63 polara rear axle/ drum set up

Sean440 · Jun 8, 2019

Hi all
I had a rear axle nut come loose the other day, I pulled over before I lost the wheel .
Just looking at it today and was wondering if anyone has any pics of how the drum etc should look ?
Its just different to what I'm used to seeing here Australia

FU64RY · Jun 8, 2019

That's how they are.
Do the brakes while it's off because otherwise they are a SOB to get off.
You will need a special puller for the other side.

Sean440 · Jun 8, 2019

FU64RY said:
That's how they are.
Do the brakes while it's off because otherwise they are a SOB to get off.
You will need a special puller for the other side.

Thanks mate much appreciated

bigaadams · Jun 8, 2019

torque these to about 230 ft lb min. and do install your cotter pin you should also have a washer before the nut.....while one cannot find these taper axles in the factory manuals is beyond me but the carry over from earlier year application is my source for the 230 torque and the procedure below...

minimum torque is the value to align the hole in the axle to the castle nut, if slightly off torque a bit more to get the hole to clear for the pin, do not lessen the value...

matthon · Jun 8, 2019

If possible, replacing with 65 drums and different studs allows easy removal of drums without a puller.

http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html

bigaadams · Jun 8, 2019

while upgrading to the newer drums is a plus and a maintenance convenience to no end, I take exception to the linked article on how to remove the hub. At no time ever will you smack the end of the puller with the sledge hammer...(ma Mopar makes strict notes on this to prevent damage) also not shown but an added advantage to all is the install of the nut on backward to the axle flush with the axle threads and a intermediate plate of sacrifice metal to protect against swage...your car your call but in any event protect your tools and parts while doing repairs

bigaadams · Jun 8, 2019

photograph #3 in post #1 looks like the axle shaft threads are slightly mushroomed. Using the nut on backward to flush with the thread along with a piece of 1/4 aluminum will prevent this. Drill the aluminum a bit on one side for screw tip to insert into..

while they can be stubborn...remember you can do this with tire and wheel on and when a stubborn hub fails to yield, you can keep the puller on in place with heavily appied torque and roll the car and do a couple turns and this actually can persuade a hub loose. It will POP with a BANG but with the nut in place, there will be no damage.

Dipstick · Jun 8, 2019

bigaadams said:
At no time ever will you smack the end of the puller with the sledge hammer...(ma Mopar makes strict notes on this to prevent damage)

The unfortunate truth is that sometimes, even with the best puller, the drum won't come loose without a good whack on the end of the puller while under tension.

64SF · Jun 8, 2019

Dipstick said:
The unfortunate truth is that sometimes, even with the best puller, the drum won't come loose without a good whack on the end of the puller while under tension.

What he said...

bigaadams · Jun 8, 2019

as stated, it is advised against...I have never seen the need for it yet and I worked a Salisbury (European Dana) that has proven to be the toughest one ever to remove in my life time....a 62 Volvo PV544....10 foot pipe and two fat boys later...still laughing at us. Next day...after pressure left applied....one tap and bingo we have a winner. They can be cankerous for sure

Sean440 · Jun 8, 2019

Thanks for all the info guys much appreciated!

What would cause the split pin to break do you think ? Age ? I haven't had the rear wheels off yet so I'm not sure .

bigaadams · Jun 8, 2019

did it break or maybe last person working it left it off as he was as frustrated as you trying to remove the hub without success....if that is the case...thank your lucky stars he at least put the nut back on.....

Sean440 · Jun 8, 2019

bigaadams said:
did it break or maybe last person working it left it off as he was as frustrated as you trying to remove the hub without success....if that is the case...thank your lucky stars he at least put the nut back on.....[/QUOTE

There was a bit of pin left in the hubcap, but it could have been a crap pin I guess, just glad I was able to pull over in time

khryslerkid · Jun 8, 2019

Yes, there should be a washer behind the nut. The axle end does look a little distorted but as long as the nut starts on there you should be fine. You'll see in my video I'll leave the nut on when useing the puller. Just leave at least a 1/4" for the drum to move. Protects the threads leaving the nut on there.

Sean440 · Jun 9, 2019

khryslerkid said:
Yes, there should be a washer behind the nut. The axle end does look a little distorted but as long as the nut starts on there you should be fine. You'll see in my video I'll leave the nut on when useing the puller. Just leave at least a 1/4" for the drum to move. Protects the threads leaving the nut on there.

There is a washer and the thread is a bit stuffed at the end but I can get the nut on past the spilt pin hole, haven't tried tightening it up against the key yet though

Thanks mate

63 polara rear axle/ drum set up

Sean440

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FU64RY

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Sean440

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bigaadams

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matthon

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bigaadams

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Dipstick

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64SF

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