (not sure if its just a wagon thing but the lug studs advertised for front drums on this car did not fit, but the ones avdertised for rear did?)

I am interested in switching out the front drums for a disk brake setup. what are my options,
Lots of advise here. Do a search.
Mike
 
I was looking a these but when I enter in my car as 1964 Plymouth FURY it says these may or may not fit. But in the descriptions list of cars it will fit its says it will fit a 1964 belvedere, savoy, and sport fury but no mention of regular fury. I thought furys, belvederes, and savoys were basically the same car.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1962-74-Mopar-B-E-Body-Front-Disc-Brake-Kit,3793.html

I am also looking at this kit which the website says will fit my 64 fury wagon. Willwood brand and more expensive.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilw...ront-Disc-Brake-Kit-1962-72-Mopar,101315.html
 
If they will fit a Belvedere or Sport Fury they will fit yours.
 
You will most likely find your needed parts at the Fall Fling next month at Woodley.
 
You will most likely find your needed parts at the Fall Fling next month at Woodley.
What should I look for? Do you think someone will have a whole aftermarket kit? Or are you recommending I piece something together with used parts off other cars?
 
You should be able to score spindles, caliper mounts, calipers, rotors, grease caps etc. Spindles would be 70- e body, 73- a body, 74- F, M or J body. BTW, they need to be for disc brake not drum. If you have at least 15" wheels, then you can use the 11 3/4" rotors which give you more swept area/brake force. Always good to go for the max that will fit. Calipers and mounts would be for the same cars as the spindles. Larger rotors were on the cop cars and many other large bodied cars as there is a difference in them according to rotor size and caliper style.. Try to get them as a package so you are better insured it all matches up. Check out the the old Mopar Action tech article "Disc O Tech" I believe. Ehrenburg covers that quite well. The rotors you would probably want to get new, I would, calipers you could re-seal or get remans. Parts store stuff. If you get new rotors, get new bearings too. The rotors come with the races but no bearings. Don't put old bearings on new races. Get grease seals too. You for sure want the dust/spindle nut shields/caps as new ones are n/a and the a/m ones generally don't fit. Flex hoses you may need to look into a brake parts picture book if the ones for the disc application donor car are not going to work.
 
We offer a variety of disc brake conversion kits for your mopar. We have kits that will work with your stock drum brake spindles as well as kits that use the later style bearing spindles. We also offer power or manual conversion and rear disc brake kits to.

As a member of the forum you are eligible for the members discount and free shipping within the US 48 States.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Here is a link to get you started:

https://p-s-t.com/c-1176128-brakes-disc-brake-conversion.html#!year=1964||make=PLYMOUTH||model=FURY

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
 
You should be able to score spindles, caliper mounts, calipers, rotors, grease caps etc. Spindles would be 70- e body, 73- a body, 74- F, M or J body. BTW, they need to be for disc brake not drum. If you have at least 15" wheels, then you can use the 11 3/4" rotors which give you more swept area/brake force. Always good to go for the max that will fit. Calipers and mounts would be for the same cars as the spindles. Larger rotors were on the cop cars and many other large bodied cars as there is a difference in them according to rotor size and caliper style.. Try to get them as a package so you are better insured it all matches up. Check out the the old Mopar Action tech article "Disc O Tech" I believe. Ehrenburg covers that quite well. The rotors you would probably want to get new, I would, calipers you could re-seal or get remans. Parts store stuff. If you get new rotors, get new bearings too. The rotors come with the races but no bearings. Don't put old bearings on new races. Get grease seals too. You for sure want the dust/spindle nut shields/caps as new ones are n/a and the a/m ones generally don't fit. Flex hoses you may need to look into a brake parts picture book if the ones for the disc application donor car are not going to work.
You mentioned that if im going to 15" wheels i could get 11.75 rotors--- but what if that is NOT my plan. Will I have a harder time finding parts? What do I look for as far as rotors and other parts to make sure they will work with stock 14" wheels. Just got all new tires and restored the wheels, so new wheels isn't really what I want.
 
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With 14" wheels, you need to use the 10 1/2" rotor. Its not just the rotor thats the issue. With the larger unit the caliper is farther out and thats where the interference comes from. Smaller rotor, caliper is not as far out from the spindle. I had heard when I was working at an auto repair/customizing shop that 14" tires were going the way of the Dodo as their usage has dwindled over the years like 16.5's for trucks. Could be bs, but you may want to consider that for the future. If true, plan ahead and get the 15's as they are still heavily used.
 
I'm getting ready to convert to disc brakes up front but am very confused and lost a's to the best way to do it. I just bought a booster/dual master combo but now I'm thinking I may have made a mistake. It's a gm style cast iron master cylinder and both resovoirs are the same size. I've since read that on a dual master for disc brakes you need a larger resovoirs for the discs. Very confused on this. If possible I would like to use my original booster. I just saw a "bendix style" dual disc/drum master advertised for 1962-70 b bodies and it does have one larger resovoirs. I also bought a proportioning valve and 10 & 2 lb residual valves but don't know if I need them all??? Im asking because I can still return this stuff and im completely lost
 
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I just saw a "bendix style" dual disc/drum master advertised for 1962-70 b bodies and it does have one larger resovoirs.
Look over the two links rarefish posted #13. On those parts list, the right MC part #s are given. Same that I used, for my manual brakes. Bought mine new at Napa.

Yes, disc/drum brakes use a dual pot MC, the larger one for the disc. Also know, there are different part #s, for manual brakes vs power brakes.
Same size dual pot MCs are for drum all around, on 'later' set-ups, separating front from rear, in case of fluid loss somewhere in the system.
 
Look over the two links rarefish posted #13. On those parts list, the right MC part #s are given. Same that I used, for my manual brakes. Bought mine new at Napa.

Yes, disc/drum brakes use a dual pot MC, the larger one for the disc. Also know, there are different part #s, for manual brakes vs power brakes.
Same size dual pot MCs are for drum all around, on 'later' set-ups, separating front from rear, in case of fluid loss somewhere in the system.
thank you. I looked through the two posts and couldn't find any part numbers for MC, but they did say something like any 70+ aluminum master cylinder will work, but they also mentioned you needed an adapter plate with that one because it has 2 bolts that attach it to the booster instead of 4 like the original. I found this and am wondering if it would work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1962-70-Mo...Cylinder-Works-with-Power-Brakes/201255398282. also do I need both a 10lb and 2 lb residual valve IN ADDITION TO the proportioning valve ? very confused about this
 
Evan,
The residual valves are in the master cylinder discharge ports under the brass cones the lines seal to. They keep a small amount of pressure in the lines to prevent air from entering by the wheel cylinder cups.
The proportioning valve is used to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes so they won't lock up before the front.
The residual pressure in drum brakes can be higher because of the shoe return springs. Disc calipers require little to no pressure as they have no return springs.
By the way Happy New Year!
Mike
 
Evan,
The residual valves are in the master cylinder discharge ports under the brass cones the lines seal to. They keep a small amount of pressure in the lines to prevent air from entering by the wheel cylinder cups.
The proportioning valve is used to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes so they won't lock up before the front.
The residual pressure in drum brakes can be higher because of the shoe return springs. Disc calipers require little to no pressure as they have no return springs.
By the way Happy New Year!
Mike
the residual valves I bought are individual pieces and not part of the MC. they are separate parts. they are small and cylindrical with threaded ends on each side for fittings. so those are not needed as long as I buy the right disc/drum master? I read something somewhere that I needed them but now it seems they are only for when he MC is below the floor?
 
I looked through the two posts and couldn't find any part numbers for MC
Arggg. Not quite the same lists, I used. Maybe do a search for 'Disc o Matic', or go to the 62 to 65 Mopar website...it's on there, if it still works, has all the part #s.
(Looked...not much on MCs.) There's choices of ones that will work.

I'm not up on the power brake stuff, so I'll ask on the booster/MC bolt up, 2 or 4 studs. Any rate, as on my 64 SF, going with manual brakes, looked for the first year Mopar, with disc/drum brakes. 67 Coronet, either manual, or power, got the manual MC, only problem being it used smaller diameter studs. Used collars to correct that, and it slapped right on.

Keep things simple! The only separate 'valves' needed, is the distributor block, and rear adjustable proportioning valve. The right MC will work for the system, without any extras needed.
 
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