Debris in oil pan????

Relieved to hear that it is not as bad as I had anticipated. I will get a set of the Viton type seals ordered and plan on installing them right away.

Thanks to everyone for their replies and input, I can always count on the wisdom of those who have the experience and are willing to share it.

Mstone68440RR said:

Relieved to hear that it is not as bad as I had anticipated. I will get a set of the Viton type seals ordered and plan on installing them right away.

Thanks to everyone for their replies and input, I can always count on the wisdom of those who have the experience and are willing to share it.

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Don't order them until you know what size guide to fit to and the valve stem size. Because you had PC's on already, I know they are machined for positive seals, but what size? The common guide sizes are 0.500", 0.531", and 0.562" and I know you are using 5/16", 11/32", or 3/8" valve stems. Find the correct size before you order so you only have to do it once.

alsant said:

Ok a stupid question ! What does the rope do ?

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They make a gadget that you screw into the spark plug hole and use compressed air to hold the valve from dropping down, I was worried IF my crappy compressor fails or something came up and I had to leave and finish another day I would have to leave the compressor running till I got back to finish that valve, the rope is pretty fool proof lol

Knocked the porcelain out of a spark plug added a pipe nipple and added an air fitting. If leaving a valve without any thing on put a cloths pin on it. Should think if the piston was at TDC it wouldn't fall into cylinder.

threewood said:

Lol. I zoomed in expecting 100% for it to be a 10mm socket.

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looks like it's marked as a
15mm, maybe 3/8" drive socket to me

even worse bigger going down thru everything

if it even went thru the engine,
may be just using it, as scale to compare parts/debris size too

Budnicks said:

looks like it's marked as a
15mm, maybe 3/8" drive socket to me

even worse bigger going down thru everything

if it even went thru the engine,
may be just using it, as scale to compare parts/debris size too

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Yea, it is for scale. I was making a joke about how the 10mm seems to disappear more so than any other size.

threewood said:

Yea, it is for scale. I was making a joke about how the 10mm seems to disappear more so than any other size.

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I know,
I must have a dozen oddball 10mm sockets collected over time

Fran Blacker said:

Should think if the piston was at TDC it wouldn't fall into cylinder.

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If your valve falls all the way in at TDC, you may want to figure a little more quench on your next build!

I've used the compressed air in the cylinder and change the valve seals in quite a few engines, just trying to save myself time or the customer money.

Most of the time, when attaching the compressed air to the cylinder, the pressure would send the piston to the bottom. I hear different remarks about keeping the piston in the TDC position. Maybe you suppose to use less pressure?

Anyway it always worked out ok. On older, high milage engines, it's kind of a bandage for worn out valve guides, and dried out/broken seals.

Mstone68440RR said:

Relieved to hear that it is not as bad as I had anticipated. I will get a set of the Viton type seals ordered and plan on installing them right away.

Thanks to everyone for their replies and input, I can always count on the wisdom of those who have the experience and are willing to share it.

Click to expand...

Do like 69Bee stated with getting the proper measurements before ordering your seals. It wouldn't be a bad idea to try and figure out how much clearance you have under the spring retainer and the top of the valve guide. If there isn't enough room for the seal, they're not going to last.

Look under my "Photo Garage" on how to check the retainer to guide clearance. I also show how to install the seals. My heads are off of the engine but the same rules apply on the spring side.

Some seals come with the plastic tube that aids in the installation of the seal over the valve stem so they don't get torn. I show how I did this just useing a scrap piece of thin plastic. I also made a plastic tool to tap the seal in place.

You'll need a magnet, like the small telescope type or pocket model to pick the "keepers" out ot the spring retainer once you compress the spring. Packing a rag or two around the one that you are working on will help if you happen to drop one. Don't want one to fall down into the lifter valley.

Start with a easy one to get to first until you get the routine down. It will go pretty good once you figure it out. Plus we're all here to help out if you have any questions or run into any snags.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-452-heads-for-new-valve-springs-part-2.4657/