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Cams wiped need advice

aeon280

aeon280

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340 with comp thumper hydraulic 20-600-4.

#7 intake lobe and lifter wiped exhaust lifter also trashed. Appears exhaust lifter was not spinng in bore.

So far the oil in pan has some fine metal particles but no large pieces. Oil pressure was good but not sure if I should pull motor.

What would cause that exhaust lifter to not spin in the bore? It moved freely when I was removing it and cam bearings look clean and properly aligned. Should I check the valve springs? Dual coil unsure of make.

DSC_0002.JPG DSC_0003.JPG DSC_0001.JPG
 
Was this on a new install? Fresh engine? Did you break it in with inner AND outer valve springs installed? I am assuming you had a good/proper oil in the engine.
Mike
 
appears to be a failed break in. I like to run them between 2000 and 2500 rpm for at least 30 minutes using mega ZDDP oil and additive. one would hope the filter caught the debri and wasn't recirculated through the engine. there's a good chance you could toss in a new cam and lifters and it will live. if it were mine and a new build I would pull it and start over. if it was a beater motor I would just toss some new parts in it and hope it lives.
 
Yes, it's all fine metal. IMO pull engine go thru everything. Fine metal has been pumped through everything.
 
Engine was in the car when I bought it and supposedly a new build so not sure of the break in. I personally have not ran it much and since I was unsure of its credentials I put break in oil in it before running it. I am dreading pulling the motor mainly cause the damn 833 I installed last winter damn near broke my back.
 
As Jerry Hall stated pull the motor and strip completely. The bores may even be scored from all that metal. It is probably embedded in the piston skirts.
Loosing a lobe like that is a real shame but that **** is everywhere now.
 
I have a buddy who rolled the dice, two weeks later he was pulling the engine, it had metal everywhere, the second cam failed too....

If you get lucky it's a gasket set & your labor... If you don't..... :cursin:
 
Alright, thanks all. It seems the concensus is to pull it. Ugh. Here we go.
 
Did you use a jack to help install the trans? And it's not that difficult to pull the engine and trans together....
 
Are rockers stock? Appears lifter was too tight pushrod ok?
 
Last edited:
Cranky said:
Did you use a jack to help install the trans? And it's not that difficult to pull the engine and trans together....
Click to expand...

Yes I used a jack but car is on a kwik lift and jack was about 6" to short so I had to lift the last 6" and stab manually.
 
aeon280 said:
Yes I used a jack but car is on a kwik lift and jack was about 6" to short so I had to lift the last 6" and stab manually.
Click to expand...

If you do it that way again, cut the head off two 6"-8" bolts, slot the ends for a flat blade screw driver and install them in the upper two mounting holes in the bellhousing. The bolts will hold the weight of the transmission while you guide it in. Still not easy, but makes it not as hard...
 
Sounds like a pretty fresh engine, so I think it would be worth pulling and re-fresh / check everything.
I lost a lobe in a 360, and the metal caused scratching of the bores, and I don't recall the condition of the bearings, but they were replaced too.

Run the Hughes Engines Burnishing ball through the lifter bores to make sure they are round, not oval.
 
451Mopar said:
Sounds like a pretty fresh engine, so I think it would be worth pulling and re-fresh / check everything.
I lost a lobe in a 360, and the metal caused scratching of the bores, and I don't recall the condition of the bearings, but they were replaced too.

Run the Hughes Engines Burnishing ball through the lifter bores to make sure they are round, not oval.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. If I have to pull it, I'm going roller this time around. I'm going to start by dropping the pan and inspecting the main and rod bearings. If i dont see a bunch of damage to the bearings I may try and flush the system and take a brush to all the oil holes before making the final decision on what to do next. Dont really have time or money to do a full rebuild on this engine and that means I will probably sell the car because I have to get rid of this shop by September. The rent is eating up to much money with all the kids going off to college.
 
You need to solve the problem or it may occur again. Can you compress the lifter? Oil in lifter?cam bearing oil hole in line ?
 
aeon280 said:
Thanks for the advice. If I have to pull it, I'm going roller this time around. I'm going to start by dropping the pan and inspecting the main and rod bearings. If i dont see a bunch of damage to the bearings I may try and flush the system and take a brush to all the oil holes before making the final decision on what to do next. Dont really have time or money to do a full rebuild on this engine and that means I will probably sell the car because I have to get rid of this shop by September. The rent is eating up to much money with all the kids going off to college.
Click to expand...

The bearings typically don't get as much damage as the bores & piston skirts... The oil filter protected the bearings.... Not the pistons...
 
Challenger340 said:
Check V/Spring pressure as well before any re-assembly attempts.
Click to expand...


So at this point I know the heads (eddy's)are going to have to come off so I already planned to have them blown apart and then I will do a mild bench polish on them and have everything checked and clearanced. As I was disassembling the motor I ran across a couple of items that had me questioning the bonifides of the engine builder. Intake bolts were barely finger tight, water pump impeller was completely rusted off and some other minor torque issues here and there. Knowing that Eddy heads tend to come out of the box with issues its worth the cost to have them gone over prior to reassembly.
 
Ernie ingling said:
You need to solve the problem or it may occur again. Can you compress the lifter? Oil in lifter?cam bearing oil hole in line ?
Click to expand...


I already checked the lifter for functionality. Could not depress it and I disassembled it and it had oil and there was no scoring of the inner sleeve.
 
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