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Fuel pressure gauge question

pearljam724

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Why do some fuel pressure gauges have a liquid in them ? I assume it’s oil ? Is there any advantage of a gauge having this liquid or not ? I assume it’s for the purpose of preventing the needle from bouncing back and forth too fast. You know, to slow the needle down. But, i’m not sure and always wondered about that.
 
It is generally glycerine and is there to damp vibrations through the gauge.
Sometimes the needle can fall off.
They always crap out no matter what I do. I fit the gauge to test fuel pressure on the chassis dyno then take it off until I need it again.
 
It is generally glycerine and is there to damp vibrations through the gauge.
Sometimes the needle can fall off.
They always crap out no matter what I do. I fit the gauge to test fuel pressure on the chassis dyno then take it off until I need it again.
Ten four on the vibrations. I had a cheap gauge mounted on the fuel rail beside the carb and the 2 screws backed out of the gauge that holds the face on. I have to buy a new gauge because I can’t find matching screws to fix it. They’re very small, approximately 2 mm. Next one I buy. I’ll use red thread locker on those 2 screws, if it has them.
 
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It is generally glycerine and is there to damp vibrations through the gauge.
Sometimes the needle can fall off.
They always crap out no matter what I do. I fit the gauge to test fuel pressure on the chassis dyno then take it off until I need it again.
IMO....I concur.....filling the gauge case with glycerin helps to dampen the pressure pulses, from a positive displacement fuel pump. There are other methods to dampen the pressure pulses. The most common type is an inline dampener that the gauge is screwed into and inturn screwed into the supply line. This dampener device has a small internal orifice, that reduces the reaction time but not the accuracy. The pulsation can also be controlled by using a diaphragm isolator to dampen the pulsation. There are other more expensive methods....electronically. But the simplest was described is just to remove the gauge after the pressure is set.
BOB RENTON
 
IMO....I concur.....filling the gauge case with glycerin helps to dampen the pressure pulses, from a positive displacement fuel pump. There are other methods to dampen the pressure pulses. The most common type is an inline dampener that the gauge is screwed into and inturn screwed into the supply line. This dampener device has a small internal orifice, that reduces the reaction time but not the accuracy. The pulsation can also be controlled by using a diaphragm isolator to dampen the pulsation. There are other more expensive methods....electronically. But the simplest was described is just to remove the gauge after the pressure is set.
BOB RENTON
So do you sit the pressure under load or at idle. Guessing this would depend on the type pump and regulator being used.
 
So do you sit the pressure under load or at idle. Guessing this would depend on the type pump and regulator being used.
It depends on the pressure suggested by the specific carburetor manufacturer. For example, my Edlebrock is suggested to run off 6.5 pds. If it’s too little or too much the carb doesn’t spray fuel efficiently. To answer your idle question. A regulator sets the same pressure at idle or throttle input. You can add a vacuum supply line to a regulator which will allow the pressure to increase as throttle is increased. Setting it at 3.5 at idle it will increase to fuel pressure suggested as throttle is increased. But, it’s not necessary. I just set my pressure at 6.5 at idle and that is suffice. It always remains at 6.5 when no vacuum is applied. Regardless of idle or throttle input.
 
I have efi and without the fluid filled gauge it was unreadable, the needle would swing far and fast.

Bang on with the fluid filled gauge.

It is mounted on the engine, not sure if mounting off engine would make any difference, like on the cowl.
 
I have efi and without the fluid filled gauge it was unreadable, the needle would swing far and fast.

Bang on with the fluid filled gauge.

It is mounted on the engine, not sure if mounting off engine would make any difference, like on the cowl.
It would most definitely help if you mounted it somewhere more stable. But, you have a another problem. You most likely have a return fuel line to your tank. This creates erratic pressure or erratic needle movement because of your return line you most likely have. If you temporarily disconnect the return line. The needle on the gauge should be steady. You’re losing consistent fuel pressure back to your tank. It builds pressure at the regulator, then that pressure is not constant because the pressure has too far to travel and your tank is vented. That would be the case if you have a return line. I had the same problem when I added a return line. I just increased pressure about 3-4 pds more than recommended to compensate. My engine runs great and my vapor lock is cured. But, the needle will always bounce a lot. Nothing you can do about that. Unless you remove return line or install return line after gauge. But, if it’s after gauge you’re still going to have pulsating pressure to the actual carburetor.
 
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Perhaps the real issue is not pressure but the delivered volume that the fuel system must produce at maximum demand (such as nearing the end of a 1/4 mile exercise). Once this volume-pressure value is established, what is the need for knowing the pressure beyond this point? Do NASCAR drivers know what the fuel pressure is (or care)? Or Grand Prix drivers or Indy 500 drivers? I think not. As far as having the pressure gauge under the hood or remotely positioned, unless it is a recording device, showing the time and date (and reason) the "low" pressure or volume readings occurs, how can the driver or engine builder, know much to adjust the fuel system's pressure-volume relationship to prevent fuel starvation at these damand levels? A fuel pressure gauge is simply a tool; the volume-pressure curve of the fuel pump being used would also be considered a tool as well.
Fuel injection systems operate at significantly higher pressures (and volume) levels than carburetor based system. Port fuel injection systems operate at ~ 30-40 PSI, while gasoline direct injected systems (newer cars) operate at ~ 1200-1500 PSI. The volume requirements of such systems have been designed to adequately supply the maximum plus a nominal safety factor. Just thinking out loud....
BOB RENTON
 
I got tired of having fuel pressure gauges failing, mounted outside on the cowl, so I bought the autometer isolator and put the gauge inside the car. It isn't liquid filled, but because of the isolator, it's very steady.
The carb I am using is set up for a gauge mounted directly to the rear bowl, so I use a 1" liquid filled there. I can fuel pressure under the hood, and monitor going down track inside the car.
 
What purpose does gague serve?
An aftermarket 4 barrel carburetor is designed to operate properly at a specified fuel pressure rating per the manufacturer’s suggestion based on the design of that specific 4 barrel carb. The fuel pressure has to meet that suggested pressure or the fuel doesn’t burn efficiently. Most 4 barrel carburetors have a manufacturer suggested fuel pressure ranging between 5.5 to 8.5 pds. If it’s too high the fuel blows past the venturies and doesn’t burn as efficiently as it should. If the pressure is too low. The engine starves fuel. This doesn’t apply to original 2 barrel, single barrel or original 4 barrel carbs because those carburetors were designed to run on the output of that specific factory fuel pump and it’s designed fuel output. This is why you need a gauge and regulator. If you have an aftermarket 4 barrel. A gauge can also be used to monitor the condition of a mechanical / electric pump and fuel filter. Once the pressure is set.
 
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..and here I thought the pressure limit on a CARB was so you don't blow the needle and seat open before the float drops. Once the bowl is full fuel gets sucked out of it, or squirted by the accelerator pump... and the bowl is vented!
 
..and here I thought the pressure limit on a CARB was so you don't blow the needle and seat open before the float drops. Once the bowl is full fuel gets sucked out of it, or squirted by the accelerator pump... and the bowl is vented!
On an original carb and original pump, yes. But, the design of an aftermarket carburetor has different flow characteristics compared to the original carb and original pump combined. The venturies change from carb to carb. If the aftermarket carb has better flowing venturies. The fuel pressure has to meet that new designed flow and design of different venturies.
 
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